keithmac

Remove the 4 allen bolts and smack it with a soft mallet, it should pop off. The clutch is on the other side of the engine :wink:

If it`s got Jaaba stamped on it it`ll NEED a decent rebuild!

When my G60 spewed it`s oil out I used a hot pressure washer, worked a treat!

It make me cringe everytime I see one of those.. I don`t begrudge paying for a rebuild, you`re buying the time, tool hire and experience as well as the parts.

I`d be tempted to go for the MS1/2 from the off personally, I wish I did. The k-jet flap has to be a restriction for starters, plus you could spend ages mapping the k-star only to have to do the lot over again when you fit the MS. Rip all the k-jet gubbins out and fit a BBM rail and propely sized injectors, spend time getting the mapping spot on and you`ll be laughing.

Worst thing you can do is snap an easy-out in there so be carefull if you use them, I prefer a good set of sharp drill bits and spend a bit of time drilling them out. You have to be accurate as said above, the pilot hole`s the most important to get right.

Doesn`t understeer at all, was getting quite a bit of provoked oversteer on the trackday I did after fitting them until I completely lost the back end and span it into the gravel trap, calmed down a bit after that.. Last outing at Donnington it handled like a dream, using my road coilover settings (just off fully soft), no complaints. It is a bit of a handfull on really rough roads though.

Yeh, 1 slip with the die grinder and you could write the charger off.

I run Neuspeed 25 front and 28 rear on the Golf, they are an excellent piece of kit, well worth the money, roesjointed fronts and good solid rear linkage/ adjuster. Wouldn`t fancy fitting the front one again though, it was a swine to get on!.

Looking good!

I`ll see how it goes with the header tank, will be pumped continuously I would have thought, it is a PWR cooler. G60 exhaust temp doesn`t get massively high anyway so it`s not going to put the A/W under much stress, it`ll be a lot better than the i/c I`ve got fitted at the moment at any rate. Plus if you heat 4l of water it`ll take quite a while to cool it down again, I`ll see how it goes and mod the setup to suite, the pre-rad is quite lage (3 pass) so it should do the job.

The pump is huge!

Well this is what I`m trying out, will post some results up when fitted. I`ve read it`s all down to the Amount of water flow and the size of the pre-rad, I`ll be running 1/2l of water in the header tank + whatever the system takes (2L tops?). I do mostly town driving so it seems the better option.

My G60 seemed to get to 15 psi quickly and then level off with a 65mm pulley, plenty of power but the oil seals couldn`t take 1 trackday presumably because it was being pushed too far at 7000 rpm? (I do take full responsibilty for knackering it). 68mm pulley is ok but it takes the edge off, 78mm pulley`s not worth fitting. I`ve heard 1 unsilenced video of a lysholm and it really did sound like an american fire engine, but I could put up with that for reliabily. I don`t do many trackdays, 2 or 3 a year but I don`t want to be doubting the engine when I`ve driven the car 200 miles or more to get there and I need to get back home in it as well.

dont know if renault owners with beru coils would agree I`m just going by the leads..

Cheers.

If I bought a VR I`d have to start all over again :lol:.

http://www.thinkauto.com or a company on e-bay make bespoke stainless lines..

Beru are original equipment, very good quality (better than Bosch in my opinion).

I`d like to here from anyone who`s swapped from a G60 to a lysholm twin screw or eaton supercharger. I think the Eaton (air beater) comes out worse due to the temp gain and apparent inability to boost over 10psi? would an M62 be the pick?. Also looking for any Lysholm owners to chime in, whats the power delivery like compared to a Stage4 G60? I`ve just bought an A/W chargecooler setup so maybe the cheapness of the Eaton will swing it.. Any comments apreciated :D

If I hadn`t spent so much on mine I`d probably have gone for a Scooby or Evo, 200 bhp+ from a FWD car will always get beaten by the 4WD from a standing start..

Ok AB, give me a PM if you get stuck.

I was looking for £50 for the pair.

Running 50/50 you`d definitely have to make sure the pump was viton sealed. Some people use WI as a 5th injector with the meths etc as added fuel, problem is you have to account for this while mapping to a degree, or run rich. Run plain water and it`s transparent to AFR`s, so you can map it very easily without worrying what you`re injecting is effecting the wideband readings. It`s all down to personal preference what mix you run, I prefer to use it for detonation, heatsoak control rather than extra fuel. The Aquamist site is your best bet, there`s a lot of info to take in.

more than 99p!