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Dutch24V

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Posts posted by Dutch24V

  1. Posted

    If it has the air adapter shown in the attached pic. then acording to my ETKA it's a BDE head (2.8 24v - and mine has this adapter)

    If it doesn't then it's a BDF (R32) head.

     

    Dutch

  2. Posted

    AFAIK the head is either from an R32 or a 2.8 24v. ;)

     

    I didn't strip my engine before fitting so can't help further, but what other VW 24v 6 cylinder VR6 engines exist?

     

    Dutch

  3. Posted

    Is this a normal occurrence after lowering the car (about 40mm)?

     

    I've had a look and there is very little space for vertical movement of the exhaust over the rear sub frame. It will either hit the bottom of the floor or the top of the sub frame. Any solution other than an after-market exhaust?

     

    The OEM pipe bends up and then down just after exiting the rear suitcase silencer thus leaving very little room for travel.

     

    Dutch

  4. Posted

    Not sure who I spoke to but thanks to G-werks for clearing up my confusion over this issue.

     

    The top-plates / bolts on the rear did not change from early to late VR6's, only on the front.

     

    I have to drill the top plates to make the hole 1 mm larger and the company I ordered the suspension from are sending me 4 larger bolts too.

     

    Dutch

  7. Posted

    I've just fitted my rear konigsports but have a small problem. The VR top plates and bolts don't fit the top of the shocks. The top threads on the new shocks are += 1mm thicker than the on the oe ones?

     

    Do I simply need the G60 top plates / bolts etc as with other after-market coil-over kits I've read about whilst searching?

     

    Thanks,

    Dutch

  9. Posted

    Hi mate,

     

    I haven't unplugged the light and all was well until I returned from a drive and noticed the rear spoiler was still up. Without the abs ecu connected the fuse doesn't blow and the light comes on and stays on too.

     

    I guess with all the work done recently it could be a short somewhere. I didn't really touch the ABS wiring though and nothing else appears to have stopped working :?

     

    If I unplug all the abs wiring but leave the abs ecu connected it still blows though so guess it's looking more like the wiring or the ecu itself :(

     

    Dutch

  10. Posted

    As the title says really.

     

    I have disconnected the rear spoiler with no luck so I unplugged the ABS ECU and it doesn't blow anymore. As I cannot switch the ignition on with the ABS ecu connected without the fuse blowing I cannot VAG-COM it :(

     

    Any ideas on where to begin with this one? Is there some common fault that will blow the fuse like this, for example the pump itself maybe?

     

    Thanks,

    Dutch

  13. Posted

    Interesting thread as I've just ordered some new suspension and was planning to do this myself too.

     

    Anything further required other than 3corsameal's list above?

     

    Are spring compressors expensive btw? I'm going to attempt to fit some FK Konig Sports coilovers so will I actually need any?

     

    Also, having read loads via the search, will I need to cut down the new bump stops I've ordered like with the H&R Koni T/A setup, or is this not required with coilovers (sorry, no idea when it comes to suspension...yet! :)

     

    Dutch

  16. Posted

    I want to ditch the two after cat lambda sensors for 2 reasons. The holes for them are drilled at a slight angle outwards so they stick out from the top of the cats and rub on the heat shield on the side of the tunnel. The twin cats are a tight fit under the C and there's no way to mount the exhaust without one of sensors fouling the body and causing vibration (short of filling and re-drilling/threading new holes). Secondly I want to fit a de-cat pipe so have to delete and remove these sensors anyway.

     

    I'm getting the re-flash from this company: http://www.vr6specialist.com

    Along with the various deletes it should also release another 30 or so horses (with the de-cat pipe) :)

     

    The 24v will fit on the standard C mounts with no modifications. I've used a VF front mount though as there's not much room for movement at the front even with a slim-line fan setup. I also don't fancy a large dent in my bonnet for the same reason. You will have to *modify* the support strut under the front left of the bonnet still though for it to shut properly. The Corrado front mount bracket also needs modifying as the casting on the 12v block that secures the long starter motor bolt to the block as well as the bracket is missing on the 24v block. There is another hole in the casting about an inch back and up from where this missing hole should be that also lines up with a correctly sized (m12 or 14 I think), threaded hole in the gearbox casting. If you do not extend the front mount bracket back so you can secure it through this other hole in the block the torque of the engine trying to twist under load will be mainly acting through the aluminium gearbox casing, which probably isn't a good idea :) See my project Dutch 24v thread in the members gallery for pics :)

     

    Dutch

  21. Posted

    Does it matter in which position the 2 oil pressure switches are located on the oil filter housing?

     

    I know the yellow wire is for high and the blue for low pressure, but it's the actual position of the switches themselves that's causing my confusion. I've been told that it does matter as one is supplied oil form the crank case and the other from the cylinder head, so hence 2 different pressures hence the switches must be in the correct hole.

     

    Is this right? I thought the oil going into the housing came from one source and hence must be the same pressure at both switches?

     

    The reason I'm asking is due to the location of the same switches on my 24v oil filter housing and if this will make a difference or not?

     

    Dutch

  23. Posted

    Well I tried to fit the t-piece over the weekend and there isn't enough height clearance for it to fit so it fouls the crack pipe :(

     

    So I had a little look further and found a little Allen key head bolt that looked like it was blocking a spare hole on the front of the oil filter housing, so I removed it and low and behold behind it was a spare sensor hole with thread :) I fitted the high pressure sensor and wired it up only to find the oil warning light came on with the engine is running. I thought maybe the low and high-pressure switches were wired the wrong way round so switched them over and all seemed good. Went for a drive and at 60 degrees the bloody beeping started again along with the oil warning light :mad:

     

    Which switch actually triggers the low oil warning light/buzzer? I'm going to try them the other way round again to see if the buzzer comes on when the engine is warm, other than that guess I'm going to have to trace the wiring to see what connector they connect to on the fuse box and go from there. I have the wiring diagrams so know where they should go, but they do not explain the workings unfortunately.

     

    Dutch

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