RW1

Yep, agree with Kevhaywire which why I asked. Tend to find all VW's run hotter with a 50%/50% mix. 70/30..... south of Watford Gap only! Take a look at the auxiliary water pump. May be worth while taking it off and check it's actually pumping.

What's the coolant mix ratio your putting in each time?

Agree with Joe M as OK except the left. Left camber is to far out for a VR6 and it's power. The right front is OK and more desirable with a stiffened suspension. You'll get inside tyre wear above the norm with the left on that setting. Ideal with stiffened suspension is -1' 10" and -1'20" on a normal VW suspension for a VR6. (Other engine sizes vary from this). The back figures although not balanced are quite normal for any C leaving the factory new. Toe should ideally be 0.00 to 0.02 toe out but that will get changed if you move the left side camber back to -1'10" to -1'20" depending on the suspension as above. So if you do change the left camber, ask the toe to be set to a slight toe out (+1'). VR6 is very sensitive to variations as wide as the Bentley above...... I've had one inner bald tyre to the fabric inside 100 miles at 70mph due to setting the front on opposite extremes and a combination of hot tyres one side due to the sun and cold on the other side in the shadow. Basically that day, the right front drove true and dragged the left pointing out left along the motorway (as the tracking was +6" toe out combined with too much camber) due to different adhesion levels due to cold and warm tyres. (Garages - Nottingham way!). The above left camber problem you have won't generate this.

No ECU / ABS Valve block matching necessary on Corrado VR6. As before, check the sensors and the valve block plug. Fairly rare for the block to go unless you've hit the brakes very hard and locked the wheels despite the ABS.

£1k -ish for new items

Camshaft Position Sensor is part number 021 907 601A.

Do two things before the valve block as ABS faults can be misleading. Check all the wheel sensor resistances are OK. They should measure 1.2kohm +/- 0.3kohm across the contacts. Connections: Fronts at the wheel hubs, rears under the rear seat squabs. Next pull the connector on the lower edge centre of the valve block and WD40 it and the valve block end. There's a VW bulletin on this. Be aware the valve block is very high pressure, even when off. Pump the brake pedal at least 30 times to exhaust the internal pressures if you intended getting that far with the valvbe block.

As far as I know there are only two ways that fault code gets to be visible in the ECU memory. 1. You read the ECU with diagnostics while the engine ignition was ON and the engine not started. 2. The ECU was read for fault codes after the engine stopped with the this fault but the ignition hasd't yet been turned off. On OBD1 cars like the Corrado, the 00513 fault is not surpressed with just the ignition switched on. It is surpressed on OBD2 VW's post 1995. On starting and running the engine, assuming the crankshaft sensor is an intermittant fault, the ECU will clear the code. So it proves a difficult fault to find with diagnostics unless you can catch it at the time the engine stops with the ignition still on. Common problem with this sensor on the VR6 for it to go intermittant before total failure.

Just check in the brake reservoir that the fluid level is upto the arrow mark near the top. The clutch fluid feed is off the nearside about one third down from the top. If the brake fluid level is low, this is uncovered and introduces air into the clutch system release.

It's only on later VR6 engines with a coil pack. Nearside top side cover of the camshaft cover. You may need to take more of the surrounding top engine cover panels off. A star key drive needed to take out the bolts or improvise. To physically get it out, the coil pack needs to be out of the way, allen key head bolts hold the pack in. 3 wire connector. Who ever is changing it. The limp home mode (retarded ignition timing) and lower rev limiter setting will not clear until the fault code 00515 is cleared out of the engine ECU.

Got an engine number? Was the loom and fuse box the engine's original?

That looks like one of the six Campaigns. Can't quite make out the registration.

Still got the old radio? I so, did you take out the little box or short tube connected to the aerial socket which had a single fly lead. If so, you have removed the aerial amplifier's isolator which supplies +12 volts up the centre signal wire to the aerial base but not the radio (uses a high frequency capacitor to isolate the DC from the radio input connection). Later Corrado's power their aerial amplifier in the mast base by putting +12 volts up the aerial wire while isolating this from the radio. I assume radio reception particularly on MW & LW was OK before changing the installation?? If the little devide was missing then FM would have be a bit weak and MW/LW almost none existant.

Hi, When you had the head skimmed, did it get "cleaned" properly afterwards. If not, the the small arteries may have become blocked with small "bits" or the bits are now in the small feeds in the tappets themselves. Fitting new tappets may only last a while if the oil feeds are not clean. The other thing to check is oil pressure. 2 bar (30psi) at idle and 4 bar (60psi) at 2,500 rpm plus as a guide with the engine warmed up based on 15w40 oil. May be be worth just using flushing oil to see if it will free up the tappets. If not and oil pressure is OK, then you know it's a tappet replacement job.

Hi MarkieVW, Get someone to plug VAG-COM in and look at the engine ECU. That symptom is similar to the the camshaft position sender. The fault code is 00515. Common VR6 component failure, easy to change and costs about £40 for the part. If it is this, you will also find the rev limiter kicks in low at just around 5,800 rpm. The engine is effectively in "limp home mode" to protect the valve gear. Feels like you're driving on 5 cylinders with a slight roughness. After replacing the part if it has gone faulty, usually intermittant and triggered by higher range of revs, the fault code needs to be cleared to get the ECU out of limp home mode.

Dr Mat. The first half of the procedure is purely to get the Lambda probe idle, mid and high rprm range settings bedded in quickly as they are lost on loss of electrical supply to the ECU. The ECU does some of this in the first 10 minutes then adopts a monitoring/ fine adjustment from then on but it does take upwards of 30 mins to determine all three preset "offset" values to the ECU map in the ECU memory. So Basic Settings shouldn't really be performed immediately after a battery disconnection, allowing at least one hour of driving before hand. The second part of the procedure harmonises the ECU to the sensors and the importantly the throttle position sensor. Doesn't have a motorised throttle persay but it still needs to know where the throttle is. Some VR6's don't seem to bothered but others do, so presumably it's a tolerance thing. The most noticable effect of this procedure is the accelerator dead spot at idle is minimised and the true VR6 sweetness is acheived. ************************************************************* ie. this part of the precedure: ENGINE ECU BASIC SETTING Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure engine oil temperature is above 85øC (185øF). Ensure Air Conditioning and other electrical loads are switched off, including the radiator cooling fan (NB Does not matter if radiator fan operates during “Basic Setting” 2 minute period.) Connect the VAG 1551 to diagnostics socket located in centre console, to the front of gear shift lever under the cover surround. Ensure no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are stored for the engine ECU. Let the engine run at closed throttle - idle (typically 640 - 690 RPM). Operate VAG1551 using the following sequences and observe the displays:- VAG1551: Select address word - 01 (Engine) VAG-COM: Select 01 - Engine Key 04 - Basic Setting, press Q to confirm entry. Select Basic Settings - 04 Key 0012 - Display group 001, press Q to confirm entry. Key 0012 - Display group 001, press “Go!” System now in “Basic Setting”. System now in “Basic Setting”. Increase the engine speed to 2,500 rpm for 3 seconds. Increase the engine speed to 2,500 rpm for 3 seconds. Allow to idle for 2 minutes. Check CO level. Allow to idle for 2 minutes. Check CO level. When radiator fan is NOT running, Press , 06, Q When radiator fan is NOT running, “Done, Go Back”. Motronic M2.9 ECU Group 001 Motronic M2.7 ECU Group 000 Field 1: Engine RPM - 680rpm (Allowable 650–750rpm). Field 1: Coolant Temperature - 185, below 210 corresponds 85øC to 99øC Field 2: Coolant Temp.- above 85øC, typically 92øC/98øC. Field 3: Engine RPM - 65, below 75, corresponds to 650 – 750rpm. Field 3: Active Lambda - 1.00 + 0.2 Field 10: Ignition Timing - 85 to 91, slowly fluctuating +0.02 max, corresponds to 4ø to 8ø BTDC. 2 second period, typically. Field 4: Ignition Timing - 6.00ø + 1ø, fluctuating slightly. (2 Motronic ECUs at M2.7 software standard use group 000 for “Basic Setting”, ECU part no. 021 906 258B, BF, CC ) (2 Motronic ECUs at M2.9 software standard use group 001 for “Basic Setting”, ECU part no. 021 906 258AG & CP ) (NB. Basic setting places the ECU into a specific offset condition from which the engine sensors can be measured.) ********************************************************* Basic Settings is in the 20,000 or 40,000 miles VW service schedule (can't remember off hand), so the technician after finishing all other tasks should perform this before returning the Corrado to the owner. (Not the Battery disconnect though!). It never does any harm to do it on a Corrado VR6 but cut the procedure short of what is written and stalling may be even worse as the ECU hasn't sampled enough data points.

Cut-out like this (or at lights or roundabouts) is likely to be caused because "BASIC SETTINGS" on the ECU has not been performed following a battery disconnect. Therefore the throttle body and Engine ECU aren't aligned. Seems to happen on the Corrado VR6s (particularly on distributorless late models) due to the low idle rev point combined with overrun. It somehow looses the exact idle position and before the ECU can recover the situation, the engine stalls. (This assumes that the engine is generally in good fettle and particularly the ISV is operating normally [no fluctuating revs at idle - 680 rpm [650 - 750rpm is normal but must be rock solid on whatever revs]]) Carry out the second half of the ECU reset procedure covering basic settings in Knowledge Base. No need to perform the battery diconnect and drive procedure.

ABS light on start up for 1 to 2 seconds is normal. Has the Corrado been on a rolling road at any time? If so, because the rear wheels are stationary, these sorts of faults get generated.

Sequence etc is here, nothing special. Servo pipe wouldn't affect pedal. If anything if leaking, pedal would be harder to push due to leaked vacuum. I think "pedal hits the floor with engine running" suggests the servo working and giving pedal assist. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Q's 1. Damage component like u say. 2. Master cylinder gone in some way on both circuits. 3. Fluid is DOT 4 and not silicon DoT5

ATF Fluid with Camera - ! No it's been a long since I saw the inside of one of these boxes. I've attached a diagram to help you based on the late Golf Mk3 Autobox which is very similar. I hope you have exhausted all other avenues before getting physical with the innards.

Fla. 1a. “This is a circuit film strip embedded in one side of the valve block (partly visible) inside the autobox above the boxes’s sump pan (best left until all else is checked and you drain the ATF oil).” On the underside of the autobox there is a broad shallow & flat sump pan. Obviously the Autobox is drained of ATF. The pan is held on by 4 bolts (the sump gasket will need to be renewed). When the pan is removed, this will reveal another pan plate (screen), the autobox’s valve block sitting inside behind this on the underside of the boxes’s innards and occupying an area almost as big as the sump pan’s breadth & length. Yet another replaceable gasket when the plate comes off. To the outer side of the valve block ie. the nearside wheel & parallel to it. There should be visible a narrow circuit film strip like the the film strips on the back of some instrument clusters such as the early Golfs and the Scirocco Mk2. About half way along the film strip part that is embedded into the valve block (not half way along the whole strip inside the box) but still partly visible is the temperature sensor. It looks like a resistor and is directly attached to the film strip. The film strip will run off the valve block to the sealed plug assembly in the autobox sidewall and hence onto the car’s wiring loom. The loom connection should be visible on the under side the autobox. I think you should only try to get into this part of the autobox only if the sensor has failed to give a reading using VAG-COM measuring blocks screen as per the previous note. Gasket Part No – Sump pan This is either 095 321 370 or 371 depending on the car. Gasket Part No – pan plate This is 095 325 443A 1b. Top side connectors are not involved. 2. Right thoughts, actuals slightly different. With ignition on, engine not started. Select the Auto Trans 02. Select 04 Basic Settings. Key 000 in display group. Press the acclerator to the kick-down position and hold for 3 seconds. Release the accelerator and exit VAG-COM neatly all the way out to the start screen. I have my doubts about this being the solution to the wheeze, that could be the valve block sequencing.

That's a bit of a sloppy job! I would get the crank, intermediate shaft (drive oil pump & distributor) and camshaft timing alignments rechecked. It may not be the distributor that's out of position but the camshaft relative to the crank. No damage to the valves or piston will occur with just one tooth out but is that what has happened?? If the exhaust valves are still slightly open depending on where the valve timing is relative to the crank/pistons, valve burning can occur over a period of time. Talking about over 10 or say 20,000 miles so it won't go bust tomorrow. Yes, performance can drop off quite a lot because not only has the valve timing changed but the ignition timing has also changed. But for what you describe it could be two teeth out.

OK, TPS fault code 00518 does need to be fixed. In an automatic box Corrado, this signal from the throttle is also used by the Autobox TCM (ECU). So it will influence how the autobox TCM makes decisions to change gear. The things to do here are first to clear the fault code and see if it returns as installing the new one my have led to this being triggered but is now not a fault condition. If that has already been done and these faults are reappearing, then look at the following: Check the Throttle Position Sensor fault code 00518 by looking for an open circuit wire connection or grounding of any of the wires. The autobox 00638 code is pointing to a small temperature sensor built into the circuit film strip as part of the autobox valve block. Looks like a small resistor. It isn’t a spares item from VAG. The repair is through the replacement of the whole valve block unless you find an autobox specialist who may be able do something in the workshop. First thing to check is the 10 way connector on the rear lower side of the autobox which connects the valve block control film strip circuit to the car’s wiring loom. Also check the circuit film for damage to the circuit tracks. This is a circuit film strip embedded in one side of the valve block (partly visible) inside the autobox above the boxes’s sump pan (best left until all else is checked and you drain the ATF oil). Next check the oil temp sender by going into the VAG-COM and selecting Auto Trans 02, Measuring Blocks. Enter in one of the Groups fields "005". With the car stationary and engine running at idle and warmed up, check the autobox oil temp in field 1 (most left box) of the four fields is between 50 & 70’C (sensor field only starts reading above 40’C). If not reading or the temperature range reading cannot be achieved, then either the wiring is suspect from/in the car loom or the temp sensor G93 on the valve block circuit film is duff. Also check fuses 14, 16 & 21 are OK and each has 12 volts when the car has started. Check for loose earth wire connections on the earth points around the fuse relay plate area on the bodywork. NB. It the battery has been disconnected, then the autobox needs to be taken through “Basic Settings” otherwise autobox gear changes can and usually behave erratically.

Fla, Give me the DTC fault code and I'll see what the code links to for checks.

TCM lives in the base (cavity) of the driver's door pillar/frame behind the kick panel. Same equivalent position as the brake ABS controller in the passenger side.