Toad

My suggestion was for getting the injectors cleaned. Not getting the engine stripped down there. Next time I won't bother.

I did this conversion recently and still haven't Wikified it... As mentioned above, you need G60/VR6 calipers and carriers, G60 Disks, and G60/VR6 pads. I took the opportunity to change the brakelines to goodridges too. You are better off not removing the brake line caliper from the caliper until you are ready to plug the new one straight in, otherwise you'll lose a lot of brake fluid. Also leave your bleed nipple loose until brake fluid starts to flow through it. gravity will do the majority of the bleeding for you. Hope that helps. Tom.

The back of the handle has 2 catches that engage in the door skin. It sounds like these have come out. You will have to take the door card off, get the handle to engage properly and refit.... My drivers handle was the same until recently. Hope that helps. Here's a graphical representation... D O | ___ O | | H | R L A | | | N | S | | D | K | | L | I L E | N | |__| | Bum... HTML makes it go wrong...

I can measure mine. But it seems to be sitting very low at the back at the moment think something is saggy... However... I could measure the spare car. but it won't be for a little while as it's sat at a dodgy angle at the moment. Sorry I'm not more help...

I just realised I was more thinking aloud than writing a post.... :oops: Goldie I guess you'd agree that it'd be a great deal easier with the slam panel out of the way? It's pretty straight forward, just a bit fiddly to get everything lined up...

Hmmmm. I've failed to remove the glove box from either car now... Think a glamorous assistant is required....

From my experience of removing one... Id be keen on taking the front off the car to get better access, then remove the existing plate and centre tube running through the existing oil cooler, put the new plate against it, and replace the centre pipe and cap with the new items that are supplied. The cooling radiator would then need mounting in your chosen position, and pipes clamping up out of the way. If you want a hand, bring it down, We could put the front up on blocks to get better access, in a similar style to mine the other day. Thinkk Goldie is looking to fit his as soon as he gets a new radiator and pipes, could do them both at the same time?

Chuck 5 l of fresh fuel in it... the guage could be rooted...

Try Halfords, they carry quite a few looms... When you say there are differences, do you mean in the loom in the car? As far as I know, they all have the ISO connectors, but early cars don't have a switched live from the ignition. You should connect the switched live input from the stereo to the live in this case to maintain the memory (the loom may facilitate this) and there wil be a switch on the body of the stereo that needs setting for this...

That could be the PAS or the alternator belt... Nip them both up this weekend and see if it helps. To be honest there won't be anything to tighten, it'll probably be something that's a bit worn... and needs a bit of oil.

That sounds like Josh Wink. Check your p/s pump belt, fluid level, but it almost sounds like a steering column component. try altering the steering wheel angle and try again. also check the steering column joint near the floor. Tom.

You need to have the injectors professionally cleaned. Try finding a Bosch injector service centre, or a local deisel specialist, they should see you right.

I tend to use water pump pliers. can be very fiddly though, and the spring clips generally get replaced with jubilees whenever I get the chance.

Great news. Cheers Kev...

Cool That'll save me looking in the wrong place then!

Evening... I have a N reg VR6 with non functioning ABS, the light does not come on or anything... I know there was a thread about this recently, but I couldn't work out where all of the fuses and relays were. Could anyone shed some light on this please? I know the ABS ECU is under the glovebox, do the relays sit here too? Which fuses supply the ABS too? Are there a couple mounted above the main fusebox? Cheers everyone. Tom

With regard to the Golf 16v plugs... I assume they are the same as I fitted to my KR 16v the other day? Bosch Super somethings?? Hope so, as I've got 3 knocking about spare...

Jim would be worth asking them to change the slider pin boots if they are not A1 condition, save any more hassle in the future. No, the handbrake mech... The cables attach to a lever on the rear calipers, the spindle of which corrodes and jams the handbrake. If you remove the return spring (be V careful, and it's a mare to refit) you can pull the handbrake mech spindle out of the caliper very slightly, then wire brush it, and lube it up to stop rust forming in the future. The handbrake adjustment is at the bottom of the handbrake lever. to access it, remove the handbrake handle, and both surrounds, then unscrew the rear centre bolster, loosen the 4 plastic plugs either side of the transmission tunnel, and the centre peice will lift out. use 2x 8 or 10mm spanners to adjust the cables accordingly. Tom.

If all of that fails... I have an early one going spare... Let me know. Tom

Thread resurectionism time..... I tried to drag my glovebox out at the weekend, but failed after pulling quite hard. Are there any more tips, or should I just give it some beans? Perhaps squeezing the top and bottom together? Cheers Tom

Get it compression tested before doing anything... I'd think about doing it yourself. You'd probably save best part of £300. There's a few guides online to doing these things yourself. There might even be a local forum member who could help you... O/T Corrado vr6 Whereabouts in Winchester are you? I've seen a couple of red corrados around but not as nice as yours. There's getting quite a collection of us around....

It is indeed a common problem... Think I know of 6 that have been done in little over a month... The inside breaks up, and the oil forces its way through the plastic past the spade connector. I just fitted a spare valver one I had for the time being. Must change it soon...

The seal kits can be bought from vw and are fairly easy to fit. Well worth doing. front calipers just need the piston pulling out, tidying up and seals popping in, the rears need the piston unwinding from the handbrake mech, and the handbrake mech cleaning up/lubing. Edit. Have a look at this post

It looks like only a half cage. I can't make out ay bars running to the dash. Doubly pointless....

I recieved my clobber a few days back. Could you pass on my thanks... Tom.