RW1

The Storm came specifically Sony CDX600DSP as per the special sales brochure. If you really want one of these, your best chance is on the German Ebay. Thats where I eventually found mine, as my Storm had been upgraded with a Sony Radio/Cassette & CD Jukebox by the original owner at the initial sale from the dealers. .

They are in the Controller 25 - Immobilser. Only 4 fields in Group 001. A good engine start looks like this........ [ATTACH=CONFIG]46701[/ATTACH] The only other indications are the fault code for a "blocked" communications between the Immobiliser and the engine ECU. .

It's not that bad a price when you consider that late ninties prices for parts & fitting was about £800 at the dealers if you take inflation into account. That £788 looks a good price for OEM fitted. Got my (new ex dealer) spare for £75 at GTi Inters 4 years ago. Couldn't believe my eyes when I saw it lying on the grass. Then when the trader said his price, I was stumped. At first I thought I misheard, but no. Only just fitted in the car to bring it home. .

I think you have it in one there! (I have one like this near me. Only used in emergencies now.) Move on Form a relationship with another dealer. .

It doesn't remanifest itself like that when the sensor is on the way out. The engine has to rev to the upper limits (+4k rpm) for a short period of time so that the ECU can compare and calculate. Then 00515 will re-appear and trigger limp home mode. It could be intermittant at the moment so will take a few high rpm durations for the sensor to have a wobble again. If it does then yes change the cam position sensor, its going. Got two in the loft half shot like this. And quite a few new ones for just in case. If you keep the engine rpm below 3,500 rpm, the fault won't neccessarily re-appear while the sensor is on the way out. Boot it above 4k rpm for more than about 5 seconds and 00515 will probably trigger into the fault memory. Short durations do not give the comparison between the cam & crank time to be analysed. .

For me thats no better....... crap fuel. And 95RON will give you a drop in power anyway. First post above gives me the impression that there is no fault code. So I cannot see how the cam sensor could trigger "limp home mode" and the poorer running you are getting. What was the fault code you saw before clearing? 00515? .

Tesco is yuk fuel. It's not started doing it since you filled up has it? .

I tend to agree with S/C Steve, could just be a poor tank of fuel with no DTC's. Rather than chase your tail, top up with the highest octane like Shell V Power and see how it goes. Otherwise I'd look at a new fuel filter next if it has not been changed recently. VR6 is sensitive to fuel pressure drops. Basic Settings will be on Group 000 on your's Hasan. Don't bhter with the battery diconnect and inital set-up. Just get it warmed up and select B.S. on 000 as per that part of the procedure. I don't think it will solve your problem. .

http://menmedia.co.uk/manchestereveningnews/news/s/1409636_800000_speed_camera_on_cat_and_fiddle_fails_to_catch_a_single_biker -------------- Bit late as class numbers are generally fixed for show layout and almost certainly nearly full and full up by this stage. You'll have to give it a try and see. Contact: For Concours Information:- Rob Loughrey 01455 239723 [email protected] http://www.stanfordhallvw.co.uk/concours.htm By the way, you'll need a map to get there on current performance ! :lol: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?54944-Stanford-Hall-2011-Sunday-1-5-2011&highlight=stanford+hall

You just need a switch. Buy one at the dealers for long term. Not expensive. .

You've got a faulty ignition switch. There's more than one set of contacts in the switch. The radio is a separate switch as the key is pushed in hence the wiggle bringing it on. New switch should cure it. .

406.0mm +/- 1mm. From the centre of the ball joint to the rack side of the bulbous end flange, at it's face edge where it joins the smaller threaded stubby shaft part, not the very end. And not the first step down from the max diameter of the bulbous end flange. This is fixed once set to the above dimension. Adjust only the RHside tie rod to adjust track. From what I remember years ago doing it, it's not accurately possible when its fitted. .

On page 1 ..... [ATTACH=CONFIG]46321[/ATTACH] The immobilser box sits on the bottom lip area of the dash inside. Has two connections. As CazzaVR states, follow the shiney black wire off the steering column into the box. Connection is 3 pin one nearest the steering column. .

That video is exactly what I get if mine plays up with the key immobilser connection inside the dash. .

So the WD40 trick on the immobilser didn't work? .

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46308[/ATTACH] Sure both of you haven't got collapsed rubber hoses???? Nothing will be visible externally. Had this a while back when mine wouldn't bleed very easily even when pushing the peddle hard. Look at the condition of the inner tubing of the top hose which was blocked. The bottom row pair were a hose that bleed OK. .

Classic immobilser connector micro-corroded as above - wd40 my friend. .

Official Corrado VW workshop manuals that were always were supplied in bright blue plastic folders. @ Steve, found the same high torque in the 1994 VR6 Passat arrangement in VW's Passat manual. In that manual it points to... and shows all three 5, 6 & 7 at 80Nm! Trouble is.... if VW change the part 15 years later the manuals are not updated if the torque limits change. Bit naughty really as the bolt should be upto the orginal design requirement or better not less. .

Checked the Haynes Passat, that states 80Nm - 59 lbf/ft The centre one is definitely 25NM in the VW Corrado Blue manual but it doesn't show the outer two bolts 5 & 7. But reading the text its plural. So does that mean either side "6" or all six bolts???? " Install engine carrier -4- and tighten securing bolts -3- to 25Nm" Where -4- is the end of the engine carrier frame and -3- is a centre bolt only shown, bolt "6". It then states "Tighten engine carrier/bumper securing bolts to 85Nm" with no reference to a diagram. As the whole instruction is about renewing the rubber inserts, it make no mention of removing the bumper in whose diagram it shows two bolts each side at 80Nm. Nor does the whole section which is VR6 engine removal. So, I read it as the centre bolt "6" is a pilot holding bolt and the second VW statement above is the two outer bolts 5 & 7 on each side. Plus this cross member is an integral part of the Corrado's front strength and 80Nm does not surprise me for that reason. Sure the bolt wasn't corroded round the neck area which may have weakened it? .

Said it wasn't clear in the VW manuals. Bummer. Looks like all three 5, 6 & 7 are 25Nm despite differences in bolt diameter but its NOT VERY CLEAR in the text that its refering to all three bolts!. The wording is not clear in VWs blue book and it only becomes apparent in another sub - manual. That one refers to bolts at 85Nm that are the bumper bracket - 2 x 2 bolts. Apologies. . .

M10, in that case its 85Nm As it states tighten all engine carrier to bumper mounting to 85NM and "5" is also M10. .

Not the clearest to find. 5 85Nm 6 25Nm 7 Can't find listed. The text implies 85Nm (My view 85Nm if its the same diameter bolt as 5. .

Not a problem :) .

Yes you need to do it with VCDS. Where are you? Up by the railway next to the M67 on the Glossop side of Hyde? .

All my six cylinders were like that when I took the sump pan off at 35,000 miles :scratch: .