lj16v

VVVVV nice Charlie! You must be pleased with that! bet you can't wait to give it some proper beans :D Don't know if you heard already, but there is a track day at Castle Coombe on the 10th Oct (Audi day but they are letting us scummy VW's in as well this year!) If all is good with your car it might be fun showing up some Audi boys :grin: anyway, i'm thinking about going, may talk nearer the time..... laurence.

Nice wheels mate!! They are exactly what it needed, also looks like you will have the room for mahoooosive brakes that you NEED with all that power! vv nice :D

hey john, B@l*cks, just missed them! That wasn't you was it? Ah, well they wern't quite the perfect size, next time...

nice one zak, that was the answer i was hoping for!! :D Any idea (roughly) what thickness spacers i might need?

Aye up home boy! Hmmm, yes not a bad plan, but really really don't want to loose the brakes as they are pretty damn good when its all warmed up, certainly can't go back to 280's now!! By the way, she's running a tad lower now..... oh and i've still got the remainder of that paint with a few beers.

Hi I've got a VR with 312mm brakes (from MK4/tt). Question is; will BBS RS in 7 X 16" with an offset of et 33 clear them? Other option would be to run the rears on the front if the offset of et 24 helps? Rears are 8 X 16", so if i was to run back to front i can get wider dishes etc to make 8" all round. I don't mind running spacers if that helps and also not worried if that means i have to do arch work, my only worry is clearing the brakes!! Help, need to know soon! laurence.

Short answer is probably NO! Get springs and shocks as a kit, otherwise spring/damping rates will likely be mismatched and it will feel/ride like cr@p! There are plenty of cheepo kits out there, check out venom's website to get an idea. The more you spend the better but cheep kits are ok as a temporary measure, there are now some really cheep coilovers out there now which will do the job but don't think they will last for ever!!

^^^^^Yeah that's what i used. I've got MK4 rears also so the MK3 VR6 lines don't work with them so kind of a waste, although if you have standard rado rear calipers i think you can use the goodrich rear lines on there. Any one got advice on uprating the mastercylinder etc ?

Bloody hell! That was my old car!! :lol: looks like it came on a fair bit, shame about the fire, feel for ya. :( got any other pics of it when it has all done, pre fire? I'd just be interested to see what ya did to the old girl.

NICE! also not really mad about the totally smoothed front but seems to work! Yeah tan or deep red interior would work a treat. :)

Thanks^^ Not tried a presure bleed, had it done the old way by my favored garage (they seem v.good, they run their own race car!) pedle feel has got a tad better now after another bleed the other evening, we just wondered if the master cylinder is a bit tired (car's done 175K) so maybe a new/bigger one would help especialy now its pushing bigger pads? It dose seem to get better the more they bed in (although it's been a while now, must be over 1000miles), i think that maybe i was just expecting it to feel more like a modern car, MK4 or TT, where the brakes are a bit sharper and bite further up the pedle stroke. On the abs front, that is not my biggest problem, its only when i'm pushing the car hard and also it could be the damp/slippy conditions at this time of year! i guess that i've been used to the week 280's which just don't really have the power to start locking the wheels when you brake v. hard from SPEED! :cuckoo: Any other's have sudgestions on the pedle length/feel?...... :shrug:

Hi, done my 312mm conversion, followed all the usefull info on here :salute: However they've been a slag to bleed and get some decent pedle feel, the pedle feels too long and dosen't inspire the confidence it should (although when ur used to it then its no prob i guess) i had everything fitted/bled at my local VAG specialist and it still isn't quite right, although is now better that everything is bedding in and has been re-bled. My question; is it a good idea to change the master cylinder to one from a later car (MK4/TT) to improve feel and power, if so what do i need?? Do the the guys on here running big brakes (mr Wire etc) uprate the mastercylinder? Also do those running big brakes uprate the ABS system/sensors/rings? As i am finding that the ABS kicks in quite a lot now, usually only when i'm driving the knackers off it!!(all my abs sensors on the front are new). one other thing is that last night when we were re-bleeding the whole system, we noticed that the rear pads were a bit low and so i'm going to replace asap, but would low rear pads effect pedle feel much? advice please..... :D

Here are the contact details for the guy who made me some 6mm stainless spacers for the 312mm brake conversion. These allow you to line up the callipers/carriers with the disk correctly. (explined in the 312mm brake thread on here). Obviously this is a much better way of achiving this, rather than a stack of washers, it's your brakes afterall!! His name is Fred (Fred Pope Engineering Services) and his no. is 01929 426006 or 07879635504 (based in Dorset) He made mine for £20, there would probably be a little bit of postage on top i guess, you would have to talk to him about that. This guy is also fully kitted up with CNC lathes so if someone wanted to do a group buy (not me!) the price might come down. The spacers are 6mm thick with a 25mm outside dia and a M12 clearance internal dia, mention that Laurence gave you the contact details and he will know what you are talking about. I'll put some pics bellow. :D MODS, might be worth tagging this onto the 312mm thread? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfIMG_1997.JPG[/attachment:1wn3cpcx] IMG_2000.JPG[/attachment:1wn3cpcx]

nice mate, it looks the BOMB! :D

Well thanks for the replies guys, Dub_Nut you were spot on with the resistor, just disconected it as you said and hey presto stopped the flickering!! Thanks for that mate, probably wouldn't have even found the resistor if you hadn't said, as it is quite well hidden. We finally managed to get the main beam (Hids) to stay on when the full beam is on by changing some of the wires around, so the wire that should feed the sides now feeds the main beam (hids) and the wire that should feed the main beam now feeds the full beam (think that's right, the guy that worked it out is head of servicing at the local Audi dealer, just happened to be there at the right time, and tbh it all went over my head!!) This dose now mean that i have no side lights (just puts the Hids on straight away) which tbh are a bit pointless anyhow, will have to swap the wires back over come MOT time or find a friendly tester... Getting some 100w bulbs tomorrow for the full beam so should work well with the Hids, as at the moment there is a weird yellow patch in the distance amongst the almost daylight of the Hids, everyone should have these!! This Hid kit is a H4 one and only about £60 (the garage got them for me, think from China?), plus some naughty 100w bulbs for the full beam at £15/20, oh yeah and a fair bit of messing about! As for the legality, well yeah i read a fair bit about that on here, and well it is a bit of a grey area..... thanks again, and i hope this info will save someone a few hours in the future.

I've just had a set of Hids fitted to my standard headlights (with the orignial factory wiring loom). Firstly i can say that night driving is much much improved!!! However i do seem to have a couple of issues; 1. when i switch on just the side lights (1st position on the light switch) the Hids (main beam) flicker (although dont come fully on). The guys who fitted them yesterday noticed with the volt meter, that with the sides on there was a current leak to the main beam of (i think) 1 Volt, so this is causing the hids to flicker but obviously not enough juice to fire them up. So is this to do with the kit not being wired up correctly or a faulty fuse/relay or is the loom just cr@p and i need an uprated one? (if uprated is required can someone recomend a good one). 2. With the main beam on the light is great, however when i then pull back the stalk for full beam it turns off the Hid's!! So i just get a dim orange light!!! How can i get the Hids (main beam) to stay on with the full beam? Aside from those small issues i am going to fit some brighter bulbs for the full beam so it dosen't go all yellow with the full beam on. I'm going to do that straight away but also i'm thinking about getting another Hid kit to run the full beam, just want to know if that will work and if it will cause any electrical problems? look forward to ya thoughts.... :D

Damn!! nearly made the other side :lol: :lol:

ummmm, show us more...... :grin:

weitc GTN 300-330 Got them on mine and seem really good, not a true coilover on the back but still adjustable, fully height adj on the front. Think mine is now down about 50/60mm. Call weitc/kw and let them explain the set up :)

Just done my insurance through these guys, very good!!! My re-newal was £724.70 with 5 years no-claims, the best my broker could offer me was £422.35 (with £370 excess!) Chris Knott have done it for £320 with protected no claims and only £250 excess plus a few more add ons than my other offer (windscreen, replacement car etc) :D :D :D :D :D as you can understand, i'm quite happy with that!! This is on a 93 VR6, i'm 29, self employed and the car lives in a garage. :grin:

Just had a fairly major suspension overhaul on my VR...... New VW wishbones (inc standard bushes) , new VW rear axel bushes, new VW top mounts (ordered Supersport poly ones for the front but when it came to fitting, they looked a bit crap so went for VW instead), Weitec Hicon GTN kit (height adj coilovers at the front with height adj rear springs/shocks at 10mm intervals) seem like a very economical way to get into coilovers just means that the back is only adjustable in 10mm steps, Eibach front and rear anti roll bars, big rear strut brace (from the CF group buy) Got the work done at a firm called APD near Poole in Dorset, they are VAG specialists and seem to know their stuff (run their own Seat Leon race car). They let me hang out and lend a hand while they did the work, was really good to learn a bit more. Had a few issues like one of the bolts holding the wishbone to the subframe snapped!! so the subframe had to come out to remove it. Also the rear axel bushes were a total B*tch!!! got there in the end though. Quite a few quid later and the ride is much much improved, not too hard at all. The car is definatly much flatter through the corners. You do feel the potholes and serious ruts a little more but really not much more than the old original suspension, the back is now much more planted with the new rear bushes. i'm now on 16" Bbs rx with 45mm profile tyres, i'm sure it would more comfortable back on the original Speedlines, also i need new tyres soon which will improve the grip levels. I haven't measured it yet but i think it is down about 60mm (at the back its on it's lowest setting which is quoted as a 60mm drop) maybe a little more at the front, will get the tape out soon!! So for me the Weitecs get the thumbs up :thumbleft: unless you want to spend KW money. For your info, all the parts and fitting came to a very reasonable £1300 :D

all of the above sound good ^^ i've also heard that lighter fluid is excellent at removing stains, weird i know but worth a try. Err just don't smoke whilst doing this.... :nono:

hmmmmm, keep looking at it, quite like it but then there is also something just not quite right :confused4: maybe it just needs siting on it's arse with some slightly fatter rims, oh and an s-charged R36 :D :lol: :lol:

OOOH this is gunna be so nice!!!

Bloody hell! this happened to mine this morning! Anyway as i said above^^ just replaced fuse No. 16 (15amp) and hey it works!!