Toad

Interesting post Kev. I've had a few problems with my rear wheel bearings recently (odd wear has meant that adjustment doesn't take the play out of them), but I'm not sure If I should just replace the bearings as one disk is slightly warped, and the MOT is only a few months away. It's rather frustrating that the disks are knackered but have not worn down that badly. I'm putting the warping dow to a sticky caliper on one side. A larger, slower wearing part would be better, but I suppose it could potentially lead to more problems with the caliper carrier bolts seizing. They are bad enough without being left untouched for an extra year or two. O/T Do you find your rear bearings need adjusting quite regularly (every couple of months?) I adjusted mine up again a couple of weeks ago (6 weeks since the last time) but cannot take the play out of them without over tightening them. I assume that where they were let go out of adjustment for a while, the races and rollers have worn unusually.

Lol... Looks lovely. What is it? I can't make the badge out in the picture...

Carb cleaner from Halfords.. a few people have done it before. Look in this list...

Yeah ,that is the ISV. unplug the pipes from it and the inside needs cleaning. The oil is leaking from the rocker cover gasket. I'd not worry too much... It's cosmetic mostly.

Try G-Werks...

Nah. Must get around to pikeying one. I know a few people with them (legitimately) and I know the good price reductions you can get with them. Most things like batteries, antifreeze, grease, tools, tend to go on the farm account at the local supplier so the VAT can be knocked off. TBH, most things do get used on the farm, so it's quite legitimate Mr Revenue man ;)

Easy. Buy a garage.... You need to be Motor trade to get one, or do a good impression...

Bum... Just when I needed to change my oil... Will have to go and pester the VW Parts desk up then. TBH my valver has been on Synta Gold since I had oil pump issues (was soley run on Mobil 1 before that), but the VR will be on Silver from now on.

I've bought it in the past.... Have things changed?

How about Quantum silver from GSF, which is cheaper than VW?

No problems, must also thank Steve for delivering the parts. Cheers for the throttle body. the pictures look awesome...

I agree with John and Kev here. The rear brakes do have an affect on the effectiveness of the front brakes, as there is weight transfer to the front wheels from the back, in the same way that the fronts take weight off the rears. I had no rear brake effort for a while and the front would lock and skid far too easily. Currently my bias valve is set with more effort going to the rear brakes than is recommended by VW, and I've not attacked a hedge *yet*. As John says, a bigger rear brake disk would mean that the rear brake had more cooling and that the disk would last longer. I've seen a kit for bigger rear brakes. Peanut sold one recently I believe.

Evening. Glad this worked out ok. Shame about the tyres... :(

First time I read that I thought it was a colloquialism for something. Got the new interior ready to go in then? Looked stunning when I saw it in Worthing...

Pull the belt right out so that you can pull the door card away from the side of the car and it ecomes a bit clearer. Mr Bently might have a picture actually....

Look for the sunroof removal guide. That'll be most beneficial indeed. The rear door cards are to be frank, w@nkers, with clips behind the panel holding them to the side of the car. They mostly play you up on refitment. You'll need to remove the rear seatbelt anchor point and pull it through the cards. Not sure about the rear seats, but I'll ask my freind, Mr Bently... brb. Mr Bently says "look at my picture, sailor"

Use the search, this happens lots. It's probably a dodgy alarm, interior light, glove box light, usually is the boot light, or a dodgy earth somewhere.

Not out of the engine bay. I've done it before with a long bit of wood with a person at each end. But it was hard work, and that was a 1.4 on a renault 5.

I could probably help on my way to Kent next saturday too. Or Gav would be a good shout, although he is a few miles away. Main problem is lifting it... If it was at home I'd have no problems, but it isn't...

I'd be very distressed about this. But... It looks like you'll have a good strong car that you will know inside and out by the end of it. :thumbleft: Every cloud and all that. The garage looks lovely Olly, I'm lucky in having a couple of barns to work in during the summer and autumn, but I'd like a nice concrete floor. Might buy a 2 post lift one day. They're only fetching a couple of hundred these days...

The 5 amp fuse controls the water pump, the 20amp feeds the lower fan speeds, the 50amp one feeds the emergency hovercraft speed. Mine doesn't after run for 10 minutes either, but will after run if the fans come on.. The 5 amp is swiched from the ignition. the 20 is switched from the battery I believe. Take your control box off and shake it. the components do become unsoldered inside. especially if you put too big a fuse in the auxillary water pump :oops:

To remove it when the sunroof is in, you tilt the roof and slide the inner piece back to release it from the clips on the roof. Think refitting is similar. You need to wiggle it back and forth a touch so the flap is sticking out through the sunroof then slide it all forward if I remember rightly.. It's been a little while...

It's pretty easy. Wack the complete unit in, with the roof panel slightly loose and the interior panel slid back, then tip it forward. nip the screws up tight, sit the roof back closed, see how it looks, tip it forward, adjust the screws accordingly. Biggedy biggedy boing.

Are you running with no grill whatsoever? Thats a massive area that is opened up. Why not try building one up from cardboard, and thin ply in order to get an idea of the area you need open for correct cooling. All the old petrol/paraffin cars/tractors used to have curtains which you adjusted depending on the ambiant temperature and workload. I don't see why you can't use this principal with your car.

Ehh! :? I don't get this either.... Are these the original valve caps that came with this head? They are line bored to fit a particular head and must stay on the same position. Did you change the cam? Are the cam caps picking up (metal melting and sticking to the cams?) I would also check the timing is correct by checking the flywheel TDC mark against the cam TDC mark to rule out the crank pulley keyway shearing. Was the oil pressure Ok when you started it? Hope this helps... Tom