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steve_16v

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Everything posted by steve_16v

  1. That's why I said close to 200, the new BMW M5 is supposedly capable of over 200 and thats heavier and I would have thought has a similar drag coefficient, but with enough power and the correct gearing the Corrado could theoretically go that fast ... it's just a question of how much power it would actually take
  2. steve_16v

    Tyres

    Goodyear Eagle F1's (GS-D3) usually win all the awards for the best allround tyre. You can get them for less than £45 a corner. However I heard recently that the Toyo Proxy T1-R may have surpassed it now, they don't look as good but are slightly cheaper and last longer. I've not tried the T1-R but have had Eagles on a few of my cars and found them nothing short of fantastic, you need to push extremely hard before they start to lose grip (both in the wet and dry). Mine's currently running on Proxy T1-S's and whilst they're a good tyre I had more confidence with Eagles on.
  3. There's mention of a potential 550bhp output soon (nitrous kit iirc), so it could be close to the 200mph mark when finished! Although I doubt it would ever break 200 in this country, I remember seeing a video of the 1000bhp Top Secret Supra trying to do 200 on a motorway over here and it only managed about 197mph! The bodykit could actually help improve the aerodynamics but you'd need a wind tunnel to be certain either way.
  4. There's a heavily modified one here http://www.maddub.co.uk/ The owner is on the forum as well.
  5. My sisters first reaction when she saw mine was "it's not exactly pretty is it?" I've hardly spoken to her since.
  6. IMHO the R33 GT-R is the best looking skyline so far, this is my colleagues 400bhp motor on Dartmoor...
  7. interesting ... there seems to be quite a few conficting views on the de-cat thing, some say up to 10bhp gain, others say you lose a bit of torque and gain lots of noise. Think I'll probably play it safe and leave the cat on, I just want something that sounds slightly sportier than standard but in NO way like a chavwagon. Also saves having to keep a dirty bit of exhaust lying around for a year then having to get it swapped on and off at MOT time.
  8. I like it, the detail of the tail lights and head lights is fantastic. The whole car looks muscular but not in an over-the-top way like the r34. Plus, its a prototype so there's still time to improve the "mouthy" front end.
  9. Yeah at the first place it was a youngish lad, really interested in the C but crap, he had use the acetyln torch twice when he was adjusting it and didn't notice a problem! Bloke at the second place thought it shouldn't even be driven, and after geting back to work I was inclined to agree with him.
  10. Just got back from having it looked over by a better tyre place that does camber, it would appear the drivers side track-rod end is fecked, from having it tracked on monday to today it's gone from parallel to 8mm out! :shock: It was also pretty obvious to tell the camber was out when it was up on ramps as well, so tommorrow it's going for new tyre, track rod ends and a full camber, caster and tracking alignment. How the chimp who did it on monday didn't spot it I don't know but needless to say it's the last time I'll be going there. Hopefully this will cure it once and for all though because the 10 mile drive back to work was a bit hairy! One wheel went over a manhole cover on a bend and the front end just skidded across it :pale:
  11. If the garage can't find anything obviously wrong tonight it looks like I'll have to speed up my plans of changing the suspension. Would the camber being out affect whatever is adjusted when the tracking is done (track rod ends presumably)? Because everytime it's been tracked they've had to use heat to get it to move.
  12. No worries Billinjahg60 I'm going to try and leave work early today and take it to the garage that fitted the wheel bearing last friday, it's been getting progressively worse since then and doesn't feel particularly safe at the moment. Also noticed when I was checking the tyre pressures last night (they were fine) that the drivers side tyre wall was warm whilst the passenger side was fairly cool so there's definately something wrong somewhere.
  13. I've had similar problem with mine recently, turns over on the starter motor fine but once it begins to fire up it struggles for a few seconds before it really gets going, although it idles perfectly well. The radiator fan has been overly active as well, even if you move the car a few metres when its cold the fan will kick in few minutes after you turn the engine off. It also sometimes comes on when you disable the alarm and get in first thing in the morning :scratch:
  14. Andi, which longlife centre did you go to (some are supposedly better than others)? I was going to go down to plymouth and have the same done to mine, but I'll not bother if it's as bad as you say. How much worse is it with the de-cat? I thought it was supposed to make quite an improvement on the 2.0
  15. Just had a good look at the ride height and to the naked eye it looks like the passenger side rear is slightly higher than the rest (about a cm), need to confirm this with a bit of tape measuring action when I get home. I do remember looking at the front wheels once and thinking the drivers side camber did look out but then when I got home it looked fine, is there anything that could be worn that affects camber in such a way? Do the engine mounts make much difference to the way the car behaves? This does sound plausible because it definately pulls more when deccelerating than accelerating. (If you let your foot off the gas and take your hands off the wheel it will drag itself fully into the next lane within seconds). Also, if you push it sharply to the left to straighten up it will stay straight for a few seconds before wandering off again. All in all the car isn't much fun to drive anymore :(
  16. Blimey that was fast! Here goes... The Front brakes were replaced six weeks ago, haven't had the rears checked though and they do creak a bit if the handbrake isn't on at the top of its travel. Both fronts are about the same temp after a long drive. The suspension is all standard (at the moment) though there is a very slight weep on the front passenger side shock, I'm saving some money for coilovers (or H&R springs and Koni shocks, no need to start a debate on which is best there's plenty of threads on this already :wink: ) so I don't really want to spend loads on having it all aligned now and then have it done again in a few weeks. I'll go down to the car park in a minute and check but the ride height looks level all round (4x4 style!) The tyres were all replaced about 1000 miles ago (toyo proxes t1-s) and the pressure feels the same on both sides, but will check the pressures properly tonight. They're directional, all point the right way and there doesn't seem to be any excessive wear in any one part of any of them. The steering rack seems alright and moves properly when it's up on ramps. I had a go at the spirit level thing the other night on an admittedly not totally level road, there was about 2mm difference between them which didn't seem a lot but I hear the corrado is notoriously fickle if it's not all set up perfectly. (apologies for the long post!)
  17. I've done a search on this and there are quite a few suggestions on what the problem might be but what's the most likely culprit for making the car pull to the right? I've had the steering arms, bushes and ball joints replaced recently, had a new wheel bearing put on (drivers side only - the others are fine) and it's literally just been tracked, but it's still pulling to the right and is especially evident when you take your foot off the accelerator. The guy who did the tracking reckoned the camber wasn't out but it wasn't a full on laser allignment rig so I doubt he could say for sure. There's no noticeable noises when cornering so I don't think it's the CV joints, but I'm no expert on this and could easily be very wrong. ideas?
  18. I always thought cars squeal like this when the tracking is out?
  19. good stuff! Possibly, but you would have to speak to the manager and prove that the problems don't exist. Speak to Premier first and make sure there's definately nothing wrong, some testers are just more stringent than others and it's possible the one at Premier might not have though the problems were a failure.
  20. Try and stay polite when talking to the garage and if they refuse to fix the bonnet it might be worth casually mentioning that Trading Standards might be interested in their behaviour. Most reputable businesses will suddenly do a lot more for you when threatened with being reported. As for spoiler wipers the ones I bought were as a set, but for some reason best known to Bosch only one has a spoiler on it, tbh though there's not really much difference between them. The spoiler only comes in handy if your wipers start lifting off the screen at high speeds (the ones on my old Toledo might as well of not been there above 70mph for all the use they were, but a set of spoiler wipers sorted that out).
  21. Any reasonable garage should sort out the bonnet release for you if it broke while they had it. The prices quoted sound about right but if they won't do the bonnet release for free then take it somewhere else to have the work done. No need for Lupo wipers, I got some bosch wipers from halfords that work perfectly well, they were about £18 for the pair and had size 19/19S on the box (one spoiler one standard). Brake light is most likely a blown bulb.
  22. I used to have a 96 Seat Toledo 2.0 16v (ABF engine), not the best looking motor admittedly but it looks alright in 2.0 16v form with the bigger front splitter, body coloured bumpers/spoiler etc. Plus its feckin huge inside, the boot was as big as most estates, had half leather, all electric, did about 33mpg, and with 150bhp as standard it goes really well and no-one has a clue what it is. I once remember racing an integra type-r down a long stretch of private road :wink: and whilst yes the integra was pulling away from me by the time we reached 135mph he was only about 100m in front! Not bad for less than £2K
  23. UK is 326bhp standard (0-60 in 4.9), jap N/A is 220bhp and jap TT is 276bhp. All are capable of handing 800bhp+, but you're right to get reliable mega-power most tuners stick the skyline lump in. Although, and I'm not 100% on this, the Top Secret demo car was pushing over 1000bhp with the supra engine. Some single turbo cars for sale here.
  24. Weird, I though that was a sticker as well, were they designed like that so people might mistake them for AMG's from a distance? Just seems a bit odd having the wheel size engraved on the rim...
  25. Whoa blingin! That's some mighty fine work there... How much do you charge for this sort of work, I've got some estorils sat in my garage that I reckon would look good polished for winter use (don't fancy spending an hour or so every week cleaning the BBS's)
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