Dutch24V

err, not sure if this'll work but here goes... Pics of the brake fluid reservior and what it sits on:

haha, ...maybe! :) I'm just home so pics coming shortly... (with a camera phone though) Dutch

Cool. btw, it's not a schrick! 8) Well I defo. have some other solution then as I have been towed before and the brakes felt like sh*te! ...but with the engine running my brakes are infact bloody good (the red stuff & Zimmermans see to that!) Still, will check and post later though just to be 100%... Thanks again... Dutch

I see... Well that's 2 counts for me not having a brake servo as she's LHD so I will have a look when I leave work and post some pics later to confirm or deny this *rumour* :) Excuse my ingnorance but what exactly does the servo do then and is it better to have the LHD solution (if infact it is like that) or the RHD (with a servo) one?

Cheers Asim - I thought that was where the VSR would be plumbed into but just wanted to check first. As this pipe doesn't actually connect to anything on my car I guess I could also just pull out the screw that's blocking it off and plumb it straight into the VSR's vacuum pool thingy? Then I can leave the 2 little green connectors as they are? I have asked at VW several times about the pipe being blocked off and the response is always 'hmmm, not sure really!' Even my mate who's a VW machanic and whos' fitted the 20vt into his G60 cannot say for sure! Maybe the Bentley will explain all? Kev, what do you mean by 'Another picture of the right hand suspension turret area would answer a few questions.'?? Dutch

hmmm, can anybody confirm this? Also, should there be a vacuum hose connecting to the ecu on a VR? Cheers... Dutch

Thanks guys, ...will check the servo this evening then but that pipe I've arrowed above defo. doesn't connect to it at present as it's blocked of with a small screw and strapped to another pipe to stop it flapping about! - and no other pipes connect of it!? Dutch

MoonlightVR (Asim) ...was the seller and was prompt/informative with emails, a very nice guy to deal with, sent the goods quickly/well packaged/as described, kept me well informed the whole way and was very helpfull with diagrams etc. Also included some handy 'extras' to help with the fitting of purchased part for free!! Cheers mate and good luck with the rest of the sale... Dutch

Hmmm, it's 100% NOT connected but my brakes seem/are good though - unless I'm just used to them being shite? Would VAG-COM show this as an error then ? Where is the brake servo btw? Anyone have a picture? Dutch

Have been looking around my engine bay in preperation to fit my new mod. and discovered that the vacuum hose coming out of the top right of the manifold and that runs across the coil pack and into the back of the engine bay is actually blocked off and connects to nothing? I'm sure this should be connected to something so was wondering if any of the VR owners can confirm what this should be connected too? I actually need a vacuum hose to connect into so am wondering if I could just use this one? It's to operate a vacuum controlled flap 8) See pic. Thanks in advance... Dutch

BP ultimate is 98 RON, at least over here and it's all I use now. I avoid the Shells as they don't sell 98 anymore. A bit tricky though as Shell is a Dutch company and about 2/3rds of the stations over here are... yep, Shell!! Dutch

LPG is roughly 40-45 euro cent per litre here in Holland now. Damn cheap but in a VR? I don't think so...

...Just filled up with 98 RON at 1.429EUR (0.98885 p) /Litre!! When I first moved to Holland 8 years ago petrol was 1/3 cheaper than in the UK, so it's not just Mr. Brown ripping of the motorists!!! B*^tards all of em... Dutch btw, Shell made almost 2 billion PROFIT in the last 3 months as their figures released today show, just behind BP. How can that be justified with the prices at the pumps what they are??? F*^king insane :bad-words:

My coolant light kept coming on for a couple for weeks with no noticable leak - and then my heater matrix finally blew flooding the cabin with steam. Maybe a coincidence but once I bypassed the matrix no more problem with the light!? Dutch

Shell have stopped selling super plus 98 in Holand now and have replaced it with V-Power - which is only 97 RON. :( Never heard of 100 RON before and Shell defo. won't be selling it here as I've already quized them about not selling 98 anymore!! Also, we actually now pay more for petrol and deisel here in The Netherlands than you guys do in the UK. F*#k&ng extortionate!! Dutch

You should really be using the NGK plugs all round btw as they're much better than anything else in a VR and will last longer. I'm no expert but think you should try a thicker oil to start with and see how it goes from there. 10/40 is too thin for a VR. I use 15/40 and might change to 20/40 soon. Those plugs look alright to me for 6 months use too, except 6 of course. My plug 6 is getting more fouled up than that every couple of months so don't think you have too much to worry about for a while. Also, those compression readings aren't to bad either for a 10 year old engine (from my limited knowledge anyway!), but I might be corrected shortly be someone with more no-how! My cyl. 6 has a reading of 6 BAR - not sure what that is in PSI but alot lower than any of your readings. Anyhow, change the plugs to NGK all round, put thicker oil in and go from there. I don't think you have too much to worry about for a while yet! Dutch

I presume it is for cooling exhaust gases to prevent damage to the CAT? My previous 'C' VR6 didn't have this pipe and quite a few I look at don't either. Some do mind so I know it's not unique. Anyway, where it joins the down pipe it has a serious split (about 2 inches accross by 1 deep) and is almost at the point of falling of the down pipe altogether. I.e. my down pipe basically has a 2 by 1 inch hole in it!! What would this do to the running? As I see it the Lambda probe won't be reading correctly as it sits after this hole and surely the exhaust gases are now getting fresh air mixed with them, thus the lambda reading will be wrong? Dutch

MAF! Check out: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0

Well it doesn't smell and the carpet isn't greasy but will give it a good scrub with a generic carpet cleaner one day soon then! I have black trim btw so no worries on that. As for the 4 hours, we'll see, but knowing what he's done to his C and others and seeing him work I am a believer! Cheers... Dutch

sorry, my mistake, was in members gallery :| Anyhow: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2jbn4/ Not mine btw!!

I'm sure I posted a link in here and it's gone?

True I guess but it must be a fairly corrosive mixture? I haven't changed it yet but as I understand you have 2 options: 1) Can be done without removing the dash but very fiddly and will cause a lot of swearing/bloody nuckles etc. Not sure on the time frame for this but must be quicker than no. 2)! 2) Remove the whole dash and do it properly. About 4 hours or so as I'm lead to believe. I have a mate who's a VW mechanic and is a Corrado owner too and he's done this job a few times (by removing the dash) and reckons he can do it in 4ish hours! Will see in Sept. when mines going to be replaced...

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2jbn4/

Just been scanning through the site and found some posts regarding the cleaning up of a blown heater matrix. Seems it's common to rip up the carpets to get it totally dry? Mine blew about 6 months back and I just bypassed it, took out the mats and left the car to dry naturally. Carpets and all are now dry and no greasy residue is left on them but what damage could be happening below the carpets?? I don't want to get in the car in a couple of years and find my feet go through the floor 'cos it's rusted away!!!? Dutch

likewise, 15-20 minutes when finished - and it's easier if you remove the plastic cable guide thingy directly above it first!