Rpmayne

I've got to change the wheel bearing on a mk2 golf this weekend. Do I just need the bearings and new hub nuts? It's only one side but I'm going to change both to save two different visits to my works press.

Manual.. think that's probably long gone. :) I'll get her to pull the trim away and have a look. Thanks.

My sisters got a mk3 cav with central locking and it's just given up. Thing is she hasn't got enough petrol to get back from work and can't open the filler. Any idea whether they have a manual way of opening it? Cheers.

How much do they go for? If they've got the build quality which I still think the Corrado is slightly lacking I would have definitely given them a look.

I never knew they existed, still think the Corrado has got the edge on the styling but with the performance and quattro I would be very tempted. http://www.fantasycars.com/sedans/html/audis2.html

Was chatting to a mate at work because he was looking at changing his tyres on a Jaguar S-type 4.0V8. He had Pirelli P6000 (225 55 R16), so I naturally said throw them away and get something decent. Thing is, apparently Jaguar worked with Pirelli to develop the P6000 'J' tyre which is only specific to this car because the normal one had a unsufficiently strong side wall for this car. The manufacturer has now said that he can't fit anything else or the insurance / warranty is invalid. I personally can't believe that an apparently uprated P6000 is the only tyre that can run on this car. Surely it's not that special. Sounds more like a stitch up between Jag and Pirelli to me. Anyone heard of this sort of thing before?

Cheers, will see what he can do.

Does anyone have an insurance poilcy where you have fixed an agreed price in case of the car being written off? I'm after insuring mine to cover for a true replacement cost, and I want the option to buy it back. Obviously got to be a reasonable premium, admiral has quoted me £500 fully comp, protected, age 26 with 5 years NCB. Their policy is to pay out market value though, which would be well under what I would pay to get another one the same.

I would go for an A3 purely because I think they look better. 1.8T (150bhp) seem really flat to me though, recon given the choice I'd have a 1.9TDi over that. You can get the 180bhp A3 Quattro Sport which may be abit more fun and still reliable. The dealer had some for around £10k, might be lucky with £7k private.

Does anyone know how to go about storing a car for a long amount of time? Thinking of taking mine off the road but don't have a garage to store it in. Any ideas on the cost of dry storage, and any precautions to keep it in the best possible condition? After driving various cars around recently I've got used to the 'A to B car' now and not really missing the VR when I think of the running vcosts. Can't run 2 cars and keep it for the weekends because of tax / insurance etc, and can't sell just yet because I've put too much into it, so would rather store it and wait until I can afford to run it again.

I just got a universal BBR star chip and didn't really notice much difference really. Maybe abit smoother but after trying before and after times there wasn't any difference. Maybe a tailored map would be better but not sure its worth the £400 unless your engine is modified.

I went to do the brakes last night and I can feel a tight spot in the rotation of the disk. Wondering whether the stub axle or disk has been bent but not sure how to check them. To recap the caliper came off with the carrier and got wedged between the inside of the wheel and the brake disk.

Maybe a moisture problem with the leads?

We're going to have to find another way of doing it, Bosch came back and said they should be running around the 4ms cycle time, not 100ms which explains the excess heat. I started out doing the panels, found the same but luckily the jobs got abit more varied since so it's not too bad. Would have liked to get into the ECU side of things but the good old VR has put me off a little. :(

That might work but the control over the injector is a relay output from a PLC so it's not really meant to switch that fast so it would burn out quickly. Really need a solid state relay to do that, and seeing that it's gravity fed it may not let any fluid through. Just been onto Bosch technical and they're going to ring me back.

I was thinking that, not sure but I remember a VAG-COM equivalent saying something like 10ms injector opening times. And as you say the pressurised fuel would probably cool better aswell. In the past we've used air solenoid systems to dose the cleaner, just surprised me to see a fuel injector used like this. Rather than being a mist though it's more of a drip.

I've been working on an assembly machine this morning which uses a bosch fuel injector to dose cleaner onto tape which is used to clean pen refills. It's been having overheating problems since being fitted by the manufacturer. Does anyone know how the fuel injectors are supposed to be operated? I thought they are oscillated at different rates to regulate the fuel and not controlled by simply holding them open for different amounts of time. The machine system is a gravity fed bottle of cleaner which goes through the injector which is turned on for 100ms every second. Thing which makes me wonder is I set the machine to give it a 2 second duty cycle and after about 5 minutes you couldn't touch the injector because it was so hot. Are they designed to be used like this? Thanks for any comments, weird question I know.

Thanks, he should be able to make one up then out of left overs he's had from his projects.

Think I'm going to change the solid pipe that's broke with new fittings, flexible hoses from body to axle and the front flexibles aswell. The rear adapter ones are braided so if I order the rest the same that's all done then. Found someone at work who restores VW campers who has a flaring tool, only a single not double flare though. Any idea what type the Corrado uses?

Abit embarrasing really but the reason I'm doing this is because the caliper managed to become detached from the carrier and wedge itself between the disk and wheel at about 45mph, luckily not faster. Result was knackard pads, kinked brake pipe (solid), cut flexible pipe, heavily modified splash guard, melted yoko (30ft skid) and heavily scored inner wheel. I've got some mk4 alloy calipers and adapter pipes already, and the compensator valve is new so the connectors should undo ok. I was hoping to take the old pipe off and get someone to fabricate a new one as VW don't sell them pre-formed. Suppose I'll know when I take that off as to whether I'll need anything else. Can I reuse the fittings onto the new pipe? Should I order the small flexible pipes between the compensator and axle?

Any ideas how difficult it is to change a rear brake pipe. It's the solid one attached to the rear beam.

By the time the top gear report comes out petrol will probably be about £1.50/litre and the thirsty VR will probably put people off. Robbing b**tards, do roughly 100 miles a week now. Dropped from about 300 during the days of finding the longest route everywhere to have a spirited drive. Thinking VW might be going the wrong way with the big cc engines like the 3.6. If you can afford to run that you may aswell buy a Porsche.

Maybe being abit too hasty, just that Richard Branson has stopped lending me money so readily and I've had to look into saving money. Unfortunately, and probably like most Corrado members, the car costs a fortune to keep to any reasonable standard. House doctor would be a brilliant idea. Keep saying if I had the money I'd send it back to Karmann and get them to build it properly this time. :2gunfire:

I'll try and upload some later on when I get home.

I've got a '94 VR6 which has had pretty much everything changed, engine has been completely rebuilt 15,000miles ago and goes very well. Thing is money's tight and at the right price I may have to let it go. It's just niggling things which are getting to me with this car. Intermittent sunroof, no automatic spoiler, rattly windows when fully down, wheels could do with being refunbed, and with petrol prices I'm just feathering it around which is a waste. What do you recon would be a reasonable price with the above problems? If all that was sorted it would be mint. It's just that I've got to draw the line. It's midnight violet VR6, black leather interior with heated seats, standard apart from rebore, gmax suspension, cross-drilled front brakes, black samcos and a milltek exhaust.