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mr.ots

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Posts posted by mr.ots


  1. I believe they fit but bear in mind that if its the front bumper then the fogs and indicators are different. the swage lines of the bumper (front and rear) are also a little different.


  2. I did this job on my car recently along with the sway bar bushes, links and ball joints and the car now feels superb upfront. Going to do the rear beam bushes next which should be fun.

     

    When you come to do the other side bear in mind that the sump will obstruct removal of the front control arm bolt (SLC). You either need to undo the front and rear engine mounts and raise the engine sufficiently for clearance or remove the sump. I went for the first option.


  3. I think people get a little bit too swayed by brand and price. Most expensive isn't always best.

     

    This review from Autoexpress (although a little old now) puts a Draper (a relatively cheap wrench) in first position over some more expensive competition and comment on it's "near perfect accuracy".

     

    http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/59647/torque_wrenches.html

     

    I tested both of my Draper wrenches against my friend's very expensive calibrated Snap On and they were both spot on.

     

    In this more recent Autoexpress review the Draper (4 stars) had a 2.29% average error against a 2.69% for the Teng (3 stars) costing over twice as much

     

    http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/233482/draper_30357.html

     

    If you are only going to be using a torque wrench occasionally then I don't think there is a lot of point in speding more than necessary.


  4. I don't think the lack of the engine is your problem. Even with the suspension at the full length of it's travel the ARB shouldn't touch the wishbone.

     

    As I mentioned in my last post, the slight angle at both ends of the ARB should point downwards. If yours are then it's fitted the correct way up.


  5. Great stuff there RW1. I've just checked mine and it's chassis no is within these ranges. So a 100% genuine Storm. On the subject of price I think you can charge a premium if you're able to throw in a lovely crisp Storm brochure with the car. Lol

     

    If yours is classic green then just because it falls within the range stated by RW1 doesn't confirm it is a storm. As he mentions, there were 8 classic green VR6's produced with beige leather which could have been badged as storms by owners.

     

    If you want to be completely sure then phone VW and they will be able to confirm.


  6. I refitted the wishbones and ARB today. When the ARB goes back on the slight angle on the ends should point downwards.

     

    I was amazed at how different the car drives, feels so much more solid up front. Just need to get the alignment done now and then see how well she drives with the new R32 bushes. :)


  7. lol! I'll take a look at the weekend; think I need to be actually looking at this when reading your description. Thanks so much for your help though; I'll let you know how I get on.

     

    Jim

     

    I had a look at my ARB today which is off the car and as davidwort said it should be flat in the centre when fitted the correct way up. If it is upside down the centre section would be pointing down towards the ground as this would be rotated downward in order for the droplinks to reach the wishbones, this way round the ARB will foul the wishbones.

     

    If your centre section is pointing down at the moment (U shape) then the ARB is upside down as it should be straight.

     

    When I previouly said it should be U shaped, this is with the ARB off the car and the ends (droplink ends) touching the ground.


  8. Do you mean an igntion coil for a distributor model or a coil pack (ignition transformer).

     

    For the 93 year model:

     

    The 9A engine is showing as an igntion coil in etka and the part number is 535 905 115

     

    The ADY and 2E engines show as a coil pack and the part number is 6N0 905 104


  9. Thinking about your statement that the ARB should be flat across the middle when on the car, this would coinside with the U shape when the ARB is off the car. When the raised ends are resting on the floor the centre section would be pointing down and forward (U shape).

     

    So this would mean that if the centre section was pointing down when on the car then the ARB must be upside down as the ends have had to be lowered to reach the wishbones.

     

    Hope that makes sense :)


  10. eh? :scratch: I thought the arb was flat across the middle of the car and then the ends came out and up and over the top of the wishbones, it does lok very similar but the ends should curve up and over so 'n' rather than 'u' shaped.

    I guess you mean looking from the front of the car, the side pieces would raise up, but then you can make it look like that even with the arb upside down?

     

    When I remvoed my ARB I noted that the bend in the centre was the low point and the outer sections raised up from this point as you look at it off the car from the front.


  11. The wishbones on the VR6 (plus axle) are sided. Removed mine today along with the ARB to change all the bushes. The ARB droplinks on the VR6 attach to the underside of the wishbone with a nut and bolt so you need to make sure the tab on the wishbone is pointing to the ground.

    The part numbers are also stamped on the wishbones.

     

    Left 1H0 407 151 A (VR6)

    Right 1H0 407 152 (VR6)

     

    All other corrados (standard Axle) use one wishbone (191 407 151 B) that can be fitted to both sides and the droplinks attach to the top of the wishbone with the bolt securing it from underneath. The droplinks often snap when the bolt is romoved.

     

    The ARB if removed can only be reinstalled one way otherwise it will foul the wishbones. the central bend in the wishbone needs to be pointing towards the ground when fitted.

     

    Hope this helps.


  12. I have to confess that I had assumed that the bush wasn't included with the wishbone as it is listed as a separate part in ETKA, but obviously this is to allow separate order of the bush alone.

     

    Anyway, I've got the R32 bushes, new ball joints, ARB bushes and brackets, droplinks and all of the associated nuts and bolts to carry out the change over. Still came to £215 to complete both sides but much better than £450 with the wishbones (probably a little less without the additional rear bushes that aren't needed separately).

     

    So I'll be under the car tomorrow removing the wishbones and fitting the ARB bushes. I'll probably clean up and hammerite the wishbones before refitting.

     

    I'll take a look at the tie rods while i'm carrying out the other work to see if they look like they need doing.

     

    once that lots complete it will be off for a 4 wheel alignment. When I did the top mounts a while back the car felt like it was on ice around corners until i had it alighened properly, it's definately essential.


  13. You only need the ignition on and not the engine running.

     

    If it's been sat for a long time its probably jammed. Remove the cover on the inside of the tail gate and you will see a winder in the middle of the spoiler mechanism, pull this out and it will allow you to turn it by hand to raise the spoiler manually. This might be sufficient to free it up.

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