Rpmayne

To change that its effectively a clutch change to get access to it (remove gearbox, clutch / flywheel). Think 4 hours is about the going rate. Mine is leaking abit too but not overly worried, burns more oil than it's leaking and the clutch is ok.

Think you can just use hammerite and paint it on. Mines been done with that and its lasted pretty well.

I had similar problems and it turned out to be the switched feed from the alarm to the ECU had an intermittent break. When you dipped the clutch, did the engine idle?

Thanks, now to source some parts. Are GSF front wheel bearings any good?

I'm getting a grinding / squeak noise intermittently from the rotation of the front wheels, and cornering on a smooth road feels slightly juddery. Reading other posts this could be down to the wheel bearings. Also recently I'm getting a high pitch squeak from the front which isn't rotation related. How easy is it to change the front bearings? I can get access to a press. Do you recon I could take the hub and suspension off attached so I won't have to get the camber reset? Thanks.

Maybe the head gasket could have gone between a coolant channel and a cylinder so it could be burning off the coolant but would show no signs of the oil / water mixing. A compression test should show that I would have thought. Or some garages have a tester you put into the expansion tank and it can tell whether there are any exhaust gases in the coolant (by some liquid changing colour). More likely it would pressurise the coolant system and blow the expansion tank cap though, as happened on my ex's polo.

Gotcha, didn't see that post.

Thanks for that, sounding abit involved for my liking so think I'll stick to Vauxhall wheels on the crazy corsa.

Surely that can't be real... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... ename=WDVW

Thanks for the info.

I'm looking to buy some cheap alloys for the missus's 12v corsa as it needs 4 new tyres anyway and the bicycle tyres offer little grip when pushed with the mighty 3-cylinder power plant. :lol: It will hopefully help with the cornering / braking anyway. I take it the PCD is the same at 100mm but the VW offset seems to be ET35 and some of the wheels being fitted to corsa's are ET49. Would the VW ones fit? This is just to get abit more choice. Not really sure what the offset relates to. Cheers.

Yer. Probably confusing myself but sure the valve had to come off of mine. This was the point I gave up and took it down the garage for them to do. They had to remove it... with a hack saw. :roll:

Was a while ago I tried it but I think you also have to remove the whole valve as well as the spring to the beam to allow access to the main bolt holding the rear beam in place.

Try undoing the allen key (why use those?) bolts holding the rear brake compensator on before you start properly as the chances are they will be impossible to remove and you'll have to cut them and the valve off. About £80 I think. Easier to disconnect the ABS sensor cables from inside the car rather than the rear beam aswell. Top tip, get a garage to do it. My local one had no end of grief doing it so I think the money was well spent for no hassle.

Can the two types be mixed then as you bleed the brakes? If so are they different colours or something so you can tell whether the dot4 has completely gone?

It's not completely locked but is very hard to wind in compared to the one with the good seal. Think I'll be returning them then to save mucking about. The original mk3 ones are working anyway so will just leave it alone. Thanks.

Think I'll uprate the brake lines and fluid first then, and look into getting bigger disks once these have worn out / warped / shattered. Haven't had them that long. Want to keep the standard 15" speedlines ideally. Saw a Golf R32 and the front disks on that looked huge.

£50 the pair, thought they should have been usable for that money. Said they would take them back but after the faffing about sending them etc it will probably be cheaper to just recondition them. At least then I'll know they're both ok.

I recently bought some mk4 calipers mail order from a scrap yard and of them had a badly cracked piston seal, and subsequently had seized. Quite ironic really seeing I bought them so I wouldn't get that. Anyhow, can this be cured with an overhall (if so, any tips) or shall I just tie them to a brick and hand return them?

No, the speedo recons it was 160mph and the revs were a fraction off red line. I knew it was about 7mph out anyway at lower speeds, just got progressively inaccurate the faster I went.

Umm, it was a piage which I assume have no speed limits because as long as you don't get to the next kiosk too quickly you're ok. :) Roads are far better out there than here, even the milltek didn't rattle and crash as normal which was nice. Will be servicing it after that, change the oil every 5k and money has been no object unfortunately so I think its pretty well looked after. After runs like that I remember why I like it so much. Must admit I was hoping for abit more out of the brakes, felt fine up until then. Glad it didn't happen on a more critical corner with a few hundred foot drop. :| The pads are pagid fast road which I thought were supposed to be a good combination with those disks. Using Dot4, maybe it boiled?

Gave the VR a good old caining up a mountain road in france, 2nd gear was mostly used because of the short straights and tight corners, hence hard acceleration and braking. Oil (with cooler) got to 128deg, nearly missed a turning at the end because the brakes faided badly (Zimmerman cross drilled, fast road pads :( ), when I parked up on full lock the engine nearly stalled and smoke was pooring off the disks which had gone a nice blue tint. This was on a day when it was 40deg air temp so not completely surprising. Only thing to go wrong was I lost a speedline centre cap. Must have shattered cos All I had left was the metal ring and a few bits of plastic. Anyone got a spare? Also tried the top speed on the way back.. managed 148mph GPS confirmed which I was pretty happy with. Felt well smooth and planted aswell.

What size oil cooler would it be? I've got a mocal on my VR but it still gets to 110oC oil temperature. I've seen some VR's have one about 3/4 of the size of the gap between the lights behind the grill. Mine's about half that size sitting where the intercooler would be on a G60 and I don't think it's big enough.

Double check everything is tight after doing the bushes. Sounds like something could be moving around like a loose pivot bolt which goes through the wishbone front bush so giving the wishbone loads of unwanted play.

Both the handle and glass move fractionally before binding up solid. I just mean a few degrees turn on the handle, and mm rock on the glass. The window is stuck about 1/4 open.