Dutch24V

I also have a groaning clutch. When I pull away and let the clutch out slowly she groans for a second or so sometimes. If I nail it from standing it doesn't do it. Also I have problems getting her into reverse sometimes. Have to put her in first or second then go back to reverse and it's OK? I am going to get the cables checked and adjusted if necessary but my clutch has covered maybe 90000km's. It's also Sachs kit, but not main dealer!? Dutch

It doesn't look like the right one to me, but I could be wrong. The connector looks too small and the original one has a large flatish bottom/side with a large lump of metel attached. At least my original did and so did the replacement - and it ended in 461 Like I say though, could be wrong... Dutch

not really, just drive the car as detailed in the ECU reset procedure thread somewhere on this forum. (in the knowledge base I think) You don't need to do much but the ECU needs to relearn closed medium and full throttle settings etc. and it will try to do this in the first 10-15 minutes of driving after an ecu reset. Dutch

I think that's the wire filter that stops any cr&p coming up from the sump/crank? and getting into the intake system. I guess it's kind of important but not sure if you can just stick it back in :? Dutch

ahhh, that could be your problem then! Change back to your old one and see what happens. If your old one is not of the new style then you will need to do a reset/basic settings. If your old one is of the new style then you shouldn't need to do the reset/basic settings stuff. Dutch

If you didn't change the TPS then I doubt that's your problem. ...but it *could* be though so I'd swap them over, reset the ECU and see how she runs then. You will need VAG-COM to do the basic settings bit though. Dutch

...also, the last body Ian received was probably my old one, so I presume he reconditioned / enlarged that and then sent it out to you? I've always thought my enlarged body felt a lot firmer than my old one. Maybe the spring on my old one was weak. Don't know if Ian replaces the spring by default or if infact you have my old one but might explain a bit?? Dutch

Did you change the TPS? Ian sent my new body out with a new style TPS already attached (from Kev) I already had a new type TPS so just swapped mine onto the new body and installed. The body I sent back to Ian included the TPS that was sent to me with the enlarged body. The reason I ask is I think this is the same TPS that was on my enlarged body when Kev tried it out before sending onto me. He also had problems with bad throttle response/pickup etc. so I'm thinking maybe the TPS itself is fecked !? If you did use the TPS sent with the enlarged body, try it with your old TPS and see what happens. You will need to do an ECU reset and basic settings though. Dutch

Problem solved :D Just fitted new engine bay fuel pipes and the main floor pan pipe plus new clips and no more fuel leak. Thanks for the advice RW1. I released the floor pipe from the filter as described and hardly any fuel came out when I release the pipes from the fuel rail. Took 20 minutes all-in-all with very easy access to the couplings on a LHD motor once the MAF and air intake ducting was removed 8) Dutch

OK, thanks for the tips RW1, will do as you describe. Good point on the access issue - I have looked and there is absolutely nothing to obstruct me once I remove the MAF and associaled air piping on a LHD VR. I forgot the brake servo etc. is located that side of the engine bay on a RHD model! Cheers again, just about to go and pick up the parts - by foot of course!! Dutch

So the only stainless part is the rear silencer casing? Yep, the other disadvantage of the OE one other than having to drop the axle to fit it is it's weight. It's BL*&DY heavy, ...but it'll last at least another 10 years!! Dutch

I thought the OE VR6 exhaust was a fully stainless one? I bought one from VAG 2 years back that is anyhow!? Can't remeber the cost though but it was a lot!! Dutch

...just checked and there is fuel on the underside of the car just behind the front right wheel, so it would seem it is indeed leaking from the coupling of the floor pan and engine bay pipes and then running down to where I see the leak underneath the car. Just hope I can get a good seal then when I replace the engine bay pipes! One thing though - do I need to drain or release any presure in the fuel system before disconnecting the fuel rail pipes? Dutch

Sounds about right as I know the fuel pipes that connect to the fuel rail are porous, that's why I ordered those today too. If they are seeping at the fuel rail end, it's more than likely they are leaking at the joint you mention too. B*ll&cks!! ...are they that much of a b^st*rd to seal? I've ordered 4 new clips for the fuel pipes in the engine bay too, so hopefully I can get a good seal between the floor pan pipes and these. Is there something I can use to strengthen the seal, or just clamp the 2 pipes together and hope?? Cheers, Dutch

Morning all, Started the car this morning to give her a 5 miniute warm up before driving and when returning to go to work noticed a wet patch under the car, about half way from the front on the passenger side (LHD car). When I checked it it stank of petrol :( Having looked about under the car have found that one of the fuel pipes running from front to back appears to be leaking (there is a piece of foam hanging down about 1 inch where the fuel pipe goes into a little 'tunnel' in the bodywork halfway from the filter to the engine bay that is saturated in petrol) Anyhow, I have ordered the pipe that runs from the fuel filter to the engine bay as that's the only one VW currently have in stock. I presume this is the main fuel pipe and more than likely the one I need? I have also ordered the 2 fuel pipes that run into the engine bay along with all the clips. They will arrive by 3 this afternoon apparently!! Also, Is this a common failure and could it be more than just a leaking pipe? I haven't been able to get the car up on ramps yet and just presumed the pipe must be leaking? There are no other noticable leaks other than the one I mention? I need the car back on the raod a.s.a.p. too as it's my daily driver. I'm hoping I can fit the pipes tonight with a mechanical friend (who hasn't much Corrado knowledge though as he runs big nasty American V8's etc). Will we be able to change the pipes easily or is it a tricky job like most others on a C?? Thanks in advance, Dutch

Sorry Kev, misread your last email and note that you mean as close to the ecu as possible, not the multipin connector in the engine bay!! :oops:

Kev, No! The solution Vince came up with is a Dastek Unichip. This controls the vacuum actuator thingy for the green vacuum reseviour at 4000rpm and also provides the remap for fuelling etc. I have the wiring instructions from Asim, but he states that 2 red wires in the loom have to be cut and refers to them as the upper and lower red wires. I presume these red wires are for controlling the fuelling as the unichip must be plumbed into these. The other couple of wires that need to be spliced only I guess will be providing a signal from the speed contrller and power?? Anyhow, my concern is connecting the unichip to the red wires the wrong way round, as 'upper' and 'lower' sound relative to me?? Is there a full description of all the wires in the loom in the Bentley? Kev, I didn't want to locate the Unichip in the engine bay due to heat/water issues etc. so was planning to cut into the loom as close to the ECU as possible. Does that sound like a good idea as you recomend to cut into it as close to the multipin connector as possible??

Thanks Trev but I already have a wiring diagram from Asim, so I know what wires to hack into what, but I can't find a suitable location to hack into the original loom to start with. I'm going to remove the ECU this weekend and hack into the loom as close to it as posible. That way all wiring in the engine bay remains as is, which I presume is the best bet. Apparently there are 2 red wires in the loom though, which is where I'm confused as Asims wiring instructions refer to a top one and a bottom one, but guess that's relative to the car concerned. Not sure what these red wires do also so hence not sure what will happen if I wire the unichip the wrong way round?? Guess I'll find out soon enough... Dutch

Trev, I presume you have an early dizzy VR then? I have the later *AG* ECU coil packed VR and hence the original chip that comes with the VSR doesn't work (have you still got this chip Asim?). Stealth Racing provided a solution by the way of a unichip and a VTEC controller that opens the flap at 4000. This has to be hacked into the loom though. I'm no mechanic or electrician come to it so am not sure where to hack the loom!? This also prevents the ECU from having to be opened up and as the remap sits on the unichip, so it's easy to reverse to OE. Dutch

...sorry to jump in here on your thread Trev, Asim, could you send me a picture of where the unichip was spliced into your loom as I'm not really sure where the best place to cut into it is?? The loom wiring under the scuttle cover that connects to the ECU is very short and awkward to get at and I can't seem to remove the ECU either for access? I believe my ECU is located differently to the RHD car too as it's on the left side of the wiper area as you look at it from the front!? Cheers, Dutch

...sorry, can't post properly in this thread for some reason!

I had this dilema last year and went for a new OE exhaust in the end. Cost to drop rear axle is negligable, they last a bloody long time, don't clunk at different temps, fit perfectly and are very free-flowing anyway - which is why you don't get much of an increase going aftermarket. Dutch

I have noticed that if I push it on a sharpish corner the handling gets a little 'interesting' to say the least. It feels like it would be so easy to get the back end out if I wanted too, which doesn't fill me with too much confidence to be honest. I am suspecting my rear axle bushes are shot and I know my shocks must be close to it (6 y/o Sachs gas ones). I run standard and original arbs/springs etc. at the moment too. Anyhow, I went to Zandvoort racetrack on Saturday on a works team building event and had some fun in a Carrera GT car and a formula Renault. It was my first time on a track and I think I'm now addicted!! At the end of the day we could lap 4-5 times in our own cars, which we all did. I was expecting the VR to be all over the place, but to my surprise she actually went round the track very well indeed. By the 3rd lap I was nailing her for all she had (adrenaline took over) and she just went where I wanted. Also, the tires were very quiet (Potenza S03's) and the brakes amazing (Zimmerman drilled disks with Red Stuff pads). A colleague in his Civic CRX had to stop after the 3rd lap as his brakes totally overheated! Anyhow, how come on the road she feels well dangerous when pushed, yet on the track no drama's? Obviously the surface plays apart, but should I be worried about my bushes etc. if I can nail it around the track without any issues?? Dutch PS. Also, with low compression on 2 pistons, a weeping HG and considering the amount of oil I use I expecxted ALOT of smoke, but after the first lap she was totally clean according to the guy beghind me and didn't puff once??? How can this be?

I dealt with EnginesDirect (or at least a company of the same name based in Twickenham ) when I was a student back in 1994. I had an '88 Cav 1.8 SRi that needed a new engine. Went to these guys and 5 months later it blew up on the A3 at +/- 100mph. Went back on the warrenty and they had just or were going bust so ended up with f*&K all!! Solicitors were involved also but to no avail. Coincidence maybe but for that price (which is what attracted me to said company too back then) I'd be a very cautious and at the very least investigate their history thoroughly!! Dutch

Firstly change your plugs to the OE NGK ones and then check the time between having to replace the plug in question. No other plug will do in the VR so best change and see what happens first. Dutch