RW1

My understanding is that this generates the size of the stand area. Check Eric.

Thats normal for a late VR. .

That one above doesn't look like a chipped ignition key. Too rounded and moulded rubber. They look like below, with or without key light and are made of hard plastic. .

There are four part numbers for that depending on which 16v engine code. .

Don't understand. :scratch: If you can bridge the yellow connection as before and it runs the aux pump & rad fan when the ignition is off, then all that circuit is fine including the FCM. To me it means the thermoswitch unit (was yellow, now black) in the thermostat housing is not working. Test it like a thermostat in hot water and see if its contacts close to make a circuit. .

You want 358 611 019D for RHDrive Chassis MK014975 onwards. "7" is LH Drive Passat. (Originally fitted it was 358 611 019B) .

Earlier post clue ......"will a vr6 exhaust from the cat back fit on to a 2.0 8v?" .

Long travel (down to halfway) usually suggest that one circuit of the brakes has failed. ie. the master cylinder. If it was pedal pumped rather than vacuum/pressure fed during bleeding to remove the old fluid, then the old rubber seals of a master cylinder can heat up and fail. Braking will still be even-ish as thats what its design to do but performance will be down. .

eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220505500573&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT @ jakegti Why don't you ask this guy. I reckon £60 - £70 and its most likely the original supplier to VW if can source one. .

I deal with the guy all the time. Top notch Ebayer, good parts but not always VW stamped. .

Glad to hear! WD40 I take it and bit of working the connection to push aside the corrosion? Mine is usually good for about 7 years. .

If built from chassis SK000719 onwards, it has a "chipped" key. New key will need to be added to the Corrados ignition immobiliser using diagnostics such as VCDS (VAGCOM). Your copy of VCDS will need to be fully authorised to get the functionality it needs. The "Freeware" versions will not do it. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_I_Key_Matching_(Separate) .

I find it quite strange that peeps here think the Gamma is original for a UK spec Corrado. Or original to the Corrado. Each VW market for the Corrado had its own ICE set up supplied at delivery. UK is as said were Panasonic/Sony. The UK Corrado brochures are doctored to hell. VW were lazy (and still are) in taking new photos of a RHDrive Corrado to incorporate into the brochure. The spec sheet for UK states: - No ICE stated as standard equipment (1989 - 1991), just stated a "stereo radio cassette is offered as standard". What was offered was Panasonic/Sony. - Sony XR5451 (1992) - Sony XR5509 (1993 - 1995) except for the Storm which was Sony CDX600DSP. If anything else was fitted UK wise around: 1993 - 1994, then the dealership had a choice of: Sony CDX5460 Radio/CD Sony CDX5060 Radio/CD Sony CDX-U303/U404 CD Jukebox (10 CD in either) Sony DJ704 Radio/Cassette (XR7041) + Jukebox (CDX70) (10 CDs) Sony XR-U500 Radio/Cassette Sony XR-U401 Radio/Cassette Sony XR-U301 Radio/Cassette 1994 - 1995, then the dealership had a choice of: Sony MDX150RDS Radio/Mini Disc Player Sony CDX600DSP Radio/CD Sony XRC510 Radio/Cassette Sony CDX5090 Radio/CD Sony XRC620 Radio/Cassette Sony XR3209 Radio Cassette Sony XR6459 Radio Cassette Sony XR6659 Radio Cassette Sony CDX5290 Radio CD Sony CDX71 or 91 CD Jukebox (6? or 10 CDs) Sony MDX40 MiniDisc Sony RM-X1S or RM-X2S Joystick control By this time in 1993, Panasonic had lost the contract to supply ICE to VW(UK). .

They are clipped in. Lift the bonnet. Disconnect the washer fluid tube. Put your finger on the rear edge nearest the windscreen. Squeeze the whole edge forwards while also pushing upwards out the the bonnet. Each should pop through the bonnet to the top side. Disconnect the wire connector and pull the wire and connetor through the hole. .

Doesn't exist on the Corrado factory fit immobiliser. The immobiliser box just attempts to read the key's chip with the ignition barrel sensor ring each time a start is attempted. .

When you want to add a key or the immobiliser box or ECU is changed. .

Have you tried the tested method off WD40 soaking the transponder reader connection at the transponder box inside the dash? If not, put some WD40 on the connection pins (3 pins/sockets). Gently side the connection a few times to remove corrossion. The WD40 will continue to seal afterwards. There is no resync necessary. All that will be reported in the diagnostics is code 17978 - "Engine Control Unit Blocked". This doesn't prevent an attempt to restart the engine again immediately if the ignition key transponder is able to handshake with the transponder box inside the dash.. The fault code can only be cleared using VCDS. .

The temp settings are 93'C/88'C for the Yellow (black) sensor switch for the run-on fan and aux pump to trigger . If I get my coolant down to 90'C before stopping the engine, the run-on doesn't trigger. If you want to be sure...... - Bridge the connector pins 1 & 3 with ignition off and check the aux pump and fans come on. - Also put the yellow (black) thermoswitch/temp sender in water above 95'C and see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 3. If not = u/s. The aux. pump / rad fans run not as a timed duration but as long as the thermoswitch is made. The third stage fan is not triggered by the radiator thermo switch in the radiator side wall, but is in the far left sensor in the thermostat housing. Triggers around 112'C and you will know its on! To get that condition its German autoban speed driving and coming to a sudden halt or a tuned engine eg. supercharger. Never managed thaty on mine yet, even on the hottest days we've had here in the UK. .

Yes, you are quite right the blue is ECU, my typo. Yellow sensor. The rest is correct otherwise in VR6Pete post above the aux pump and rad fan would not both run when pins 1 & 3 were bridged in the plug. Temp range as specified. .

The fan/pump usually run on for ten minutes if the engine is over warm. If you drive the engine until it cools at little at lesser speeds. The pump & rad fans don't come on after the ignition is switch off. Because the coolant temp has dropped enough. So in this condition, pins 1 & 3 haven't been bridged by the thermo switch itself. The temp settings are 93'C/88'C. If I get my coolant down to 90'C before stopping the engine, the run-on doesn't trigger. Put the blue thermoswitch/temp sender in water above 95'C and see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 3. If not = u/s. .

Nothing special. Just gloss black paint as said above. Like the rest of the black chassis parts in the main. Exceptions being the drive shafts are nylon coated iirc. .

It made by Bosch in this case but other sensor parts are SWF. .

You say the rad fan kicks in while the engine is running. That is governed by the rad thermo switch embedded in the radiator side wall. Does it kick in if the engine is really hot when the engine/ignition is switched off? If not check/replace the blue dual sensor in the thermostat housing. This should bring on the rad fan and also the aux pump. Pins 1 across 4 are the thermo switch for the aux pump. Pins 2 across 3 are the sender for the dash water temp guage. .

Ought to make this a trick pub quiz question lol. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91757 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?40801-Random-Black-amp-Yellow-Wire&highlight=oil+pressure+yellow http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65910&p=766368&hilit=+wire#p766368 .

There are two in line connectors in the wire back to the fan conmtroller 5amp fuse. From the pump end wire is red with black stripe, engine connection plug, the red with black stripe again, connection behind th erelay plate, then black with red stripe to the fan controller unit connection. Also check the earth (brown) wire goes to earth electrically. If all OK, then change fan controller. .