RW1

Ah OK, haven't had my breakfast yet, dozy me. Its goosed, end of story and in a dangerous state if connected to the car. Read below. A cell has gone as you have observed. Go and stuff the shop. The battery has failed in a recognised way. Tell them that a cell has gassed. A common failure mode for a battery which results in the cell level going down. And you would not have had any chance of realising unless you checked the battery daily (unreasonable demand). If the guarentee is with the battery maker, not the shop, ring them and report your mega dissappointment to honour their guarentee. AND I wouldn't fit that battery back on the car and run the engine. It could explode. Once saw a battery in a Golf Mk3 go at Inters without warning on the sprint line and the bonnet hit the windscreen and there was no front left between the wings. All blow away with a hell of a crack which hurt my ears at 100m away. THere was nothing left where the battery was other than the two terminals clamped in the car's cables. .

Charge it up right through to full with your charger. ie if 60 amp hr and using a 4 amp charger = 60 / 4 = 15hours. Then leave it off the car for a day and where does the voltage settle? 12.75 volts = 100% charge 12.50 volts = 75% 12.25 volts = 50% 12.00 volts & below. If its good, then it will sit somewhere between 12.75 volts & 12.50 volts. If its below 12.50 volts...... past its sell by date due to internal discharging. Next test with a Battery tester. Could always take it to a local factors who may have one. That will give you the start current capacity to deliver when starting. .

Yup, you won't get the sticker out of a VW dealer as it a factory production control item. Not a orderable replacement part. The service and the boot stickers do differ in what they contain if you are going to be that precise. Have you checked it is a Storm? If not, PM me the last 6 digits (******) of the chassis number after 50zSK******. I will verify. Is it blue or green? .

I thought all Corrado leather was standard in the UK, even the Storms unless specified as an option by the customer. If it has Connolly as an option selected then on the service book sticker or boot sticker it will state VG on the right hand side of the line directly above the 3 alpha/numeric code groups. The left side of the line states the paint code so you know which line I mean. Other codes were for seat covering in that right hand side of the line on the sticker: VA for black standard leather, including the Storms. YU for Biege standard leather, including the Storms. TR for grey standard leather. AF for black "splitt" cloth. RZ for "Atout" cloth. HD for Racaros "Geometric" Black cloth. GU & GY for Black or Grey "Metull" cloth, AV for Grey "Splitt" cloth RW & RX for "Domino" Black or Grey Cloth 03 for "Diagonal Stripe" Black cloth. XT for Recaro Sport in Grey/Blue Green Cloth That's Sept 1992 to the end in 1995 covered. Connolly Leather was not available before September 1992 as far as I can determine. I bought a jar of the Connolly "Hide Food" and have used that on my "YU" standard biege leather. Had it a long time since I bought my Storm back in late 1996. Suppose to feed the leather. Cost iirc about £7 back then from a good furniture shop as VW did not stock it only their own leather treatment. I rang Connolly back then in early 1997 and the balsam they stated was the "Hide Food". They also told me who the shops locally had stock. Obviously you can't do that now as the company has gone...... ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connolly_Leather To quote the jar.... Use about every 2 years and do what the instructions on p72 state. ie Apply sparingly, wait an hour, buff off. Never had any problems with using it. It came in a clear jar but is beige colour when filled and also with matching green top and label to the Storm. :) The Hide Food is like a waxy fat mixed in with a white spirit smelling like solvent. Like heavy axle grease. This is the stuff.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360387141325 http://www.saddler.co.uk/shop.html?cr=1487&pr=1369&pdesc=connolly_hide_food_for_leather Still the same jar design and size, 14 years later lol. .

Its this one... [ATTACH=CONFIG]48716[/ATTACH] .

Ah, it has white display lettering in the MFD. The centre rectangle information display between the speedo & rev counter. If it was a red MFD display lettering........ the windows go up and down when ever it rains or you wash the car. So you would have felt at home given the Corrado is grumbling cos you should be keeping it! Fixed it? .

Ask the guy tierod69. His parts are usually OEM supplier to VW but obvious don't have the VW quality mark stamped on them. Plugs in the link I gave are obviously not NGK originals ! Petrol Filter manufacturers: SOFIMA, KNECHT, BOSCH Oil Filter manufacturers: HENGST Air Filter Manufacturers: MAIN, KNECHT These are the typical suppliers so if he replies with these names, then all is definite good quality. For instance he supplies the original OEM Brake Compensators made by ATE. He's not one for supplying poor parts. .

Illumination centre MFD lettering. .

Bottom of the left door A pillar just above the sill behind the screwed in kick panel. .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-VR6-2-9-SERVICE-KIT-AIR-OIL-FUEL-PLUGS-C559-/190314338261?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c4f9e57d5 Based in Kent. 100% .

Check for leaves in the scuttle on left side around the interior fan intake plastics. or The seal for the interior fan intake base seal to scuttle has perished. or The scuttle bottom floor panel has rusted through somewhere in the area above the passenger parcel shelf. .

Tell me you have not bought that Scirocco with a red dash dials? .

I think no. 52 is most likely as its common to both Windows and Locking. I've just given you all the circuit's fuses. .

Fuse 4 - 15 amp (blue) C/Locking Fuse 14 - 10 amp (red) Windows Fuse 52 - 20 amp (yellow) C/Locking & Windows [located up above the two rows of relays] If any pops again.... you've got water in door motors or the rear right quarter panel sill where the window controller is. .

Thanks, I'll have a detail look later on. .

Got any photos you can put up of last year?? .

http://www.mjwarner.co.uk .

The risk is considerably lessened, but still wise to install a fuse in the brown earth wire just in case the switch ever mechanically fails for some odd reason. The Chinese switch can still do what the old switch did if the internal plastic levers break. But with the internal bulb heat removed from the internl lamp area, only mis-use like hard punching it ON or OFF can have an effect or a manufacturing defect. The basic internal mechanical design hasn't been changed. The sliding switch contact plate could still skew and cause a short. .

Why do that. Loop a thin string loop around it, so as not to loose it. Pass it thro the slave fan so as its all in front of the fan and up against the radiator. Then pass a belt loop to the drive fan. And hitch the whole loop on. Remove string. Bit fiddley but can be done. ETA: Where did the old belt go? Its not in the bottom of the radiator cowl is it?? They can "just" drop off sometimes... . ---------- Post added at 08:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 PM ---------- Talk to Dubpower for their VW marked thermostat. 70'C instead of the standard 80'C one. http://dubpower.co.uk/VR6%20parts.HTM .

None heated are specified for the C. 191 955 985A .

Cheap as chips mate... get them on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOLF-MK1-MK2-GTI-CABRIO-CADDY-SCREEN-WASH-JET-GENUINE-/250870810453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6910c755 .

Short occurs cos the bulbs make the switch cap plastic levers inside go brittle and break. If one breaks (the upper most one), the other plastic lever then skews the switch internal contact slider and its possible to put 12 volts directly onto the brown (earth) wire and so melt the wire insulation and heat it up. Or in case of the German made original swtiches, they can come new with poor soldering which has bridged the 12 volts onto the brown wire and same as above happens. Switches have been like this since as far back as 1997 and I know of three incidents on fitting a replacement toasting the wire including mine. Brown wire is an earth wire used only to complete the small bulb (centre lamp symbol) illumination circuit. Therefore it is only a smaller size wire and heats up fast when the fault occurs. The brown wire has no part to play in the sidelight or headlight circuits. I located mine at the fuse/relay plate as per the post early in the topic. Mainly for ease of access by the bonnet pull handle. I did some test with 1 amp car fuses and same size wire and length with a car battery. It doesn't matter which end really as the results with the fuse still protected the brown wire under test with no damage. The fuses always went instantly. Reducing the fuse to less with a cartridge fuse ampage rating on a 1.2watt bulb ciruit for the direct short that occurs can only be beneficial. Looking at the switch mechanical contacting inside, the short is capable of carrying headlight currents easily and more, hence the fire risk. Reason the other wires in the loom do not burn quickly is because they are of a heavier gauge. In my incident they did show signs of heat not directly attributable to the adjacent brown earth wire. I managed to get the faulty new switch off PDQ. The shorting issue will still be there. You may have fitted the LEDs but as the switch could still fail as the bulbs will have already made the plastic somewhat brittle. Plus if you are one of those peeps who punches switches ON/OFF, then the top internal lever could still break, even if not affected - the levers are not strong. Then a skewed contact plate will bridge the 12 volts to the brown wire and ...... It is a good worthwhile dormant cheap mod until one day ............ .

Unfortunately I've given away the bag of Mk1 switches I had. I seem to remember only the faicia cap changed. Some one on here must hav tried the swap. Not absolutely 100% sure TBO. More the switch cap top into the dash as the electrical connection is the same with the same loom plastic connector body. Still will have to knock off the plastic keyway locator peg though. .

2' Centigade on oil temp typically. I often wonder if it was done for aerodynamic reasons like the BlueMotions of today. Or cos the front spoiler shortened and more air volume could go in under the bumper and up over the engine as a result. So they wanted less flow through the radiator. .

Yup, Storms had filled in as did 1995 onwards production. .