Mike Edwards

Cleaning the inside won't do much either.

Hmmm... No part number shown so I can see why they'd say that. Get one from a Mk2 Golf and fit that. Alternatively - if you're feeling brave - take the existing one apart (no, I don't know how) to find the bulb then take that to the Dealership who should then be able to help.

Chris, I think you need to go back and read the 1st post where the part numbers for this kit and costs at a SEAT garage were given. That said, the information on wheel size and clearance requirements is useful.

The 4 motion has 312mmx25mm front disks, so how will these fit?

Unfortunately, these were the quoted prices for the part numbers you gave. The calipers for the Leon were over £250 each without pads. :shock:

Hmmm... Just checked 2 seperate SEAT dealers. Prices for the disks and pads are now ~£160+ VAT per side... :(

See below: Subj: [Corrado-UK] VR6 crank case valve from FORD!!! Date: 18-Mar-03 15:27:58 GMT Standard Time From: To: mailto:[email protected] Sent from the Internet (Details) As written earlier by Charlie (and others), ford part number is F7364573. Finally ordered one today. The picture on the computer looked identical, and it comes in at a very healthy £18.42 instead of the HUGE £140 VW want for the assembly. He said it should come in tomorrow... I'll let folks know how I get on, if anyone's interested. M. You should also note that - in the picture you posted - the hose from the t/b to the carbon canister has been severed and not plugged. This will do drastic things to the running of you're car...

Damping is a bit stiff...

You need to take the headlining out 1st, but after that it's a simple job to pull the drain hoses off and remove the 10 bolts that hold the assembly into the roof.

The Vr I have went from 180bhp/190ftlb to 205bhp/230ftlb with the combination of Shrick/tb/re-map. Now makes more torque from 2500rpm to 5500rpm than it used to do as a peak value. the torque peak is also 1000rpm lower. HTH

With the engine up to temperature and at idle, disconnect the plug to the MAS. The revs should drop and - while driveable - the throttle response should be horrible.

The difference won't be as striking, but it will be there.

Steve, WHat's the difference between the 2 blades? According to ETKA they're bothe the same length - is the pivot in a different position?

There is no fouling of the bonnet with this setup, as previously reported when using the passenger side arm.

Further to my last post, it seems that the part numbers for the Lupo GTi wipers have changed to: 6X2 955 410C - driver's side wiper arm; 6X2 955 426 - wiper blade. The change might explain why some people have been waiting so long for their parts to arrive. Here are some pictures: C with Lupo GTI wiper arms and blades (part No.s above), with the original set up for comparison.

Edited - see below... :D

The flexi hoses are different, so if you want to buy braided hoses, wait until you have the new brakes. If you're getting the stock brakes to fade in normal use it suggests that the fluid is very, very old...

Genuine disks and pads in good condition give the best brakes for road use (unless you drive like a complete chimp...). Fast road pads from anyone tend to only work well when warm (and can be quite alarming on 1st application on a cold morning!). 288mm Mk3 brakes work well on the VR and can be picked up cheaply from breakers. And before anyone tells me I'm talking rot I should just point out that it is my opinion and it's based on experience of actually trying thm on a C... :D

The 15" wheels and standard suspension - provided it's in good condition - will probably give you the best mix of ride and handling for road use. All my C's are lower and stiffer than standard with the result that the ride is quite a bit worse than standard. the handling is only better if you drive at NSL+. Hence, best used on trackdays. If you want to lower it for cosmetic reasons without messing up the ride and handling too much, go for H&R springs (25-40mm drop depending on model) with Koni top adjustable dampers. Unless you get lucky and source some little used examples for a good price, budget around £500. If you don't have this kind of wonga, just fit new dampers, top-mounts and bumpstops with the original springs and find out how the C was meant to handle. :D

Scott, 220bhp from a VR6 is not possible with the few simple mods you mention. Even my VSR-equipped VR doesn't make that much. It also has a panel filter, gas-flowed throttle body a re-map and a freeer flowing exhaust. That's about £2.5k of mods... :(

I have a pair somewhere, but have you considered buying a set of Audioscape custom items? Allow use of bigger speakers and look original. Cost ~£170.

If you've been able to remove the sensors without the use of a hammer and sharp screwdriver, they can't have been on there long...

Starts fine from cold but has problems when hot? Air temperature sensor? It's on the righthand end of the inlet manifold when looking into the engine bay from in front of the car.

The only 10 pin plug I can think of connects to the radio - behind the dash. What it might be doing in the door is anyone's guess though... Oh - remember to replace/repair those waterproof membrane as soon as possible. They're the only thing that stops the footwells filling with water when it rains.

If you change the tyres to the correct size, you can get within 1% of the rolling radius of the 15" wheel using 205/50/15 tyres. Given that the speedo is only designed to be accurate to within +10=>-0% ir isn't a problem. Not sure about fitting 18's though... :)