RW1

"Worth adding in that the VR cambelt is particularly hard to change? " VR6 - "VR cambelt"- I presume you mean the visible ribbed belt on the offside of the engine driving the alternator etc. In the above text, that came under "all belts and brake pads/discs are all inspect and replace as required". In otherwords check the belt for ageing, cracking and general condition. I haven't seen a life on the ribbed belt but one could summise that 60,000 miles for a change point/things deteriorating. The VR6 cams are chain driven (erm, as I think is generally known) and as far as VW are concerned the chains are unbustable - m* a***! Life of the cam drive chains is dependant on a lot of things but there are a few simple rules to follow to minimise the major bank account snatch. Service the engine regulalrly with good oil (service history counts here). Failures have been known as low as 80,000 miles but hey, if you don't service the engine, what can you expect. Generally above 120,000 miles the failures seem to be more apparent but again it is service history that plays it part. The general life of the chains is about 150,000 miles but this mileage value is by no means a must. Chains in a well looked after engine can go much longer and 200,000 plus isn' unknown now the VR6 Corrado as it is getting older. Other influencing factors are the chain tensioners. These are the weaker components and may need replacing a lot earlier than the timing chains. It's difficult to inspect the whole chain system so it is a bit of gritting u're teeth and driving, maintaining a good service record with the oil and doing inspections of the tensioner and chains when opportunities arise such as a clutch change. If such an opportunity arises above 100k, providing the chains are OK, then change both tensioners for piece of mind. As the tensioners are oil pressure fed, a good oil pressure from the pump is desirable, hence why I pointed to 15w40 above. So the oil pump needs to be in good condition. Their useful life is around 100k miles as well again service history counts but also the grade of oil regularly used. Pump output at the oil filter head should read/acheive about 1 to 2 bar (15 - 30 psi) with a fully warmed up engine and about 3.5 - 4 bar (50 - 60 psi) at 2,500 - 3,000 rpm. Cos the tensioners are oil pressured, unless you absolutely have to, never bump start a VR6. The chain is slack as the tensioners don't receive oil pressure right away and therefore the engine can "jump" cog tooth on the chains putting the valve gear out of sync.

The official UK Corrado (including VR6) in standard unmodified form is an oil/filter change is every 10,000 miles. If mileage is below 10,000 per year then the 12 month inspection falls into play which changes the oil/filter irrespective of oil condition. Then there is a major service at 20,000 miles intervals at which effectively the car gets a full check up. At 2 years the brake fluid gets picked up for change. Spark plugs replaced at 20,000 miles. Airfilter (paper), all belts and brake pads/discs are all inspect and replace as required. Cambelts best changed out at 40,000 miles although VW state a safe life of 60,000 miles, particularly the 16v engines due to the extra loads in this engine on the cam belt. Paper airfilters are technically usually past it by 10,000 miles but tend to be more efficient at fine particle removal (more important on a G60) than cone type filters. Also, the oiled type aftermarket filters such as K&N can foul up the MAF sensor due to blown oil off the filter leading to engine poor running. Oil change on a G60 is more critical as the oil is used in the supercharger bearings. Dirty oil helps to fail the oil seals in the charger leading to dirt/oil paste build up on the vanes, hence the charger blowing up as this sludge increases friction on the "G" vanes and strains/snaps the little drive belt on the original type built supercharger. Particulalry if the engine is suddenly free revved out of gear for instance. Therefore "Supercharged" is wise to respect his oil change regime at 3,000 miles on a G60 to keep it clean of fine combustion particles, but not required on the VR6. Use good 15w40 oil of the semi or fully synthetic type, the engines weren't designed for running with 10W40 or 5w40 or definitely not 0w40 in our climate temperatures of 0'C - 25'C. (Seen too many early oil pump failures with 0w40, particularly Mobil 1!). Economy will probably lead to use of the semi synthetic oil type on cost v increased frequency. The original paper airfilter in a G60 may be a better option changed out every 5,000 miles or make sure the aftermarket one does really clean the air entering the supercharger/engine and not just the stones! The schedules also call for lots of other visusal checks and do if necessary around the car. Most are common sense items. Any dealer will have a list of these at their service desk which you can use as a check list, just ignore those items not fitted to you Corrado. Generally the sheets cover the full service as required at 20,000 miles.

"Redline MT90 is 75w90." Not quite the right oil though. Good general fit so to speak but G51 is a higher temperature spec'd gearoil than normal particulalry as the VR6 will work the gearbox hard. VW have just specified it for the lesser powered engines for commonality. MT90 oil will be generally OK with the "as built" powered 8v, 16v & possibly the G60. MT90 is the equivalent of VW's G50 gear oil which used as the alternative to EP80 in the 020 rod change gearboxes on the Mk1/2 Golf/Scirocco. G50 is a fully synthetic 75w90 gearoil as well. Redline have no equivelent to G52 as far as I can determine. _lean_ G60 same quantity as above, just under 2.0 ltrs. All Corrado gearboxes take the same amount of oil.

16v is 60,000 miles according to VW. BUT, the 16v valve gear is harder to drive than an 8v/G60 due the double cam shaft and the remote chain drive for the second camshaft. The weakness is sudden throttle (blipping) which forces the crank shaft sprocket drive to rip the belt's teeth off and the engine stops obviously. You may get away with the valves & pistons not being damged but better safe than sorry. Better to change out at 40,000 miles thus keeping the belt in tip-top condition. Also, pay attention to the belt tension and be more precise on it's setting up and check it every 10,000 miles. The rule with the 16v both the 1.8 & 2.0 ltr is - if in doubt about the belt's mileage, CHANGE and maintain the above maintenance regime. Changing it is pretty cramped and needs reasonable mechanical knowledge but there are no real complications. As the steering pump and water pump belts will also come off for access, replace these for the price that they are while you are in there. Make sure the cam belt is aligned correctly by hand turning the engine one full revolution, making sure the timing marks align at the end of turning and no valves have touched - hard to turn in cetain spots with plugs removed. Even out by one sprocket on the top camshaft deteriorates the performance. Oil, peeps have their preferences for manufacturer but make sure it's 15w40 for the is engine, summer or winter. Filter, VW is fine 034 115 561A or equivalent from GSF but 561G will do for normal road driving (A allows more oil flow).

It's an earthed sheild coonection for the ECU - Probe connection loom and goes to ground inside the ECU loom side. The lambda probe wiring may also be sheilded and there is possibly a matching black wire but neither pass through the connector. On late Corrados the wire isn't used. So, if there isn't a fifth wire on the probe wiring loom side, just stow it so it doesn't earth any adjacent wires. If there is a fifth wire on the probe side and it's black, then you need to determine which black wire is the sheild wire and which is in the loom as a wire by visual inspection. Double check it does go to earth by testing it for going to earth (chassis anywhere) with a resistance meter. It earths inside the loom.

Problem with the brake ECU, sometimes it throws odd faults as a wheel sensor goes down. As a new VAG-COM user, note that faults are stored are undated and can remain in the memory for quite a while depending on your use of the Corrado. They are supposed to self clear after 30 ish engine starts but I've yet to see that, such are the querks of the early diagnostics (all digital Corrados 1991 - 1995). So some of what of you noted could have occurred as the wheel sensor went out of spec before going to a hard fault. If starting to use diagnostics generally and you don't know the Corrado's fault history, then note the faults, clear the memory (and drive around for a couple of days if an intermittent fault), observe what reappears. Deal with that first. In this case, yes I think you'll find it was a dying wheel sensor on the front left. The resistance check has confirmed that. The back, just check in a few days and watch the ABS light for signs of something happening. Now for your fun unless the old sensor is already off the Corrado!

Black wire. Is that the lambda black wire or another spare wire? OK, if “black wire” refers to the lambda probe black wire….. Wiring beyond the connector under brake servo ECU connection side... pin 1 - red with white stripe wire goes to the lambda heating relay pin 8 (12 volts probe heating). Relay number on the case is 53. Sits at the fuse relay plate but not on it. It’s floating up above in the wiring. pin 2 - brown wire goes to earth inside the ECU loom. pin 3 - yellow wire goes to ECU’s connector pin 42. pin 4 - white wire goes to ECU’s connector pin 20.

Generally Conlog alarms were OK but they went bust in about 1999 - 2000. Therefore the alarms do not conform to the Cat 1 etc at Thatcham anymore. Insurance recognition problems for acceptance and discounts etc. are the consequence of this. Older alarm systems are harder to program (pre 1996) as the support equipement and procedures weren't simple. Plus only one in four VW dealers were Conlog, the majority were Scorpion.

4 way connector. looks a five way connector but one is a dummy. pins are numbered 1, ,2,3,4. Probe end pin 1 - white wire ) heater wire, non specific orientation pin 2 - white wire ) heater wire, non specific orientation pin 3 - grey wire pin 4 - black wire ECU end pin 1 - red with white stripe wire pin 2 - brown wire pin 3 - yellow wire pin 4 - white wire

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&start=15 explains

Is this just a rattling gear stick on the overrun or is there real noises from the gearbox in the engine bay?

VR6 Gearbox oil is higher temprature oil specification. Known as G51 75w90 at VW dealers (Part No. G005100A1). Plenty in stock at VAG Spares when I checked 2 weeks ago. 2.0 ltrs required, of which all but the last 0.2 lires will go into the box. Cost, about £35 and comes in 0.5ltr packs = 4 required. 17mm allen key required but can use a tight fitting bolt head with double locked nuts inorder to use a plain wrench/spanner. Car on level ground, undo the threaded plug on the underside of the gearbox and drop out the oil while it's still warm. When finshed draining, refit the plug. Now undo the threaded plug on the front vertical face of the gearbox and put into the gearoil until the oil is level with the lower lip of the filling hole. Allow to settle for 30 minutes so that all the air bubles can surface. Check level still at the lower filling hole lip. Do not force the remaining oil into the gearbox (0.2 ltrs) as this will cause pressure problems with the seals. When finsihed, refit the threaded plug. Torques for both threaded plugs is 25 Nm or 18 ft lb. The gear oil is fitted for life of the Corrado, Upto 1992 it was EP80 hypoid oil, after this, the original oil was synthetic G51. The recommended replacement oil including those fitted with EP80 hypoid is the G51. Whilst "for life" is VW's view with the gear oil, I suggest that it is changed every 100,000 miles.

You're right dr_mat. The Golf ECU and Corrado ECU are essentially the same box, doesn't mean they will interchange though. If the immobiliser is at fault, the ECU should report the "immobilser/ECU blocked" fault code 17***. If not, then I would be a little sceptic that it is the immobilser circuit. The fact the engine runs for 5 seconds is too long for the immobiliser/ECU problem. This usually cuts the engine inside 1 to 2 seconds if the ECU hasn't completed full authorisation. Just try WD40 on the ignition key sensor connection at the immobiliser box inside the dash behind the headlight switch. This connection is the source of the majority of problems with 1995 - 1997 cars. (Normally this will show as a fault in the ECU so no fault code suggests it isn't the problem but worth eliminating al the same). Engine speed sensor, yeah won't start if it's duff and gone completely but I've known several to fail intermitently but regular like this - nope.

OK, offside to nearside on thermostat housing. Yellow is dual - 4 pins. Radiator fan control & dash temperature gauge sender. Pins 1 & 4 are the radiator fan (thermoswitch). Pins 2 & 3 are the dash temp sender - reasonable resistance (variresistor). Wiring colours are different for each model year. Middle sensor - blue 2 pins, is the ECU temp sender. Nearside is a blank unless Aircon is fitted. If fitted it is a 4 pin brown sensor.

6 miles, 24 - 28mpg. That isn't too bad as the VR6 takes 12 minutes to fully warm up. Check out a long run 200 miles before you do anything. Expect to get 30 - 32mpg at a steady 65 - 70 mph.

A single black wire means your Corrado early non digital diagnostics. Therefore it uses voltage pulses ("blink codes") to show singularly the 4 digit fault codes. VAG-COM will not work with it. The Bentley manual covers this in full detail. "If the two diagnostics sockets (Black/White) have either 1, 2 or 3 wires only attached, then the car is analogue and VAG-COM cannot interface with them. These cars use "blink" codes (grouped voltage pulses) in a primative way to throw out the faults out, one at a time. " http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... ght=vagcom

Autobox MPG is only slightly less than the manuals. So 21 mpg is real poor unless this is very short drives of 2 to 4 miles each time. Suggests that either the there's something wrong with the torque convertor or the engine itself has problems. Have you checked out the engine ECU for fault codes. Low mpg could be due to either the lambda probe not working or a ECU temperature sender is faulty.

You have an electrical fault. That symptom usually occurs when the temperature sensor or the signal wire to the dash guage has grounded somewhere. Check the wires and more likely, check the sensor for a short on the pins.

In the paper copy of the B. the coil pack is dealt with as a supplement at the back of the manual. Look at these on the CD.

Corrado - Matching the ECU to Immobiliser Immobiliser Part No.: 1HO 953 257 series Authorised ignition key (existing key) required. Diagnostics using VAG-COM. Connect the VAG-COM PC to the Corrado diagnostics connector. Switch the ignition ON. Select “Select” Select “Immobiliser” 25 * Select “Adaptation” 10 Enter “00” for channel 0 Press “Read” Press “Save” Press the following: “Done, Go Back” “Close Controller” “Go Back” ( *as many times as required to reach top programme start display) “Exit” Switch the ignition OFF. * - depends on which version of VAG-COM to reach this selection point. Note: 1. The identity of the engine control unit (ECU) is read into the immobiliser control unit when next switching the ignition on (using the original programmed car ignition key obviously!). The engine should start and run normally from this point on, ie the immobilser had “learned” the ECU fitted. 2. Reversing the ECU to the original requires the same procedure to be performed. 3. Coding a key to the ECU immobiliser or adding an extra key requires a 7 digit dealer generated SKC sequence unless the original 4 digit SKC is known. Without this SKC, it is impossible to match ignition keys using any VW diagnostics.

turbomagikz, Speed sensor is on the gearbox but if this is u/s, then the speedo won't be working. Check fuse 16 is OK. Spoiler working confirms fuse 21 is OK. If not these fuses, then have you done any electrical work in the radio slot recently? If so, if you connected up the blue wire, this is not the aerial connection. It's a tee'd wire from the speed sensor circuit to provide automatic volume control to some VW made radios. This wire should be left disconnected except for this connection purpose. As the switch is working on the underside of the dash, the next suspect is the spoiler control box part no. 535 919 845C for a late Corrado, on the inside of the dash behind the headlight switch.

I wouldn't disagree with your sequence, the above sequence is directly out of the VAG manual. I guess they haven't converted the text for the RHD although the section is for UK Corrados. I think its more to do with the fact that one compartment of the reservior can be emptied out of the top and so when bleeding with a refill bottle in the reservioir it forces new fluid into the compartment with the old. The old fluid going down through the master cylinder once the bleed valve is open. Both rear brake circuits are separate so it matters little which side is first unless you want to be squeeky clean.

Hi, It doesn't have one! Check the connector from the ignition key sensor at the immobiliser box fitted in the dash behind the headlight switch. Shiney black plastic cable with 3 wire. WD40 the connector.

The whole tensioner is 021 145 299B but it will bust the bank at £100+ If it is the defo the bearing and your upto a bit of detail work, then go to an engineering suppliers shop or similar and buy for £10 the bearing only. Part number: Type 6203LH.

If the wire is yellow with black stripe, then that circuit in the autobox is the starter inhibitor. The wire runs between the Autobox ECU and the starter inhibitor relay marked 150 on the top of the fuse panel but I guess this wire is tee'd off into the engine bay to save taking out all the drivers footwell trim to get at the back of the fuse relay plate or the ECU in the driver's door pillar when diagnosing the autobox / starter problems. It's also linked to the shifter lever position switches so presumably recognising the "P" position. It is not a VAG1551/VAG-COM connection. It is carrying a 12 volt on/off signal. Bottomline, tuck it away unconnected.