peanut

Would love to see what you'd do with it. Dont really think its upto the standard your used to. However it was in the classifieds when i has having a "moment" last week for all of about 10 mins Thanks for the comments Gav

quick rolling shot from the weekend...

As voted for by attendees to the Volksdevil show last month. Congratulations mrs. http://z14.invisionfree.com/volksdevil/ ... topic=5061 and also for the article in Golf + this month. :) :) :) :) :) :) Gav

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvELFrc9xAE&NR=1

sounds good, very deep burble Gav

actually if you want an absolute bargain get on e38 and have a look for username copper. Hes got a shwartz black vr and its an excellent build. He got it up for 1900 as it needs a bottom end. Could prob get it for a bit less Gav

mk2 vr- we've had one. Forget all the tosh about them not handling, load of poop. There are quite a few floating round at the moment too for sensible money. They are fantastic fun to drive and feel a damn sight quicker than the rado. Other than mk2 specific things to look for, if your leaning towards a mk2 vr these are the bits id look out for- Conversion- its a relatively straightforward conversion especially for the later 90 onwards cars as the fuse box is plug and play with the vr loom. Depending on how much mechanical knowledge youve got get details of who did the conversion and when. Ive seen a couple especially pre 90 ones with botched looms which were quite frightening. Ideally the fans, rad and front x-member need to be from a rado vr (unless slimline fans and rad used). If its got aftermarket suspension of any kind, confirm its definitely got front shocks and springs rated for a vr. Brakes- rears are the same size disc and caliper on the 16v as the vr. On the front you can use vr calipers and g60 discs to go upto 280mm if you want to stay 4-stud. %-stud conversions can be done susing both widetrack and none widetrack parts. Basically anyone you look at you need to get as comprehensive a list of parts used as possible. If done right it should all look relatuvely oem and this will reflect the standard of the conversion. Sorry if its a bit long winded. They are superb fun, they just need decent suspension. Thought about building one? buy a clean mk2 and a donor mk3 or rado vr? Best bet would be to have a drive of one and see what you think. Gav

i owe you a tasty beverage, did you get any joy with that tailgate? Gav

just got some prices from ford. That blue sensor is £20.75 (vw is £14.13) but a sump pan works out about a quid cheaper from Ford £63 as opposed to £64) Gav

"this thread is useless without pics!!" and possibly a sound clip :lol: Gav

Can you hear anything insde when your operating the lock? If all else fails, crawl insde and try and remove the plastic trim the covers the lock mech, youll see the connecting rods there, possibly one of these has popped off. Youll be able to see when your in there which one operates the lock itself so you might be able to open it manually with that. Gav

for some odd reason this is a common problem with the I5 20v turbo engine as found in the ur20v, s2, s4 and s6. They never seem to stay tight once theyve been used once and the crush washer...well er...crushed. Gav

ok, might be an option. Does anyone know where i can get the tool from? or can i borrow someones? quite happy to put down a deposit if necessary Gav

thanks for that, itll be a replacement low mileage bottom end rather than a rebuild though. Opinion on wether it might be stem seals or rings from the info ive given? Thanks

right, any help here would be greatly appreciated. Working on a rado vr at the moment, its had the head gasket replaced, Whilst it was being done it was found to have no thermostat. According to the owner this had been removed 2yrs previous due to overheating problems (which will explain why it always ran cold). The gasket didnt fail completely but had started to go and was losing a bit of water. Used a little bit of oil but nothing major, circa 1ltr per 1000miles which iirc is acceptable on a 160k engine which this is. Head was checked for trueness, all was fine and no cracks. H/G replaced as was new thermostat. Since this was done its started smoking quite heavily on overrun, most noticeable when changing donw through the gears and slowing down (like coming upto a roundabout or junction) Its using a fair bit of oil, the smoke out the back is mostly blue with a hint of white. Did a compression test and came up with the following no1 cyl- 160spi no2 cyl- 180psi no3 cyl- 160psi no4 cyl- 180psi no5 cyl- 160psi no6 cyl- 165psi According to autodata this seems to be within tolerance. Any ideas what this could be? initial thoughts were that it could be valve stem oil seals, but now leaning more towards it being the rings possibly due to it now working at normal operating temp and the oil being sucked up past the rings. When the plugs were romoved the rear 3 were slightly oily and sooted up but the front ones were nice and clean. Can the valve stem oil seals be replaced with the head still on? Am i right in thinking there is a special tool for this? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated Gav

aloha, we're not far from you in kent. Anymore pics? Gav

what sort of power are these things putting out? he wasnt mucking around either, saw the line he took as he went onto the slip road and the rear end twitching on the loose gravel as he tried to get accelerate away. Think the little vw surprised him somewhat :evil: Nice one Gav

pm sent Gav

how did you get on with this? If you dont mind coming down to sunny Kent im happy to give a you a hand. Gav

hmmm....sounds like sticking tappet. Check the breather valve that comes off the back off the head is in good condition. Has it had correct viscosity oil? Obvious Q but has it got oil in it? any blue smoke coming out the back when driving, especially on overrun? Does sound like one of the tappets isnt filling up properly. Is the noise defo coming from that side of the head and not the tensioner side and trasnmitting down with vibration? to check this get a screw driver and place it against where you think the noise is coming from, put your ear to it. Keep us posted Gav

pics please :)

yup, theyll bolt straight on Gav

:mad: fingers crossed

ok cheers will have a look now Gav

aloha, getting desperate now, trying to source a multi v belt for a z-engineering charger. The exact size needed is a 7DPK1710 mulit v belt. Theres a 5mm gap between the troughs. Can get away with a 6-rib or even an 8 or or 9 rib as i can take some ribs off. Anyone know of anybody that can make belts up to spec? Tried all the likely places like gates etc but no use Gav