Dixxy

Well you guys were right!!! why use allen key bolts i'll never know but the valve has to come off and the bolts aren't moving. Can anyone tell me if the valve have tread in it or do the bolts pass straight through and tighten into the braket. If theres no thread how about this.... Get my little dremal gridding tool out and remove the allen key heads... remove all the brake pipes... slide the valve off... undo the remainder of the bolts with some grips... then when its back together replace them with sensible bolts. What says you!!!!!!!

it was the only thing left to do. When i took the head off i couldn't see where it had gone at all. Compression tests also didn't show anything up. Its not too expensive to do the head (just gaskets, bolts and a skim) so i thought i'd do it..... problems solved

i had very similar symptoms with my old valver and i'm afriad it was the head gasket. Do you get any signs of over heating?

I really like the reiger grill and have one myself. having said this took it off this weekend for a respray and found i really liked having the original grill back... old skool. Now i'm in two minds.

Thanks for your comments Phil. I need to replace rear disks and pads so i guess this is a good time to do the lot. I can see this is gonna be an emotional experience!!!!

I'm not too impress with the handling of my c at the moment and have desided to replace all bushes. I'm gonna start with the rears. I've brought OEM rear beam bushes as well as top mounts. Top mounts are no problems for me however i've near had a crack at beam bushes. Can anyone help me along? Whats the best way to do this, can it be done on the floor? Any top tips? Is there anything else worth doing at the same time whilst everthing is apart?

My VR old temp runs at aroung 110 on a normal run even when the water temp is 85. My old 16v ran exactly the same so i don't think there's anything to worry about. I have heard you can get thermostats which open a little before the standard ones and keep the oil temp down a touch. if your concerned maybe look into that.

just needed a good tug. Anyway not putting those clips back on talk about your over engineering!!!

Can you test leads to see if their still up to scratch. Or is it a case of they ither work or they don't.

Saw the big arrow, hopefully I can manage this... Talking about filters, where’s the oil filter? I’ve had a quick look and sure I’ve found it. From under the car you can see the housing which looks similar to a standard incased oil filter. As I seem to have moved to thread onto servicing... how often do you need to change the leads. Took one of mine off the other day and there seemed to be a bit of white powder, is this corrosion? is it time to change the leads.

Clearly doing there job a little too effectively. So with both bolts off i should be able to work the cage free. Cheers Gents

Got under my car yesterday to change my fuel filter. Its in a plastic cage with two bolts on studs holding the cage to the bottom of the car. However, after removing the bolts there seems to also be metal clips holding the cage to the studs. I can't see how to get these clips off.... any ideas?

Just wanted to pick the brains of the techie corrado bods... My VR seems to have developed a slight hesitation at about 5000 - 5500 rpm with the throttle fully open. I have just brought a new fuel filter which i'm gonna throw on it to see if this helps.... any other ideas would be well recieved.

Ta... i'm off to p1ss about with my CC

I'll give it a bash then, cheers kev. P.S. Kev you seem to be a man in the know... are angel eye head lights avalible for the raddo... if so are there any uk distributers?

I'll look into putting it under the wheel arch. Functionally tho will it affect the CC if its on its side. It will fit perfectly on its side under the BMC CDA. Has anyone configured it in this way?

I had a feeling it was... do you know if these can be placed on their side?

Have you thought of powder coating? i reckon it looks smarter than polished parts... prob cheaper too.

Just in the process of fitting an BMC CDA air filter as recommended by most forum members. Only problem is not really sure where to take the cold air from. I have had one idea but i need some help. Under the air box just behind the headlight their is a some kind of cylinder object sat through a hole. it has two tubes feeding it from the top one clear the other black.... With this removed there is a perfect hole for a cold air intake... My question(s) is this... what is this? can it be moved? can it be place on its side rather than verticle? what have others done with the BMC CDA?

Using bolts from inside of the rear suspension arm on a TT, these are a bit longer but same thread and strength. Picked these up from a Knowledgeable VW scrapper along with the brakes. 7mm for my money wasn't dead centre but i stand to be corrected. Thanks for the AMD tip. At this stage tho, not sure if i can be bothered to take it all off again.

Any idea of a bigger brake servo that would fit?

I found you need spot on 6mm spacers. And 6mm longer bolts to hold the carriers on. Got the bolts from the running gear of a TT. Brought some 2mm deep washers to space with as couldn't seem to get any custom spacers made up. Not to difficult all in all... i would advise get the parts together before you start though.

Would love to try and remove the one or two stone chips in the front of my C. Has anyone got any big tips for this... miracle products or just decent techniques.

Just upgraded my brakes to 312mm Audi TT brakes... good improvment. I've taken step by step pictures etc and have loads of information about what you'll need for the upgrade, i'll get all this posted soon. (PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THIS HAS BEEN DONE ALREADY NO POINT IN DOING IT TWICE) Wanted to know if there is a bigger master servo to fit the VR6, if so give me the info.

For a VR6