Pickard1

^^ That was one of the cockney charmers top tips :lol:

There was an episode of 'wheeler dealers' on sky last week that featured a 205 gti. They are always repeating them. In that Mike Brewer goes through some buying tips in his del-boy style cockney manner. Not sure if any of it was of any use though - that guy certainly speaks some bull when he's selling the cars on!! :lol:

Deffinitely check the insurance quotes......my G60 was less to insure per year than my old 2.0 16v. I guess the insurance monkeys just looked at the displacement and didnt know what a supercharger was.... :? Also in my 3 years of ownership the G60 has been much better on fuel than the 16v. In fact I would say the savings made up for the cost of my supercharger rebuild......until it grenaded..... :lol:

I had black smoke when my lambda was broke. Intrestingly we changed it but it didnt make any difference - still smoking. We left the new one on anyway as we couldnt be bothered to take it off again and the problem went away after about 50 miles. I think the exhaust must have been completely sooted up from running around for 2 weeks with a dead lambda and it took a while to blow it all out again.....

Your right Henny, .....one of the reasons I didnt take the fan back off was that I was concerned there might be a fault in my wiring loom somewhere, but there cant be as the current must be finding its way down the low speed wire across my bridge and back up the high speed wire - like you say. what are the chances of getting VW to rectify this and compensate me for my labour..... :lol:

Well I decided to short out the switch across both terminals....although I should really be giving VW some sh1t for the fan breaking after only a short time but I couldnt be arsed with removing it all again. The run-on had obviously stopped working before and is now also fixed - albeit at high speed. I'm even more confussed now though because I thought the run-on had nothing to do with the switches in the rad.... :?

Hmmm.... well if anyone knows I need to drive to warwicshire tomorrow for my new job at Aston Martin (thought I would save that bit of smarmyness for my 100th post 8) :lol: ) and I dont want to break down and make a tit out of myself......and more importantly the Corrado! Not that its bothered me for the last month....

.....Mod Dispute :lol: I think it was from one of your previous posts Supercharged that I got the idea that some kind of relay near the expansion tank was to blame....I was just about to step outside with the soldering iron......I'll watch the end of Hollyoaks first and see if it gets resolved. :lol:

The fan was new from VAG (153 quid.....) about 8 weeks ago. I had already thought of bridging the contacts. I dont see that the fan being on fast permanently is really a problem. Especially in this weather. I thought this might be the suggested outcome. Just wanted to make sure it was safe to do. I guess the only downside is that fan lifetime could be less....the original lasted 16 years with 2 speeds.....I guess if this one only makes 8 years running fast all the time I'll settle for that..... :lol:

I will start at the beginning.... I was advised in another thread some time ago (sorry cant find it :lol: ) to change my Rad temp switch as my fan wasnt coming on til 110 degrees celcius and it looked like my low speed was broken. I eventually changed the switch in the week but it hasnt fixed the problem. I made up a piece of wire with 2 male spades on the end and shorted the Rad fan switch. Fast fan works fine....slow fan doesnt work. From the search I think that this means that the relay for slow speed has broken....? Also from the search I think that the relay should be somewhere near the Expansion tank as my car has ABS (G60 by the way).... the problem is that I cant find it.....well to be honest I dont have a clue what it looks like :lol: Has anyone got a pic of an engine bay and could they ring it for me? Are relays just like fuses, can I but one from any auto spares place or will it be a special one? Cheers. Dan

well, Finally got to the bottom of this thanks to the search....... It turns out that my idle adjustment screw had blown out. From what I have read the giveaway should of been that my idle was gradually getting higher from 1000 up to 1500 in the previous week. This must have been the screw rattling loose before it finally blew. The torn hose was just a red herring..... :lol: Anyway cant go to the dealers to get the new screw because all of the coolant keeps droping out. Either water pump or thermostat I think but I cant see :mad:

The water starts to come through this pipe once its up to temperature, it doesnt do it from cold. On mine I wouldnt say its a constant flow, more spits and farts :lol: Also I think 110 in traffic is pretty normal if you dont have an oil cooler etc so probably nothing blocked.

Thanks Henny, I tried shortening the pipe but it just disintergrated in my hand. The rubber had seen better days. Off to the dealers........ :(

A really quick question here.....does the ISV boost pipe have to be a set length and diamiter in the same way that the MAP sensor pipe has to be? My idle has gradually made its way up to 2000 RPM over the last week and now there is a whistling noise from under the bonnet. After inspection the pipe that I think is the ISV Boost pipe from the inlet manifold (ISV bottom nipple, ECU top nipple, can someone confirm???) has split by the jubilee clip. I want to lop half an inch off the pipe and reconnect, is this ok? Cheers in advance...... Dan

Right, I have borrowed this screenshot to help me along. I've just called the dealers and they want £153.00 plus vat just for the FAN assembly i.e. just item 1 in the diagram. not the radiator. :shock: Firstly, is this price right? it sounds crazy for a little leccy motor and some plastic blades. Even the guy at the dealers appologised for the price :lol: Secondly, If i were to fit the fan, would I be right in saying that the rough method would be: 1)Remove the sheet metal cowling from the back of the rad complete with fan. 2)Swap over the fans 3)Re-fit cowling complete with new fan. Thanks for any advice. :)

As I mentioned already, there is nothing wrong with my radiator. In fact the prevous owner had it replaced just a few years ago. The problem is that the fan has become very noisy, creating a rubbing noise and sounding like its not spinning as fast as it should. Can I not buy a fan without a radiator? When I looked on the russian site that has the ETKA screenshots it looked like you could buy the motor etc seperately or as the whole fan assy. I wanted to know if it was worth replacing the motor only or if i should replace the whole fan assy (leaving the rad as it is!! :lol: )

Hopefully I dont need a radiator, just the fan or fan assembly..... Im presuming VW would be best for this but just dont know which bits to replace.....Anyone.... :(

young lad, Those are the people that sold my charger, Im pretty happy with it. The guy threw in a load of extras such as pulley, chip etc pretty cheaply as well.

Alright mate, bit of a horror show that one :shock: Mine blew up just the same about a year ago and I was in an equal pickle with money. I was in a blind panic for a couple of days and even had a colleague offer to steal and burn the car :lol: I brought mine from ebay from a german company called L & S cartec. It was 670 quid for a reconditioned one, with all the seals etc changed just as you would get from Jabba etc. Not a bad price I thought as a secondhand one would be 350 quid plus another 350 for the rebuild, so this is a little cheaper and all in one shot. Removing the dead one is not too bad, easier if you have a smaller pulley. I got stuck cause the pulley jammed....but Im an idiot with spanners.... :oops: Hope you get it sorted!

My Rad fan has just started making a terrible whining noise, it sounds like the bearings or something have had enough so I think after 15 years of service I might as well replace it. If I follow steps 1-5 in the above guide the fan and cowling should come off.....is this the best way to do it or is it only necessary to only buy the fan motor? And if so does anyone know the (approximate) price difference between just the motor and the whole assembly, if its not a great deal then I reckon I might as well replace the whole thing anyway as something else will surely break next week :lol: All help appreciated. Cheers, Dan

I've just seen two Corrados while picking my car up from PSI in Stoke. One was a green M reg Vr6 in for some MOT work, Andy mentioned it was in for some MOT work and had just had 312mm brakes fitted. It also had clear rear lights. Anyone on here? Then a guy arrived who had just brought a nugget yellow G60. It was playing up (supprise :lol: ) so I gave him one of my forum stickers to remember the website address so he might be on here later asking about knock sensors..... Apparently it used to belong to a guy who sold G lader overhaul kits, surely they must be someone on here? Dan

I just got my car back today from having the oil cooler fitted that I brought from the group buy. Before I was getting 120 degrees easily on the drive home, today I couldnt get the oil over 90 even in traffic. I was woried that it might get hot in traffic with the oil rad not having a fan, but this didnt seem to be a problem. Deffinitely worth fitting, just for the piece of mind of not having to look at the oil temp every 2 mins when giving it some!! 8) I think in the winter I might even have to put some tinfoil over it like the radiator on my dads old van.... :lol:

Thats the place....frog island, as you say thay came highly recommended. Where is the Lion Garage?

Hi All, Im just after some advice. My mum has took her 98 Audi cabriolet to a place in Leicester (called Butts I think) for them to investigate numerous electrical niggles. These include: The handbrake light not triggering (intermittently) - this means that the failsafe system wont allow the hood to be opened / closed. All electric windows working intermittently (mostly not working) - again this means that the hood wont go down as the windows have to be down an inch for the release to engage. The water temp guage not working. Ditto Oil Temp. The Hood release button sometimes does not realease (even with windows down and handbreak light on) The place she took it to was recommended as an electrical specialist, supposibly good with problems like this. When she took it in they were confident it was some relay which would be £45.00 plus vat. That didnt work and they brought another new item at £180.00 plus vat from VAG. Supprise, supprise this didnt work either. The car has been there for 2 weeks now and the gaffer is dodging her phone calls. She managed to speak to one of the junior mechanics a couple of days ago who told her they had got the windows jammed down and couldnt get them up and that the hood release now opens the boot but not the hood :shock: All along I have felt this might be to do with the ECU or even an earth as it seemed too much of a coincidence to have that many electrical niggles on one car. Does anyone have any Ideas?? Also what are her rights, it seems this garage are stabbing in the dark, can they charge her for things thay have replaced that didnt need doing?? I guess we will have to ask for the old units back to get them tested to see if they were broken or not. They have said that we can either pick it up (with windows jammed down) or they wll fix it. But they can offer no time frame for fixing it. HELP!! Thanks for any input.... Dan

triggermyson, I left her at home.....she was broken after a nights drinking with my mates :lol: I think the prices are a little bit high, but I was just more pleased she wanted something a bit more interesting than a shopping trolley. Forced Induction.....quirky looks.....It'll be a slippery slope to a G60!