RW1

Classic immobiliser blocked by a bad connection. Drop the fuse/relay panel cover and the under dash cover on the drivers side. Up behind the headlight switch are a couple of black boxes. Follow the shiney black cable to the inboard plug connection on the bottom box of the stacked pair. Just slide the plug gently back & forth carefully cos of the fine pin connections. For longer term, spray the connector and box connection pins with WD40. The connector has gone high resistance - VW bulletin from 1997 for all VWs made 1995 to 1997 fitted with the key immobilisers. Later cars got gold plated pins to overcome this as have the replacement parts. Good luck

Dutch, 000? No, it's either 000 or 001 active when in Basic Settings mode depending on the Engine ECU fitted . On the C the only other things to dabble with in the Engine ECU are the fault codes, measuring blocks as shown and 03 Output Tests (Output tests not to be done while the C is moving under power!!). Measuring Blocks group 000 is not defined for the Corrado directly but each field in group 000 is a range of values and the workshop manual may say, start engine from cold, select MB Group 000 and check field "Z" goes from "X" to "Y" before the oil temperature reaches 80'C. The other Groups 001 to 006 are as labelled. VAG-COM was running with my label file in the attached illustration from Uwe Ross's VAG-COM website so the display on your PC may be different for some fields unless the 021 906 258 label file is loaded into the "labels" directory associated with VAG-COM. Output Tests lets you check that the six injectors are working electrically, checks the ISV electrically, Charcoal Filter Valve electrically, Lambda probe relay, exhasut gas recirc and two stage manifold change over. The Last three may not work depending on the C and it's components. My 1995 didn't but the relay is fitted, hmmmm.... Either silent clicks or the wiring diagram is telling me porkies. Output test can only be done once per interrogation of the ECU ie. Engine 01 selected. The ignition then has to be cycled off/on to reprime the ECU. Basically you turn the ignition on but don't start the engine, select 03 Output Tests. The screen will present you with a "Start/Next" button. Press it, then press the accelerator fully and release. Injector No.1 will fire 5 clicks rapidly, press the accelerator again fully and No.2 will do the same ..... upto No.6. After No.6 injector has clicked away, press the "Start/Next" again and the ISV will start to cycle at about 2 second intervals continuously until..... Press the "Start/Next" again and the Charcoal Filter valve will cycle. Press the "Start/Next" again and the Lambda Probe heating relay will tick (not mine though). Press the "Start/Next" again and the last two are Exhaust Gas Recirc valve and Two Stage manifold if either are fitted (not UK VR6 models). Exit via "Done/Go Back". To do it all again, the igniton must be switched off/on. Summary: Engine ECU - Fault Codes, Measuring Blocks 000 to 006, Basic Settings for ECU/Throttle matching, Output Tests. ABS ECU - Fault codes only. Key Immobiliser - Fault codes and Basic Settings for Key replacement, key & Engine ECU matching (post October 1994 C's with 021 906 258CP engine ECU immobiliser compatible standard fitted). Autobox ECU - Fault Codes, Measuring Blocks, groups 001 to 005, Basic Settings for Engine ECU-Auto ECU-Throttle matching. Thats the lot on the VR6 C. Other engined C's 1992 onwards have varying very different set-ups/checks for their engines (ie. 9A 16v, 2E 8v, ADY 8v) but the rest if fitted (ie. ABS, Auto & Immobiliser) are standard across the Corrado range. I think that's about it. C

Kev, Only two groups to use for Corrado VR6 when putting the engine ECU into "Basic Settings" depending on which part number as listed at the bottom of the knowledge procedure. The procedure is identical for either group selections. There isn't anything more for the Corrado VR6 so a sticky thread won't gain anything more IMHO, its all there in Knowledge Base. (Other VW's - later ones, well thet can be more fun as motorised throttles are involved.). Later Corrado 8v, 16v and the autobox are another game. The effect of basic settings is subtle and dependant on how far out the C is from the final position of the C's ECU optimum settings when all the inputs it looks at during Basic Settings are taken into account. Some cars the effects are mild, some can have quite a change. Dutch, In your case an ECU part number ending "AG" means selecting group 001 when in Basic Settings. Basic Settings does not affect the measuring blocks and there is no VAG-COM/VAG 1551 procedure to change or "zero" as the ECU hasn't got that facility. That's why the battery has to be disconnected for more than 5 seconds to make it forget. Chris

Yep, given the parts changed, disconnect battery, reconnect and drive. Do Basic Settings after a couple of hours running (engine stops/starting won't affect it as longs as the engine gets to operating temperature on each use) and the three lambda fixed settings in measuring blocks group 006 have appeared and settled.

Hi, Take a look at the two photos in relation to your C. Where the axle stands are is the points being refered to for the trolley jack lift point. The front is a plate with two bolts, jack over the rear bolt area where the axle stand is contacting. At the rear axle, keep it tucked in where the rear torsion arm meets the cross beam but watch where to put it on the passenger side as the brake compensator is tucked in there (easily visible). Kev indicated equally good lift points in his note.

Here for info is the VW Bulletin Supplement extract issued for the european workshop manual on suspension and steering. The first note clearly states. Note also how the tyre width has an impact on the prescribed length. The measurement can't be done on the car as the inner gaitor gets in the way, only a rough idea of the length is possible. I seem to remember the Bentley has a section similar but excludes the Corrado 16v as it wasn't sold in the USA. As above, if the left hand adjustment is done as a FULL all points alignment, I can't see a problem if it is adjusted slightly but using a simple tracking device on the front only, the nearside track rod shouldn't be adjusted. A lot of VW's were built with only an off-side adjusting trackrod, the nearside being non-adjustable.

It has a preset fixed length measured off the car before fitting. Thats' fine which is why I mentioned it but if older tracking equipment is used it can lead to "crabbing".

Probably for peace of mind, the best thing to do is a compression check and see if No6 is low.

Bit not numbered sitting above item 8. You can see the lock nut on the shaft. You may need to use a carefully aimed blow torch to heat it up to loosen it. Penetrating oil doesn't always work. The C has adjustments on both track rods but only the off side one should be used to adjust tracking. The nearside one is for factory engine settings as one common track rod is used on various models (cost reduction in production etc.) Some 4 wheel laser tracking systems it's possible to adjust the nearside but the nearside adjustment was not fitted with that in mind. VR6 is fickle if not set up correctly and can soon wear tyres. Aim for straight ahead ie. 0 to 1 minute toe out not the +/- 10 allowable as specified by VW.

May be likely that you have a broken piston ring. Common VR6 and very popular with No1 & 6.

10 is the back plate ring, a distance piece. 24 is the inner wheel bearing. 25 is the inner seal to the inner bearing. Don't get fouled by the diagram. The speed sensor rotor is "collared" onto the rear of the disc itself. ie. it fits onto the disc on the outside where the inner bearing sits inside the disc. Its not part of the bearing assembly as the diagram might lead you to think.

Perhaps this will help..... Item 26 is what you are looking for if it is there.

Maybe, but it can be done in situ. The first thing the garage should do is check that the cam and engine crank line up correctly on the timing marks. They should be able to do this without taking it apart again. If the belt is out, it means taking off some covers and slackening the tensioner. With the engine crank at its timing mark, they should be able to ease the belt and OHC into the correct place. Retension the belt. Then turn the engine by hand a full revolution. Then recheck the timing marks align. Bottom line, if it's out, then it's at their cost.

Thats the belt and crank and cam timing, not ignition timing. All the symptoms of a belt whch is a couple of sprockets out. Retiming the ignition will not sort it as it's the valve timing that has been affected. If the belt had been put on correctly, most likely the ignition timing will not have changed and no adjustment needed.

At the front I use a trolley jack with a small block of good solid wood which is deeper than the body lip at the jacking point. About 1 inch width and 3 inches long, ie 1inch x 1 inch by 3 inches long . The wood is raised to the inside of the lip on the sill before jacking up. At the rear, there is an flat area inboard of the jacking dimple, in front of the mounting point for the rear axle bushes. Use this flat area with a block of wood 3 or 4 inches square. Know your trolley jack is short but the best points to lift are those shown in the pictures where the axle stands are. And axle stands for safety go at the points described above for the jack. The axle stands don't need to take the full weight in the body sill area, just needs to be in contact just in case the jack does funnies.

There's only one flaw with the Corrado..... they stopped making it!

OK, two photos, front subframe rear mounting point, axle stand on the rear half under the body. Second is the rear axle beam near the outside behinf the wheel. On the rear nearside behind the wheel make sure you avoid the brake compensator tucked inside the forword part of the axle beam.

Jack up on the back half of the either of the two rear engine subframe mounting points where they meet the body, not the half that hangs forward away from the body. Axle stand and a 2 inch block of wood outside of the lip at the car's jacking point dimple for safety.

0.040 volts with engine runing is very good for alt earth to battery earth. The 13.74 volts is not quite so clever. What are the volts across the alternator? If 14 - 14.2 then investigate things like the positive starter solenoid connection where the +ve alternator wire and the battery +ve wires connect. This can also go high resistance due to damp air getting to it from the road and thro' the rad.. (PS Disconnect the battery 1st!)

One way is to make a shaped plywood with covering material to fit the centre cubby hole. Another is to take out the ashtray, bit of squeeze, I have previously used fibre glass printed circuit board as the mounting panel spray black or put in theh radio slot.

Yep, audi ones. Will be a squeeze in the cubby hole below the dash if that's where you are thinking. Oil gauge when the engine is cold and first 2 - 3 miles will be hard over as pressure is above 5 bar at that point. Otherwise it will show 2 bar at idle and 4 bar at higher rpm. Centre guage, oil temp I presume will not really read much until the engine has warmed up as your 16v will operate at normally between 90 & 115. What are you going to do about the sensor bit. Take off the MFA wire and leave your LCD blank?

Hi, 6 degrees BTDC +/- 1 at 1,000 rpm idle speed (950 - 1050 rpm range). Check your flywheel timing mark beforehand to determine whether it is the TDC or the igintion timing mark. Sometimes TDC mark is not marked with a "0" or there is no TDC mark and the timing mark is the only one on the flywheel.

GT "S" badge from scrappers.

Sorree to blow the VW spec on this one chaps. Due to the 16v double overhead cam and the chain drive involved, it really puts a strain on the cam belt, even relatively youthfull belts. The 16v weakness is that the engine crank's sprocket drive rips the teeth off the cam belt if there is any sign of weakness. Better to change it at 40,000 miles intervals and certainly no more than 50,000 miles intervals. Oh, and don't let me stand anywhere near your Corrado 16v when you are blipping the throttle with the clutch disengaged or in neutral (strain at it's worst for the belt). I've had 3 owner's 16v's go, right there and then in front of me. When checked, no teeth left on the cam belt at the engine crank belt drive area. Teeth sheared thro' and a flat belt both sides.

One of VW'a classics on the 8v/16v block engines is the earth circuit between the alternator and the block going high resistance. All appears normal with dash light out and the battery taking in some charge. But in fact the battery itself is only seeing a voltage of say 12.5 volts but the alternator sees 14 volts so the regulator backs off the charging. If you have significant current drain from ICE as such (ie. above the car's standard 100 - 150 mAmps for time clock etc.), then this will soon run down what is in effect only a quarter or half charged battery no matter how long the journeys are. The way to check is to put a Digital Volt Meter on the battery earth and the alternator body (ie. it's earth). The DVM reading needs to be less than 0.1 volt. It's higher say 0.2 volts or higher then the earth circuit from the alternator through the engine block/gearbox etc back onto the battery earth has some resistance. The last car I worked on had 0.2 volts reading, when the bridging lead was fitted, the DVM read 0.095 volts and the battery charging was a lot better. The usual place where the resistance exists is in the alternator mounting bracket and mount onto the engine block. Jump this area with an earth lead (from a local motor factors) from the alternator body (find some secure fix point) and attache the other end onto the engine block or cylinder head. The cable does not have to be substantial so one of the slender earth cables with eye ends will do fine or just make up a lead using something like 5 amp cable. Every 8v I've had has had this problem. On the Golf Mk1/2s, some Golfs had an earth wire direct from the battery earth to the alternator body earth stud, fitted as part of the car's wring from new. VW have known about this one since the 1980's. Worth a check.