Toad

I like Jim too, and Yan..... I like the way the corrado looks as stock and would buy an average unmodded example over something that's been lowered etc. Guess we'll have to see what it really looks like next year...

I've got a set for sale... PM me...

Lol... Exactly... I finally fitted my stereo last night at my parents, jumped in the car to drive it home, it started and cut out straight away, now refuses to run. I *did* think about selling or breaking it for a short while afterwards, but I'm sure as soon as I hear the VR growling along again I'll change my mind. It is hard work when you hit those low spots though.

Sadly my car has developed this starting and cutting out issue. If VAG Com does show the transponder coil to be at fault, do you know if I need to get my key/s recoded if I fit a new transponder coil, or is the code in the ecu? The fault occured just after I fitted a stereo, but I imagine it's just coincidence. Why aren't these cars ever simple? Cheers. Tom.

It's a crossmember... ;) Technically there is two, there's that crossmember and the one that supports the engine. I have one, which I can tidy up and spray if you want it. and perhaps even fit in about a fortnight, as I have a slight work related issue, which is freeing some of my time up.

Will your key actually turn then? My lock once broke so it wouldn't turn, and I had to replace it. If you look in the Haynes manual for a golf it shows you how to drill the lock barrel out of the steering lock. Alternatively buy a new lock and line it up. You will have to drill a small hole into the casing, so that you can depress the spring clip that holds the barrel into the casing. the barrel will then slide out. then you can use a large screw driver to turn the alloy piece at the end which operates the steering lock and ignition switch.

I don't buy PVW any more as I found the text was a repeat of the previous article, with the relavant bits changed. There didn't seem to be any imagination from the writers, so I gave up. I'd have liked to hear more about the car other that "it's super shiney, and super low and the owner is such a bad ass as he gave someone a massve cheque to sort the car with"... As already mentioned... Yawn.

I try to do it with the caliper still on the car... put a bar across the back of the caliper and pull it toward you. of course you should only do this if the car is properly secured on axle stands etc.

Evening. I put 280mm brakes on my 16v a little while back. Went for the plain bog standard brembo disks from GSF and EBC Greenstuff pads. I had the brembos as 256mm with pagid fast road pads and liked them so stayed with the same stuff. I used the Goodridge G60 set of pipes from GSF. TBH, they are a bit long as the early and late cars had different solid pipes, and the G60s have the pipes clamped to the back of the shock absorber. Are you looking to replace all solid lines as well as flexis? The solid lines to the front are fairly straight forward, but the rear lines need the exhaust and heat sheild off eventually. To change the flexis. I used a can of brake cleaner to help clean all the dirt and cack off the joint, wire brushed it and put wd40 on and let it soak in for a while, then tried to crack the pipes off. I only changed the pipes at the end when the new calipers were ready to go on(left the old calipers hanging on the suspension till the end). The whole system was only open for a short while that way, so that there was minimal fluid leakage. If you make sure there is plenty of fluid in the reesevoir and leave the bleed neipples open, gravity will cause fluid to runinto the calipers and helps to reduce the ammount of bleeding you need to do. Allow at least 1/2 litre of brake fluid for each corner (Thanks Yan) I'd fit new boots to the claiper slider pins and regrease all the calipers. I'd also consider putting seals in all of the brake calipers. Would definitely recommend changing the handbrake cables. They're only £8 each after all.

I got by with a mk2 golf manual and common sense for a long time, but the bently is good.

Not really in this case. It's not that big a jump in battery size... As long as the alternator capacity is larger than the electrical useage of the car, you're fine.

They seem to come up on the VR6OC every once in a while. I picked mine up for £80 with the hose, custom bracket and cleaning kit :D I just love the noise 8) Ooooh. Good tip. I'll be having a hunt round there then...

That is the reason I believe... Apparently reace cars are left with the brakes off when they are parked after a lap, but obviously this is an issue when driving in real life. I'd try slowing to almost a complete stop before a junction/traffic lights, and rolling slowly upto them...

Mine runs at about that. I think it's a coolant sensor, but I've not run it for long enough to be certain... Think I might give Ross a call and pop up at some point, as he VAG-Comed my car before.

That can't happen... Is the locking castle ring fitted? Doesn't sound like it.

Probably best off getting a quote from a body shop to fix it and compare it to the value of the car (Which just went up with the new seats remember...)

You want to take the light out really, because the reflector will get damaged quite soon if left exposed. I have an early one you can use in it's place if you want. Try not to touch the reflector surface as it's super delicate. You can use vaseline on the metal edges to stop air and moisture getting at it...

The angle of the headlight makes it look like you'll need a new (or unbend the) slam panel If you get all the bits and want a hand to put them on, give me a shout. Got all the neccessary tools etc at home. I've added you on messenger btw. Tom

It's the one for the Goof VR6, but you need to order it from Stealth as the MAFs are different sizes and stealth will supply the CDA with the correct adaptor to fit the Corrado. I think.

There is a metal sheet that is riveted into the inside of the bumper around the towing eye to about half way along. Is it this? They can get bent from light accident damage. My fuel tank straps are a bit rusty too, but it is a 17 year old car, so I'm not too worried about that, as long as they aren't rusted away... The petrol smell is probably a leaky fuel pipe under the bonnet. do a search for this as it could end in tears (and flames)

Can you put a picture up? I've noticed that the stupid G60 leads won't fit over the bullet connector on the end of the plugs so you have to unscrew it. Think that's what you are looking at, the threaded end of the plug.

With the engine off (ignition on though) can you turn the wheels? Admitedly they will be quite heavy, but after 3 years a ball joint could have seized?

Unlucky Rog... Sadly your insurance will take the hit too :(

You can port and polish a standard throttle body, as it's the biggest restriction in the inlet system. But I don't know how big a difference it will actually make. I have a ported one for mine, so I will find out in a couple of weeks. Weber 'firebreather' throttle bodies fit too.

My disks aren't that badly warped, but you can feel it as you try to spin the disk. The slight rumble seems to go away as you drive, so I guess that's the thermal expansion. I had to change the pads on the rear because of the one side sticking and the pad material crumbling. The annoying thing is, that it's all genuine VW kit too. I tend to get hold of the rear wheels and give them a good shake whenever I'm looking around the car. Speaking of rubbish unneccessary MOT fails, my VR failed on top mounts last week, despite there being no real problem with them when the car was on the ground, yet the leaking rear shock, no ABS and slightly rusty rear brake pipe didn't get a mention... I even got an advisory on the spare wheel, despite the fact that there isn't one...