RW1

Official lubrication is talcum powder for the lift arm shaft areas!!!!!!! And just before you buzz of borrowing the bedroom smelly stuff, it ain't that variety. It's the cycle repair kit white chalky stuff. Putting grease on, yeah makes it work but as soon as daily road dust sticks to it, lovely, grinds to a halt. Better off waxing polishing the lift arms regularly with a little bit of talc smeared on afterwards. Little gem from 1988 :-) Very early Corrado spoilers have a timing delay built in (1988 - 1991). Not entirely sure as I couldn't find the little note tonite. You wouldn't notice it when driving as you don't know when the gearbox speed pulses reach "lift it " command level but on the switch there would be a delay between demand and the spoiler actually moving. Late 1992 onwards the feature was deleted. Does that make any sense to any early non face lifted owners??? Another little gem :-) :-)

Had look around. THe CPS (G28) is the bottom connection of a stack of three plugs next to the main engine loom connection on the nearside of the engine block. Wire will lead you to the sensor end bit. Check the plug side pins on wire to this bottom plug, there should be three pins in the plug. Pins 1 & 3 ie. outer pins, the voltage should be 9volts and above with the ignition on. CPS to engine ECU connctor wiring check, ignition off. Pin 1 CPS connection to engine ECU 68 is 1.5 ohms max. Pin 2 CPS connection to engine ECU 67 is 1.5 ohms max. Pin 3 CPS connection to engine ECU 33 is 1.5 ohms max. Check between all CPS plug three pins with engine ECU pins have no shorts. If no wiring fault and 9 volts or above is present, new CPS (G28). No wiring faults and no volts, engine Digifant ECU is kaputt. ---------------------------------------- Another item to check is a No1 Recogniton Sender ( Next a wire continuity test from distributor plug to engine ECU. Ignition off. Check pin 1 goes to pin 33 on the engine ECU and resistance less than 1.5 ohms. Check pin 2 goes to pin 44 check --- like wise ---- Check pin 3 goes to pin 45 check ---like wise ---- Check all three pins in plug for cross shorting while plug is of engine ECU. Should be none. If no wiring fault and over 10 volts voltage was present on the distributor plug, then Hall Effect Sender is duff. If no wiring fault and no 10 volts or above, Digifant engine ECU is kaputt. ------------------------- Ignition transformer: Ignition off. On terminals 1 & 15, the two small ones in the main body, measure resistance. Should be 0.5 to 1.2 ohms. On connections in the "curved body" part, measure resistance. Should be 3 to 4 kohms. If neither met, replace ignition transformer. -------------------------- Let me know Roger B. if you are still pooped. Not much else to go at. Injectors, - the rush at lunch time..... Should have written check for fuel squirting in a regular sequence. Obviously take car of the ignition to avoid a fire by pulling off the ignition lead from the centre connection of the distributor cap and leaving it to arc to the engine well away from the loose fuel. A few quick squirts will confirm all is OK or not.... If not squirting but clicking electrically, then look at fuel pump, if not electrically clicking, then engine ECU kaputt or check wiring back from injector rail for damage. 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 Are you serious Gavin?? Early Mk1 GTi's and similar engines had a distributor rotor arm with a mechanical rev limiter built in, remember?. In later engines the rotor was replaced for a standard looking type on, ever wondered why? Yet unlike the very 1977 / 1978 early GTi's, no busted engines. Reason.... the fuel pump relay takes in pulses and monitors rpm this way. The limit is quite a bit higher than the "red line", never see it stated and probably differ between FPR part numbers. From notes it's up somewhere at between 7,200 & 7,800 rpm. It cuts back in again when the revs drop slightly. Also the FPR cuts the fuel pump 12 volt supply if the engine pulses stop. Which is why you hear the fuel pump run on for a 0.5 second generally and then stop. Stops the engine flooding with ignition switch on after a bad start or ignition just plain left on. Also in a crash, it stops a breached fuel line pumping the fuel tank out until the ignition is turned off.

'ello, do I have to fit the little fashing amber lamps? :lol: :lol: No fuel as the original post = fuel pump relay, check it by substituting- a ordinary relay will do for a test but not for perminant fit as the FPR contains a rev limiter and crash/ stall fuel cut off circuits. All fuses I assume are OK? Fuel pump humming? Obviously the relay supply 12 volts OK? If so, fuel pump whacked. Next - injectors After that, has the Digifant ECU popped. If you're still haven't bottomed it, I'll look deeper at tea time.

It will possible depending on the manufacturer it makes the engine run slightly hotter, about 4'C to 6'C on the oil temp. This does happen with VAG's G12 or G12 plus. Discussed before. Opinions differ but I've found 50%50% runs hotter than 60% water / 40% coolant additive by the the above temp difference in several engines before & after. Only thing to watch with this that a bad winter, below -15'C, the mixture will have to be adjusted to 50%/50%. You don't have to drop it all out. Allow at least 8 hours better 10. Then undo the little tap stopper on the underside of cooling system pipe near the alternator. Tap stopper is just the the nearside of the alternator. Let out about 1.5ltrs. Add water and coolant in a weak mix of 75%W/25%C. It doesn't need to be a precise science.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: How long due you think I've got on my pension book Kev! I want to win the lottery before I go.

A plug out, smell petrol? No - Fuel Pump Relay. Check for spark. No - check coil for 12 volt, yes - look at hall sender.

Yeah, I wasn't thinking ir was off. The cap isn't totally water proof as you are most likely to find out. Otherwise it would be a "sealed" system and life would be so much easier :-) Good Luck. If it's not that, I'll look at the wiring diagrams tonight for you.

Only one of them, hence which engine code have you got?

10% to 93%, yes OK otherwise you would have a TPS fault code. More typically 12 to 94 on most. Difference in temp readings on ECU and dash – two different sensors and dash ain’t that accurate anyway. 00283 Front left :thumbleft: 00735 Hmmmm. Not a listed “Corrado” fault but refers on to USA standard of 01247. Check your wiring for the charcoal cannister if you get it back. :thumbleft: 00546 is the non-chip/immobilser key or you have at some point managed to turn on the ignition while the engine was still running to a stop when you switched the ignition off and then quickly back on. Otherwise the fault indicates a duff immobiliser box forcing the error. Clear down and see if reappears without using the dumb key.

I thought it was a bit of a trick Q.... dr-mat, do you get a lot of producers for missing tail lights????? :lol: 21w brake / 5 w tail bayonet fitting combination dual filament lamp. 21w indicator bayonet fitting single filament lamp.

ABS Lamp means obviously ain't working but the faults behind it are numerous. The obvious is to put diagnositcs on it to find what fault. Given that isn't to hand, measure the sensors 1.2 kohm +/- 0.3k ohms. Outside this value & tolerance or open circuit is what you may find. Fronts have plugs at the wheel hubs, look for the black wire in plastic carier. Also WD40 these connections when done as moisture is another trickster here, given the recent rain. Rear's, lift the rear seat squabs, black torpedoe connections, separate and same resistance checks. After that, diagnostics rather than further guesses. Good luck

Hi, Very hard to find what you want specifically but I wonder if this helps. 8v pump: expected to pump fuel into the open with 12 volts on connections is expected to deliver 650cc in 30 seconds. The injectors each at full throttle are expected to output 80 ml in 40 seconds each. VR6 12v pump: expected to pump fuel into the open with 12 volts on connections is expected to deliver 750cc or 950cc in 30 seconds. No injector delivery rate available VR6 24v pump: expected to pump fuel into the open with 12 volts on connections is expected to deliver 770cc or 2,650cc in 30 seconds. No injector delivery rate available Double checked the VR6 24v figures, there are two pressures of 3 bar and 4 bar respectively depending on the engine code. Let me know which code your engine is and I will look for more detail. Looking at this, unless you have the engine code that runs with a fuel system at 4 bar, the standard pump in the Corrados, metal or plastic tank should be able to hack it given the tolerances are +/-50cc on all the pump’s delivery rates. Best check you also have 12 volts or more across the pump contacts with typical electrical loads switched on such as lights, cabin fan and HRW.

Awch! Water near the brake fluid. The fluid is like sponge for water. Thats why you change it!! Don't worry too much this time round, just do it again in 12 - 18 months time instead of the usual 24 months. Next time use a dry paper kitchen towel to wipe the fluid off. Yes, the water could cause it to conduct a little. It's a leaf switch inside the cap and capilliary action could have happened. Best to dry off as best you can shake dry (hold the whole thing so that the thin stem to the float body is secure & float so it doesn't snap) and try an force as much water out of the switch via the top hole where the rod is that you were tapping earlier.

If you mean outside the rubber aperture seal on the short metal lip betwwen the outer rear lights. Yes, it gets in via the spoiler mounts /spoiler lift rods. The unit has drain holes inside the hatch ( nice!) and then it drops out via drain holes. Also water gets behind the number plate surround. Nuisance after washing the car if you want to wax it.

Disconnect the connector from the reservoir cap to eliminate it from the circuit. Same afterwards with the handbrake switch wire so it's also out of circuit not touching earth anywhere. Still there? What else have you been doin' on the car today?

Always does it and has done from new if its down in one go.

Also check the reservoir cap contacts by gently pressing the little rod in the centre with out takening the cap off. It should "bounce" a little with fluid pushing back up - 2 to 4 mm travel. Could be stuck after your brake fluid change work today.

According to EKTA, they are the same ie 191..... So damping is same, spring strength isn't.

If the shocks are 191 513 033J = yes

Pin 1 on one of the two ISO plugs carries the speed pulses from the gearbox for radio volume control v speed. Agree dr_mat. If this is the powered aerial motor connection on the ICE, then this BLUE or Blue with White stripe wire will need separating. See: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 9&lighter=

There is a warning about running the ABS pump for long period, ie. over 2 minutes. And the pump has to be shut down for 10 minutes before starting it again. Yep, I've run it longer as well, so one wonders on that one. But the reference only appears against the Teves 02 brake system as fitted to Left Hand Drive Corrados. Teves 04 ABS & ABS/EDL (Traction control) brakes systems are where the Brake Master Cylinder and the ABS Pump & Valve Block are on separate sides of the rear engine bay. Fitted to RHD UK Corrados from December 1991 onwards. Bottom line, run it at your own risk for longer periods on a RHD Corrado. The pump isn’t doing anything in this mode with just the ignition on. Hence the note above in the small print that all the fluid cannot be changed. I also doubt if the pump is influencing the brake fluid during bleeding while it is on as there is no wheel sensor signals (AC type frequency oscillation) present with a stationary set of wheels so the ABS ECU won’t operate any pressure valves. If they did, the brake fluid would be pumped out via the bleed valve that is open! Brake bleeding for all UK Corrados both with and without ABS (or ABS/EDL) is written above. When using a pressure bleeding method, the procedure is no different in either sequence or opening bleed valves. For changing the brake fluid, the operation is expected to pass 0.5 ltr through each circuit (ie. 2.0 ltrs in total). Closing off each calliper brake valve once all air bubbles have been flushed through. (Personally I am able to do all 4 circuits with 0.8 ltr by monitoring the change in brake fluid colour from dark to the same as the fresh fluid being put in.) Reference for the information: VAG Corrado Workshop Manual. Running Gear Booklet Section 47 - Brake Hydraulics Pages 25 to 28 Bleeding Brake System & Changing Brake Fluid – Conventional & Teves 04 ABS, ABS/EDL Braking Systems Bentley (USA) Workshop Manual only refers to the Teves 02 Brake System as fitted to LHD Corrados.

PM'd data file for you

Nope. You first need to establish what faults are in the ECU memory as there is something wrong, possibly the lambda probe. Also check out you ignition leads for continuity and 5k - 7k ohm resistance. And check the condition of the plugs, that may give you a clue to which may be faulty. Follow "Basic Setting" procedure section only using VAG-COM if all is well or you have rectified the fault(s) found.

Nope! Not the Corrado in Europe & UK. See the bottom. As per...... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 98&start=0 Corrado Brake bleeding 1989 - 1995. (Also includes the clutch circuit) 2 man job particularly when flushing through the clutch circuit. Require 1 ltr of DOT 4 brake fluid. System is not designed for DOT 5. BRAKES: Applies to all UK models, 1989 – 1995 whether fitted with ABS, ABS/Traction control or just plain conventional. Just like any other VW of the era with standard brakes. ABS or not, they are all the same procedure. Assumes here that the pumping pedal and bleed collection bottle method is used. Auto bleeders etc, treat the Corrado as standard type brake circuit. Bleed sequence is: 1 - Rear right (offside) caliper 2 - Rear left (nearside) calliper 3 - Front right caliper 4 – Front left caliper Carefully pump the pedal with the bleed nipple open at each wheel and close caliper nipple on a brake pedal pressing action. Do this until the new fluid becomes visible in the collection jar. *** Don’t let the brake fluid reservoir level drop below the clutch fluid feed of the main reservoir, about half way down the side wall of the plastic reservoir otherwise that will introduce air into the clutch circuit. If you jack up the Corrado with the rear wheels off etc., as Chris VR6nos has said, you will need to depress the proportioning valve on the rear sub chassis nearside. Bleeding flow rate shouldn't be affected with rear wheels on the ground at full weight. CLUTCH: Definitely two people. With the main brake fluid reservoir full, connect a feed pipe to a collection bottle and open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox. In the cabin, grab hold of the clutch pedal (as it is sprung assisted to go up into the dash!) and gently push while holding the pedal. At the bottom of the stroke, close the slave cylinder nipple and pull up the clutch pedal back up to the top again. Open the slave cylinder nipple again and repeat 5 more times. Ensure the slave cylinder is fully closed and test the clutch pedal for firmness and operating the clutch. Finally, open up the bleed nipples on the brake and clutch master cylinders and let out a little fluid into a rag while observing that there are no ait bubbles. Finally check the main reservoir fluid level is at the mark near the top on the reservoir side wall, usually a solid triangle symbol. Bleeding now complete, check the pedals are operating with no lag or sponginess. Test drive and all should be OK. -------------------------- NB. The USA Bentley procedures, particularly the ABS brake fitted Corrado procedures do not apply to the UK models. ie. Forget the ignition on and all that with VAG1551 connected. That’s the Teves 02 system not the Teves O4 ABS system There will always be some old fluid left in the ABS pump and valve block. So, just refresh the brake fluid at a shorter intervals than the 2 year recommended. It will dilute this factor over time. Also, now the Corrado’s are drawing pensions, after 1 month from changing the fluid, check all flexible rubber hose pipework at the wheels and sub chassis. The hoses can rapidly deteriorate resulting in weeping leakage or bulges on the outer rubber walls. This more likely to happen if the Corrado is used infrequently or stored of periods like over the winter. The new fluid for some reason breaks down the inner pipe of the rubber brake hose which show up as a bulge or the outer hose having wet areas.

Pin 28 is 12 volts from the Lambda Probe Control Unit. Pin 28 derives its power when the fuel pump relay is switched on by the ECU earthing at ECU pin 6 so that FP relay 3/85 earths to energise the relay (FP relay has ignition 12 volts on pin 2/86). The 12 volts outputs on pin 4/87 to fuse 18, through the lambda control unit pin 2, out on pin 4 to ECU pin 28. The ECU is switched ON from standby by pin 54 on the ECU connector when the ignition switch is on but not start position. Power also enters the ECU via it’s relay on the fuse/relay panel from ECU relay pin6/87 to ECU connector pin 23. The ECU turns this relay on by earthing it when the ignition is ON. Therefore, check the fuel pump relay, ECU relay, lambda control unit and fuses 18 (20A) & 22 (10A) are all OK. Most likely fault, the Fuel Pump Relay.