RW1

Have a look up the filter housing. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56348-Problem-with-VR6-slightly-overheating-with-rising-Oil-Pressure .

Castrol Magnetec 15w40 for the last 6 changes since 2000. previously Castrol Magnetec 15w40 x 6 own servicing. previously Quantum Synta Gold x 2 put in by dealers at my request. previously unknown at dealers x 2 Some of the changes in oil types have been driven by the weeping and being narked by it, thinking the oil was the cause. Ie Synta Gold to Castrol Magnetec Also if you look closely at the end plate of the filter, there is a distinct fold across it, which I didn't do extracting it, suggesting that the fliter cartridge was rotated sideways, ripping the top plate off. Could have been the oil pressure while it was at the top but I have my doubts as its quite stiff to bend. .

I reckon so. I mean what is a 3 year old engine in 1997/98 suddenly starting to lightly sweat and be wet with oil films at various points around the engine. Ever since then, I've had to occassionally wipe the engine down. Its gradually got worse until about 5 years ago it started pluming down over steering rack and the underside of the floor pan. But the oil pressure gauge in the filter head wasn't showing it THAT high. That dial just read +1bar or normally expected pressures at running temps of 2 bar idle, 4.5 bar at 3,000+rpm But who knows what was going on inside the engine oil galleries. Another thing thats a little quieter are the hydraulic tappets. The main thing is the grinding noise has gone. Sounded like a milling machine working metal. That noise came from lower down in the engine... oil pump working against a blockage and the gears mashing the oil. The engine very different yesterday from how its been for years. So smooth........... . ---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ---------- Not on mine, the filter is still engaged on the engine oil feed pipe. I have to push the hose out of the way to get extra drop to free the filter off the engine oil feed pipe. There may be a relief valve in the pump but that doesn't stop the oil pump generating higher oil pressures than 7 bar. I know off one VR6 oil pump relief valve plunger jammed in the fully open position. When cold the pump was still raising oil pressures to the point it was forcing hydraulic tappets to open without the help of the cams. This happened because the middle oil gallery on which the piston oil cooling jets are located was blocked and so caused back pressure which the relief valve couldn't cope with. The only place the pressure could force more easily was the tappets and cam upper oil gallery. .

Since the second service at VW Harrogate in May 1997 at 18,500 miles where they split brake fluid all down the inside channel carrying the fuel pipes from the tank and that part of the engine bay. After that I started getting oil weepage from the sump gasket, oil cooler seal to the engine block, the bottom forward corner of the plate carrying the engine crank seal and the timing chain case cover split where the head gasket comes out round the chains. Been chasing the leaks ever since and not winning. Despite renewing the sump gasket last August with sealant added, it started weeping again. Inspection today and thats all gone! No oil weeping out. Plus around that time I started having hotter running on the motorway cruising ie. oil at 114'C. Now its 106'C and knocking about yesterday it dropped regularly to 96'C at slower coasting speeds. Now here's the filter installation/power steering pipes alignment. It isn't assembled wrongly. The rubber pipe is shapped and lies naturally where it is clipped. There is even a production white marks on the hose for positioning the engine speed sensor wire clip, so it can't go any other way. [ATTACH=CONFIG]47231[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]47232[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]47233[/ATTACH] The monkey will have only have got half the filter length out before the power steering rubber pipe stops it dropping further. Then by pulling forwards to the bumper to avoid the rubber steering hose, the filter will cack handedly come out in a forward turning motion. I reckon someone has yanked it forward and broken the glue adhesive between the filter and its top plate. So the plate was left on the oil feed pipe hidden from view. Not me as I've always checked what comes out is whole. There is no mention in the blue VW engine manual or the blue VW Service manual to remove the clip and move the rubber power steering hose out of the way. But without doing that, the filter and cap will not drop vertically and be free of the filter housing. So the only way out is by a gentle twist forward if the clip is not freed. .

Had a problem appear on the Corrado after winter storage recently. Oil temp slightly up by 6'C to 112'C at motorway 70mph cruise with water up by about 3'C to 98'C. Funny thing, the oil pressure also rose by +1 bar :scratch: That was from a cold start. Stop the engine at a motorway services and afterwards the same cruising would give the normal readings. So quite a few checks such as plugs, VCDS diagnostics & aux water pump reveal nothing unusual. So had a chatter with Yandards and came to the conclusion that a bit of sealant from the changing of the engine sump seal had fallen off and caused a blockage. So decided to drop the oil filter out of the filter housing and look at the oil for black bits of sealant. Nothing :scratch: So for the first time when I've done an oil filter removal on the Corrado, I looked up inside the filter housing. WTF! 021 115 561A, I recognise that part number....... top plate part stamping of an oil filter! [ATTACH=CONFIG]47221[/ATTACH] The oil filter top end plate! [ATTACH=CONFIG]47218[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47219[/ATTACH] How it should have been like. [ATTACH=CONFIG]47222[/ATTACH] The assembly as it would have been in the housing. The oil pump feed outlet can be seen in the photos. The would have been spliting the old and new top end plates apart casuing a partial blockage. [ATTACH=CONFIG]47220[/ATTACH] Seems, when it had one of its 4 services at VW between 1996 & 1999, someone has yanked the filter out forward due to the power steering pump rubber pipe being in the way and leaving the filter top plate inside the filter housing on the engine oil feed pipe. They had not checked all the filter had come out and used the replacement to ram the old top plate up inside to the top of the filter housing. I must have disturbed the old plate enough at the pre-storage service last October just position the filter and old plate to cause a restriction this time round. Removed obviously and what a different engine the VR6 is now, not just the readings above returning to the normal above but also rapid oil cooling if the temp is raised and then the engine allowed to coast, smoother engine and a grinding noise its had for years (oil pump forcing against a partial blockage) has gone. .

If the ISV is causing it..... If starting without throtlle just on the key fails but applying 1/2 throttle while starting it and it runs above 2,000 rpm but dies with no throttle will suggest its the ISV. As Steve, jiggle the key for ignition switch before changing. .

And if the filter housing is stiff to turn, put the drain plug back in after draining it before you apply force. Helps keep its strength. .

Not on its own. What coolant ratio mix are you using? .

Considering the fault only considers its u/s, not how the sensor has failed, ie. open circuit or short. The ECU is seeing either hot air in the manifold or cold. So either cold start up is poor or hot running is poor. DVM reading is needed to know what its state is to fully understand. .

G72 is located on the battery side of the intake manifold just below the vacuum pipe for the brake servo. Part No. 046 905 379. Standard checks are; 1) Temp Sensor G72 has failed. Check - at 50'C internal is resistance is 700 - 900 ohms, 100'C 175 - 225 ohms. 2) Connector at the sensor in the manifold is disconnected 3) Wire has grounding or is broken or pin is pushed back in connector or at the engine ECU. Black wire is ground Blue/Green stripe is signal wire direct to engine ECU connector, pin 36. One in line plug break at the main engine connector, pin 42 .

Might be worth looking at the ISV which could be stuck through lack of use. Give it a clean. .

The dash dial gauges are wildly inaccurate on older VW's. Thought my Stage I had failed recently with bringing it out of storage and running at 110'C water / 102'C oil temp. The fans hadn't kicked in until these readings on the dash dial/LCD. Stuck a paper clip down the Stage I wire (red/white stripe) in the back of the fan motor connection and using a DVM. Low and behold, the fan repeatedly coming on at the above temps was Stage I. The engine did/does not feel hot with the bonnet lifted so I conclude the dash water temp gauge is reading about 10'C - 15'C high. Fresh tank of petrol and within 10 miles, the engine temps had dropped 6'C - 10'C generally. And it took longer for the Stage I fan to come on as it used to. Stored petrol ain't what it used to be (6 months storage). .

Don't forget the engine crank speed sensor. Can go intermittent like this before full failure. .

The NCB stays the same but there is a sting..... Crash on one will impact premium on the other policies with some companies as you have become a higher risk. Even if the insurance company is a different company. That little question they ask, "any accidents/claims in the last * years". It applies to ALL the policies so when the other comes up for renewal, the NCB may not change but its like speeding points etc, the accident and if claimed should be declared to avoid invalidating the policy by not updating your status. As said, a scam best describes. Run three policies on three cars with full NCB on all. One got hit some time back, all three jumped in premium. Think with the highly modified VR6 / BMW you are best on two separate bearing in mind the mod state of the VR6 and the insurance declaration interlinkage. A bit homework to do on pricing me thinks. Bell who the two "Sunday" cars are with are separate policies. They suggested this week that sister company Elephant with multi-car policy maybe worth a shout. Still to plumb the numbers into the Elephant website. Seems they will set-up on the first car, say at renewal & tranisition the change over the period until the other(s) single policy expires, even if its another 11 months. So you eventually get to a true multi-car policy. The other thing if you haven't renewed the existing policy recently is the price hike in premiums. About 35% this week for me. It seems to be happening across the board since January. .

Still got the old one?? Should fit. .

Did you change the coolant thermostat with the new water pump? If not, it could be its not fully opening when it needs to. But its opening position is OK when driving along. .

Something sticks in my mind that around the late ninties, the original wasn't available for a while so you had to change over the filter housing. Certainly remember answering a lot of Q's on the CCGB helpline with this issue. .

The actual filter is 021 115 561A The 562 number is the kit with O ring. [ATTACH=CONFIG]46935[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46936[/ATTACH] Both ends. Clips into the bottom of the plastic screw cap, add the O ring and offer up to the housing. .

Storm wasn't/isn't different. Filter 021 115 562, includes the rubber O ring for the screw cap. Looks like yours may have been modified. .

Not the VAG VW coporate image = amateur sketch. :lol:

Here you go........... Chris at SKF Hyde ordered some exhasut hangers for me (spares) about two weeks ago. Decided to order two sets (4 per set, 2 with metal frame, 2 without) before they too went obsolete. Aft of middle section pair on inspection last month were looking stretched and tired after 16 years. The design of those two has changed to look like the rubber part only in the photos. [ATTACH=CONFIG]46912[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]46913[/ATTACH] .

BTW, the OEM item 16 above doesn't fit where the exhaust out support arm rod is sitting. In the second photo, you can see the rotted remains of the old item 16 inboard behind & above the free inner support rod of the exhaust. The exhaust support rod is hangin on the square U shape which is the factory carrying cradle mounting point used before they put the wheels & tyres on. Item 16 does not attach to the chassis at this position. .

Been doing anything with the brakes recently? Like backing off the caliper pistons? .

Have you tried disconneting the electrical connector on the front of the ABS valve block/pump unit? Apply some WD40 and work the connector. .

Yeah, that module is sometimes referred to as an ignition switch (for switching an ignition coil to generate a spark voltage) but doesn't sit at the bottom of the ignition key barrel. Thats the switch above dragon green put up. .