Dutch24V

I think someone will be on soon to debate/disagree with that one in more detail, but I remember this discussion from before and It's known that the VAG kit is much more heavy duty than the LUK or the SACHS and is actaully a combination of the 2. Even if you buy one of these 2 decent kits they are NOT the same as the VAG kit. Dutch

Hmmm, better keep an eye on that then! Dutch

http://www.abvwc.org.uk/vw_vin.htm err, not me then as I have a year code of R, i.e. '94 according to the above site ! :oops: Dutch

lol

According to my VIN (4434), me, but that can't be right !? Dutch

VIN, is that the chassis number? ...If so, mine ends in 4434, but registered in April '94 ??? How's that possible then? Dutch

So those of you that want rid can just buy an American rear bumber and hack of the tow eye! My first C was a German imported American VR6 (not an SLC, but with an AAA motor) and there were quite a lot of little differences between that and my European VR. The thing I miss the most about it though is the cruise control - and the factory fit Air co. Dutch

Not disputing it's true mate, just scares me knowing my driving history over the last 8 years when in the UK. I dread to think how much they'd demand from me if they were to do the same!! Ah f*ck it, if they were gonna get me they'd have done it by now!! Dutch

Hmmm, never heard something like that before either. Maybe I shoud think twice about returning now :lol: Dutch

..and your right, expensive cars fly about without a care in the world as the owners don't give a toss about a couple of hundred euro fine. I must admit it doesn't deter me in the slightest either as the chances of getting caught everytime you speed are very very slim, so the odd ticket every month is acceptable and I know I won't loose my license if I'm unlucky. Dutch

I normally sit at about 160ish kp/h when driving on UK motorways (and Dutch ones come to think of it). So what would plod do if I was caught then (i have a Dutch license btw)? In the 8 years I've driven on UK roads with a Dutch registration and license I have NEVER had a speeding/parking ticket - and I ALWAYS ignore camera's/yellow lines/parking restrictions etc.?? I know that is going to change soon but at the moment I guess they can't take my license regardless of what speed I'm doing? Just interested as I'm in the UK again in a couple of weeks... Dutch

Sorry for the delayed response. Not sure about modelling with Autocad etc. as I haven't even had the time to fit the VSR to my VR yet, and I have no idea of what sort of companies would do such a job to start with? To be honest I doubt I will get the time over the next few months to sort this out. If you can find another VSR owner in the UK that hasn't had the VSR fitted I think that will be your quickest route, as I doubt you'll be able to persuade anyone with one fitted to remove and take it apart just to model the flap itself, which is probably in A1 condition anyhow. I am desperate to get the VSR on my car too, so when I do eventually get a few free hours over a weekend I WILL be sticking it on my car. I can take the flap out, trace round it and send the pic. to you if you like, or you are always welcome to pop over and draw it for yourself !? Dutch

Jesus, so you would normally loose your license for that kind of speed then ? (I haven't driven a UK registered car in the UK for over 8 years) We don't have a points system over here and the fine is based on your speed. If you are caught doing more than 50 kph over the limit in a built up area (or more than double the limit) they can take your license, but I've not known anyone to loose one since I've lived here. My last ticket was for 158 kph in a 100 zone and I got a 212 euro fine. If I get caught doing the same tomorrow, another 212 euro fine and so on! Dutch

Bought my first C VR in Sept. 97 and the second in Oct' 98. Sold the first in Jan '99 and still have the 2nd. So, current VR for 7 years exactly, with over 150000 km's now done and counting... Dutch

Normally after 5-10 minutes of idle the temp gauge is still showing ---, but by the time I get to the end of my road (+/- 100m) it's showing 60. Another 100m (to the highway) and she's showing 70+, so I can then get upto 120kp/h straight away. It also drives alot smother after a 5-10 minute idle as opossed to just starting and driving. If you let her sit an idle for 20 minutes say then it's not so good, but max I let her sit for is 10 minutes. Dutch

I bought my Ninja new a coupe of years ago and was advised from several sources to open it up when warm BEFORE she was fully broken in and serviced. I took her to 6-8000 rpm regularly when breaking her in and the book stated no more than 4000rpm. She loved it too. A lot of bikes that are broken in by the book actually product less power later in life than those that were *used* during this period. I presume the same will apply to car engines? Anyhow, I also live close to the highway so usually let the car idle on my drive for 10 minutes before setting of to work. If the oil temp is above 70 then I open her up to about 4000, above 90 she gets caned!! Dutch

no, sorry, what he said 8)

This is why the standard power outputs differ so much from VR to VR then? Either you're lucky with perfect bores or less lucky with distorted bores when she was new!? Hmmm... So if she doesn't smoke on full throttle then it probably won't be the bores? Nice... Dutch

Does it smoke instantly when you start her or only after a bit of throttle action? Am I right in thinking if it smokes when you cold start her it's the rings? ...just curious as I've not seen a conclusion to what the problem is likely to be based on when she smokes!? :? Dutch

I have a vsr sitting around doing nothing at the moment. It's in Holland though and I don't fancy sending it back to the UK tbh. I was planning to take it apart to check the state of the shaft/flap too, but just have not had the time as of yet. Also, the flap mech. was checked/serviced by Stealth last year sometime and hasn't been used much since. I can take the flap and spindle out and draw some accurate diagrams with measurements and post 'em up if you like? From what I've heard though it's very rare that they break. Trev's for example has been on his car from new I believe and hence had a long, hard life. The only other failure I've heard of is on a supercharged VR. Dutch

In that case Corre you should'nt have the heating element so hence these wires are not needed. Just tidy them up and make sure they don't short on anything. As Steve says though it looks like your loom a has been butchered at some stage as the wires going to your TPS have been hacked and rejoined. I'd check the condition of the joins on these wires as they could be corroded, which would give you running issues. Dutch

What market is your C from? (seeing as you have a Swedish flag?) If it's from a cold weather market then the item with the wire missing from it is the heating element to prevent ice in the inlet piping, and it does not affect running. In our C's this is just a dummy connector as we do not have the heating element. Strangly the wire is left in the loom though!? Dutch

Well, spent 7 hours yesterday with a friend changing the heater matrix. Not so bad once you get into it. One thing though - does it matter which way round the pipes in the engine bay connect to the matrix? I've just realised I've connected them the wrong way round!? Also, the Canadian C's guide missed 3 screws (see pic with yellow arrows). These screws are located behind the oval air vent and one either side if it and down a bit from it. We had to remove the matrix and motor assembly first so we could access the middle screw before we could actually remove the dash! Anyhow, I have very hot air in the cabin again and am well chuffed with the resulting rattle & squeek free dash. Bring on the next job (which should hopefully have even more satisfying results!) Dutch

lol, that would be interesting!! I thought the vacuum stuff was from shcrick, just wasn't sure. Yeah apparently the earliest VR6 ecu's had this connection and the chip that comes with the VSR plugs straight into them and opperates this connection at 4000 rpm. Not seen one either but no use on my coil packed VR anyhow unfortunately! Cheers... Dutch

Well, it's not actually fitted to my car yet. I was planning to do that tomorrow too, while my VW mechanic mate is doing the matrix. Depending on weather, will fit it tomorrow and see what happens then. If it does break though, is there another way I can trigger the flap on the VSR? Can I use the shrick solution with my ECU (AG)? Dutch