RW1

Put me down for one Matt. Now there's confidence in the product! .

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49621-under-bonnet-insulation-what-have-you-done-with-yours/page2&highlight=white+spirit+credit+car About halfway down the page. .

Brush on white spirit and leave for 20 mins. It will drop off. .

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56755-What-would-the-interest-be-in-new-late-headlight-switches-Pricing-Update.&p=736114&highlight=yellow#post736114

VW don't specify ATF for the Corrado. Its always been stated as G 002 000. No distinction with 1989 - 1995. G002 000 is a pale green fluid. Otherwise it will be ATF Dexron. .

Got one of those £52 jobbies. Chinese manufactured. Not convinced of the quality. Hence chasing the cheapest Bosch made. .

They were available as there is a RHD UK Corrado with this kit fitted. Maybe not available now but was some 12 years ago. .

All Corrado factory fit Electric Racaros run off their own fuse. It never changed from 1989 to 1995 how it was wired and fused. If the seats were fitted, the fuse was fitted in one of the spare slots above the two main relay rows on the fuse/replay plate. Similar position to the Central Locking fuse 20 amp (yellow) in a dedicated fuse holder. If originally not fitted, there will be no fuse slot or wiring. So to wire up..... The supply before fusing in the factory build is taken off connectior Y position, pin 1. This is a connection to busbar 30 which is the battery supply busbar. The Y connection on the back of the fuse/relay plate is the horizontal set of 4 heavy duty male connections. This is located in the top right corner as you look at the fitted fuse/relay plate while sat in the driver's seat. Pin 1 is the furthest from the side edge. Its obvious its the connection as it will have a very heavy duty red wire in pin 3. Rather than try replicate the fuse on the plate, fit an in-line fuse holder to your seat loom and then take an additional short wire which can carry 20 amps to the connection Y, pin 1 and connect. Fuse rating on factory fitted fuse is 20 amps. .

So what price for the ISV are they quoting you Steve? .

Thanks for the info, now I know how I can work them....

These will be useful as they don't have the little filament bulb inside that is on all the time causing the heat. Use LED's and run cold. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56755-What-would-the-interest-be-in-new-late-headlight-switches-Pricing-Update. ABS, nope..... looking at probably a wheel sensor. Given the rain, check and WD40 the front left ABS connection just by the bottom of the strut behind the disc splash plate. Also, may as well do the right side while the tools are out. If not that..... you need a diagnostics session with VCDS and see what fault code(s) is being shown. .

Thank you. Euro Car website shows £205.20. ?????? .

Whats the Euro Car parts reference number? .

My Scirocco 8v does it. As have 5 previous 8 valvers also do this. My Corrado VR6 does it. As long as the rad fans cut in its OK. If you had the rad thermo switch set equal to the running temp, the fans would be on all the time. As long as the temp rises no further and the rad fans bring down the temp. Plus the oil temp follows abeit more slowly either up or down. The engine cooling is normal. Get worried when it carries on up together with the oil temp following with the rad fans on or not working. Then there is something wrong. But for peace of mind, warm the engine up, stick a probe in on the 1st & 2nd stage cooling wires to the fan at its motor casing connector and see if each comes on (ie. 12 volts) or whether you just have a 1st stage or second stage only working. At the fan connector.... 1st stage is red/white stripe wire. 2nd stage is red/black stripe wire I've used a straightened out paper clip to get thro' to the connector on the engine plug side in the past. .

And hey..... they ain't 20 year old tyres! :) .

Don't forget the brolly and wellies :) .

Its the yellow wires and big dropping resistor just behind the left front headlight. It was a UK thing cos people were driving round with candles on the front of their cars in the 80's. So big Gov. decided it would be a good idea to have the main dipped headlights on when sidelights were switched on while driving. I've already been asked by one friend who wants to retain it on his Corrado. But rather than just the headlights being on and bright, they come on with a yellowy glow. Know as town driving lights by some as that was their main intended use. No its not necessary and all my VWs have had it isloated immediately and pass the MoT each year. And in fitting the Chinese switch, because there is no pin connection on the switch base, there is no need for electrical isolation of fuses or wires. So its a simple swap. And if people have fitted a headlight loom already fitted, the dim-dip will have been isolated because it upset the loom relays. If people will be fitting a headlight loom in future, there is no need to isolate the dim-dip circuit as the electrical supply no longer is present that upsets the relay control of the headlight loom. I also suggest people make it a buy one, buy one spare as these won't always be available given Matt will have to bulk order from China. .

OK, examined and tested the Chinese Headlight Switch. Here is what I found. The heat generating small 1.2 watt bulbs that lead to the switched finger posts failing as seen in the right side of the photo below have been substituted with LEDs. So the switch runs cold when they illuminate. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48405[/ATTACH] With the body cover removed, the detail construction can be seen. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48406[/ATTACH] The other main change is an electronic dash light dimmer circuit has replaced the rheostat resistor version in the German made one. The transistor case you can see is a MOSFET transistor used to amplify the 8 pin Integrated Circuit near the knurled thumb wheel. Together they provide a Pulse Width Modulation power supply for the dash illumination controlled by a variable potentiometer hidden inside the knurled thumb wheel. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48407[/ATTACH] Side view showing the 8 pin PWM IC. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48408[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48409[/ATTACH] The basic switch mechanics and the electrical sliding contacts are the equivalent of 535 941 531D, LHDrive Corrado fit. Clearly you can see the bulb to LED change and the deletion of the rheostat resistor for an electronic circuit. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48410[/ATTACH] I made a precautionary mod. On examination, the MOSFET transistor metal base is quite close to a switch base contact rail and a bare wire inside the switch used to illuminate the internal LEDs. So I added a short piece of wire heat shrink wrap to isolate the MOSFET from the other electrical parts. So be careful when fitting not to move the transistor you can see the 3 legs of in the switch body and everything will be alright. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48411[/ATTACH] The switch fits into the dash slot as per the German original. It is a direct mechanical substitution. It will be necessary on UK Corrados to cut off the locator keyway cleanly/flush with the base of the switch (connection pin side) for it to plug into the Headlight Loom Connector. LH Drive Corrado’s, this is not necessary. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48412[/ATTACH] This how the switch looks with just the ignition switched on (ie. daytime driving). It is fairly bright so at night time, it will be brighter than the old German version and it cannot be dimmed. If you need to subdue it, I suggest the top of the red LED lens is masked off with a dot mask cap of black paint to stop direct LED light. (This is how I do it when I have fitted LEDs) [ATTACH=CONFIG]48413[/ATTACH] When both the sidelights and headlights are switched on, the green ring is illuminated. This differs from my switch in that the green ring extinguishes when the headlights are switched on. If the ignition is not switched on, the red lamp symbol is not illuminated. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48414[/ATTACH] Another photo showing the switch illumination with the dash dials turned fully on. The Chinese Headlight switch operates the sidelights, headlights normally. It permits the front and rear fog lights to operate as they would with a German version of the switch. On a standard Corrado dash installation, ie. it uses filament bulbs, the dials, fog-HRW-Seat control switch bank , the heater panel and the auxiliary oil pressure/voltage unit in the centre console will all illuminate. What doesn’t work is the Dim-Dip circuit as the switch like its German counterpart for LHD Corrado’s, does not have the circuit fitted. In summary: - Uses LEDs instead of filament bulbs internally for cool running and therefore no long term internal damage as happens with the German version. - The quality of the switch build is on a par with the German version. - The Chinese switch has removed the troublesome heat source . - The dimmer control works over a greater rotation angle so adjustment control is much finer. - The locating Keyway on the switch needs removing to permit the Headlight Loom Connector to couple. - The Green “lights on” ring in the switch cap is illuminated all the time the lights are on with ignition on where as the German version is only illuminates when the sidelights are on with ignition on. - The Dim-Dip circuit on UK RH Drive Corrados will not be operable. - When tested, the dimmer circuit control when used with LED illumination in the dash switches, heater control panel and dials does not work. - Be careful when fitting the switch not to move the 3 legged transistor as it may then contact a bare wire or one of the switches sliding contact rails. So, the switch is an ideal substitute and represents very good value for the price Matt is offering for a standard Corrado which has a filament bulb illumination dash as produced at the factory by Karmann. .

Obsolete part at VW for ages. Alternative .....http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?43153-Headlight-Reflector-Refurbishment-Service There is also a website selling reflectors ... http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p1881_Reflektor-links-Fahrerseite-fuer-Corrado-Scheinwerfer.html/cat/109 http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p1882_Headlight-Reflector---Right-Side---Corrado.html .

BTW I won't be the only one on the concours line at Tatton tomorrow with its grandad tyres on. And it will have travelled a fair old way to get to the show. .

Three headlight versions, all with different slopes. Noticable if early body mixed with later lights and vice-versa. .

Oooooo...... :norty: Exactly! That what niether car experiences with me. Remember, I'm a pensioner these days and I have to follow the pensioner's highway code.... have to create hold ups everywhere by driving at 15mph below the road speed limits. :D .

Only got advisory on the originals at 18 years when the walls started to crack. Still had 4mm of tread depth on them at 22,000 miles. By that time I had 3 MXV2s ready to go on, just needed a 4th. So they got replaced when I got the 4th over winter and the replacements have had two MoTs without comment. Sourced from Ford Escort boot spare wheel & tyre so not been exposed to UV. They get inspect too often like they've just been done today for the 40 mile round trip to Tatton on Sunday. Tread is fine, walls fine, driving like MXV2 always did. No extra heat on the way to BVF in July. Can't say other brands are the same. The Corrado's Avons are giving out after 12 years and the rears are still like new with 6mm tread depth still available. So they will be replaced. Thats the problem with Sunday cars, replacement isn't wear and tear, its aging of the parts or lack of use of them such as seals which then start weeping. .

20 years old. Brand new with colour running lines still marked. Have 6 altogether, 2 for puncture/damage replacements. Bought th elast one 3 weeks ago in North Wales. .

Had Firestone F690's on mine. Some had Dunlops SP2000 or something like SP2***. They were very quick wearing. Brochures are re-touched photos so not always the car. It shows Uniroyal. Old tyres are fairly easy to pick up. I have just fitted brand new 20year old Michelin MXV2 tyres to a Mk2 Scirocco to replace the original MXV2s from new, for good reason ;) .