RW1

Ah right, the dial pointer is reading low. Temp gauge is not an accurate thing, just relative. Sounds as though its working OK, just a low reading. In traffic I get the fans on regularly once the engine has heated up due to standing in the traffic. You can look at the coolant temp with VCDS in the Engine ECU.... Group 001, field 03. If thats agree with the gauge, then the sender is reading low. If its reading higher and corresponding more to the figure for stage one at 108'C - 110'C, then the gauge itself has the error. But as said, the VW gauges are wildly different between cars. After-run fan. Yellow connector sensor on the thermostat housing is a good place to start. Before replacing, a check would be wise to see if it has switched ON with ignition OFF and a hot engine. Can't remember which wire colour to look at of the 4 wires. Not on my own computer at the mo. Will look up tonight and append here. Two are the dash dial gauge temp sender output. The other two control the sensing that triggers the fan controller to switch on the after-run fan (aka stage 1 rate). ETA: Found my post on here after struggling with the stupid search. Disconnect the yellow connector and bridge pins 1 & 4 (was 3). The stage 1 fan should run. If not then the fan controller is suspect. Yellow sensor check by warming up the engine until stage 1 fan triggers with the engine running and check to see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 4 (was 3) on the yellow sensor itself are closed and making a circuit. If not, yellow sensor is faulty. .

Once started, if you stop the engine again will it restart OK or does it crank? .

? ? ? After-run fans don't always switch on if the engine is cool enough. .

Ah, that points to the ISV not opening or flooding ....... Will it run at idle after its just started or do you need to use the throttle? Got VCDS??

1993 Black VW Corrado 2.9 VR6 - Current True?? Key Immobilser was only introduced in Oct'94. Chassis SK000719 onwards. .

The reason is because as above Stage 1 & 2 are controlled by the thermal switch in the rad wall by the battery tray corner. The ones in the thermostat housing control: -the Stage 3 (and you will know thats on!) - the after-run fan when you switch off the ignition and the engine stops if the coolant temp is still high. The rad switch stage 1 is direct, so the fan only comes on if this switche is on. The fan controller near the header tank is not involved. Same as an ordinary 8v circuit in effect. Stage 1 switch off, stage 1 fan off. Stage 1 switch on, stage 1 fan on. ETA: If it kicks in at 82'C, does this mean the stage 1 is running all the time you are driving?? Or is this just the dash dial reading and it reads lower whe you are normally driving? .

Follow the thick red battey lead down onto the starter body. The small cylinder unit. :) .

Yup, the Corrado was highly priced compared to the Scirocco Mk2. A lot like me at the time thought its introduction was the Scirocco Mk2 successor but when they announced the price...... It was an arm and a leg to buy above the two Scirocco models. So continued buying a new Mk2, no brainer at brochure on the road price of £13k versus a Corrado at £19k- 20kish for a 16v or G60. On top of that I negotiated the Mk2 8v Inj down to £10k. So a no brainer at the time. (Ref. Jan'91). .

Back then yellow was a very unliked colour. Plus it suffered the removal from car colour options earlier cause the yellow was derived from using a lead compound. After withdrawal of the yellow paint containing lead, they came up with alternative compounds a few years later like Nugget. But sales didn't recover. .

Yes. Replace or go the epoxy repair method. As well as smearing the top surface, put Vaseline inside the plug lead connections also. .

Looks like this.... [ATTACH=CONFIG]48962[/ATTACH] There's no hidden wiring for the VDO accessories (or back lighting the Cassette Holder light connection). Best way is to wire the instruments to a plug and socket at the back of the instruments. Then wire the short length to the instruments. Then if you want it out, just disconnect the plug and remove the panel with instruments. Wires go all over depending on what instruments you want to fit. .

An alternative is to wipe on some Vaseline. A light smear to insulate and keep the damp at bay so leakage paths can't develop. Thats all the RAC stuff is doing. .

Not on the Corrado. 3 thermal switches in the system. Stage 1 & 2 on the radiator by the battery, Stage 3 in the thermostat housing and afterrun fan on, also in the thermostat housing. Stage 1 fan does not use the fan controller unit, it directly switches the stage 1 fan ON, Red wire with White stripe. Which is why I asked about the radiator stage 1 & 2 thermal switch in the radiator sidewall at the battery being changed. . ETA: Golf Mk3 & 4 Only differences are: Mk3 Stage 1 fan is driven via the fan controller. Mk4 fans as Mk3 but both rad fans are motorised. No under temp fan or sensor. Both have after-run fan circuits and aux. electrical water pumps.

Yes, its the connection on the gearbox rear side on the diff housing by the RH drive shaft. Hall sender. Black tower type item. Water probably got into the wire side of the connector cos of the little plastic sheild for the wires acts like a little reservoir. . .

Ah memories..... That video at the time drove the second hand price of a Storm up from £22,500 to £25,000 on the dealer forecourts. And the its lasted well over 12 months on resale values at the time. The fast moving shots on the downhill road are the A62 just up above Marsden in West Yorkshire. .

Whats the position of the rubber stop on the right corner? Screw it in a turn and see if the bonnet stays put. It could be preventing the latch in the slam panel fully locking home by keeping the bonnet edge high. If it doesn't work, screw the rubber stop right in. So it is guarenteed the latch has closed. If that works, unscrew the stop until the shut line is correct with the RH wing and check the corner has no free play to vibrate. You'll have to find the balance by adjustment. . .

Have you changed the radiator thermal switch unit near the battery? They cost about £20+ish at the dealers but chubnut9999 (GPC) on EBAY sells them (genuine VW marked) occassionally. About half price. Out the other day on a run from the A555 down the A34/Alderley Edge bypass to Holmes Chapel, then Congleton, then A34 back to Alderly Edge, 50mph to 70mph generally. Outside temp was 17'C. Water dash dial sat at 93'C, oil 104'C but if pushed it rose to 110'C. No fans on the move I could detect. Parked up after 1.5 hours, rad fans were not on. Water temp rose slowly from 93'C to 109'C over about 5 mins on the dash dial at which point stage 1 rad fan kicked in and brought the temp down to 104'C. Oil temp at this point stayed static at 104'C At that stage with the fan just knocked off, drove off and it dropped inside a couple of miles to 93'C, oil dropped to 100'C, drving at a steady 40mph. Another day recently, motorway at a steady 70mph after 2 hours reaches 106'C on oil, water sat at 93'C. Outside air was 20'C. If pushed or on an incline, the oil will rise to 110'C and then drop back to 104'C/106'C after easing up or cresting the motorway climb. Water dial rises slightly to 96'C when the oil temp. is at 110'C (All since fixing the oil filter blockage in June as per another topic - Link ) Never had stage 2 on for as long as I can remember. Engine doesn't feel hot and is cold on top if bonnet is lifted straight away, only gets hot after 10 mins due to the rising engine block heat. Ticks over smoothly, no missing beats and does 33mpg indicated/brim to brim checked. Exhaust pipe is more or less clean if wiped with a finger inside the tailpipe. Thats how its been since I bought it. Stop engine and rad fan only comes on if the water temp is up at 95'C - 100'C due to standing in traffic just prior to stopping the engine. If below 95'C, no after run fan. Aux. water pump runs all the time. Emissions - MoT's return fast idle @ 2,500 rpm as CO - 0.00% to 0.02%, HC - 2ppm to 15ppm, idle @ 680 rpm CO - 0.00% (MoT's 1998 - 2010) Runs on exclusively Texaco 97RON unleaded, Castrol Magnatec 15w40 since Sept.2000, factory standard NGK spark plugs and standard paper air filter. 44,107 miles to date. .

Normal :) Join the club my friend. .

OK, found the VW bulletin on the bracket and its deletion.... Deleted from production in April 1993. Thats chassis 50PK010417 onwards. Applies to all Corrados - 8v, 16v & VR6 but not a clean chassis break, staggered a little in April'93. It states if the Corrado has it, its to remain in place. And... a new & thicker Gear Shift Damping Washer was introduced at the same time by another bulletin. It sits at the bottom of the gearstick below the Selector Lever Guide - part number: 535 711 055D on the shaft of the vertical shift rod. The washer is chaffered on both faces. Part number is given and ETKA shows it more away than its true position, part number: 357 711 901A. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48936[/ATTACH] Its made of an off-white latex rubber and sits in between the gear stick base plate and the Selector Lever Guide - part number: 535 711 055D. If its damaged or missing, the gearstick would not have as much compression in its spring (the pressure you feel for selection the reverse gate), so I guess it could be another source for a rattle if missing. .

Don't think of the late Corrados have that mounting bracket. 357 199 356 if its still available. Not fitted to mine. The mounting has always puzzled me as its attached to the top of the left rear mount which is still flexible. Which leads me to think its to do with some sort of undesirable drive torque distorting the gearbox under heavy loads, like in 1st gear. Plus changing the gearbox removes the other two problem areas above - selector shaft and reverse gear slector spring. But if you fitted uprated support mounts at the three positions, I suppose thats the same as the bracket?? .

Looks like an airconditioning switch. Whether its being used for that..... .

At the gearbox? Don't confuse further movement with what one might call "bearing free play". I have forward movement beyond the 1st gear in selection but at the point of "in gear", there is only a very, very, very slight movement. ie. it won't rattle. And thats because there is a slight slackness in the gear cable attachments. So the gear stick is isolated from this selector shaft. .

Optional extras do get fitted to other fuses, so its more the full electrical load on a fuse being overloaded the circuit fuse as I posted above. If you are going to splice a wire at the fuse box, you may as well pick up off the back of the fuse box on a battery spare connection as in the link and use the separate fuse. If its that yellow 20 amp fuse on the very top of the plate, thats the Lambda probe heating. .

What else was on the fused circuit and were they all switched on and it still worked? .

No, dedicated 20 amp fuse as per this.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56083-Recaro-wiring&p=737460#post737460 .