2_Door_fun

A night back I wired my Spal fan to its own relay mounted in the bay. Removed the fan from the fuse box loom and wired it directly to the bat via a 40amp relay. Fitted an Awesome supplied Neuspeed low temp switch and amazing it still won't trip the fan.. I have had 3 G60's and all the fans have had this problem. Yet if you bridge the connection the fan spins up a treat!! Oh its a slim line SPAL fan. So now its back on the dash mounted switch but now atleast its via a good relay. Gutted I was. I'd love to see that fan spin up on auto pilot. No idea why the 60 is so troublsome with its cooling.

Wow I wish my G60 sat at 90 bang in the middle !!! Fitted and Awesome supplied Neuspeed 180 / 82 degree stat at the weekend full system flush and all new antifreeze and checked all the hoses. I have a real Spal fan fitted and its on a manual switch.. As ever the old G60 fan circuit still does not work. There is no way I have ever managed to get a 60 to run sub 100 well only in Winter when you really need a stat to have a heater haha. With the temp outside now around 14 degrees the 60 sits at 100 and the oil is chasing it even with a mocal 8 row cooler. I would like to wire the original fan circuit to the battery maybe with relays... The fan circuit is as poor as the headlamp circuit. Every 60 owner I meet always always asks does yours run hot... I bought a set of adjustable Koni's a week back from a fella Nr Preston and it was indeed the first thing he asked.. We both started laughing. Always interesting to hear theories on the old engine temps. I think its also interesting that Germans being German fitted a gauge with actual readings... Maybe if the gauge read like Fords with Blue for cold and Red for trouble and in the middle was the word NORM it would reduce engine worries lol.. I was thinking of getting a sensor kit that sits sits in the top hose.. 82 degrees to match the stat.. Wire it up direct. Would that help the engine some? Or is that really the wrong position for a new sensor? Interesting post chaps.. Rob

Thet are a set of Weitec's and though 4 years old they have few miles on em. It was a set of springs n shoxs purvhased from G-werks. Springs always look rough they are exposed to the elements and take a hammering from driving and what ever the weather.

Arghhhhhhhhh. Front near side spring decided to snap on the way to my re-test this morning.. I had to fit a new rear caliper and adjust the rear bearings from last weekend and then this... Why oh why

The Big Dish for me.

By all accounts its a tough job to do. Even for a pro. I have been told of stories where fitters may have ahemm damaged the replacement glass so they don't have to do it. Ie another has to go out when the new glass comes in. The glass is jig fitted at the factory and is only just big enough for the hole it fits. If you don't get it correct and bang on you will end up with wind noise and worse.. I reckon its a fitters job or at the least a spray shop that pulls glass for fun.

What an epic post.. Sir your not alone. My G60 is a bugger for getting hot. `same setup Rallye Ic, Slim fan - single speed and a mocal fitted with the original water exchanger removed. I have a terrible time getting the fan to come on as it should. I have to have it on a dash mount switch. My previous G60 was also a nightmare to get the fan working... Always as if there is not enough voltage to trip the rad switch but when I test with a meter its fine. Anyway good luck with the work, owning a 60 is medal earning!! Rob

Hmmmmm. I may just pull the pump on the 60. I have sim problems.. Always good pulling a pump.. Now which way do I twist it to lock it back in to the tank......!

I've had boost gauges fitted to the FPR. Cut the pipe going from the FPR at the end of the fuel rail. T peice it and then rejoin the two halfs and then the third junction to your boost gauge.

Unbeliavable job. Indeed much swearing. What a day. I am in pain.. Dam it was he hardest thing I have ever done on the C. I have pulled engines n transmissions and fitted clutches loads of stuff but this!! A couple of quid for rubber and all day in the S~@&.. Nightmare. Didn't use a clamp just used a 2nd jack and pressed the subframe in to place then spun the bolt in. Getting the rubbers in place was awful. I wished I had dropped the sub frame and made a cup o T and just done it that way. I did a friends C class merc the other week.. 30 minutes job done!! Roll bar goes round the front of the engine.. Well easy. Still I spotted that the rear brake compensator was rusted and in a bad way.. That is a def MOT failure so thats now freed up. Cheers for the replys. Not used the forum for an age good to be on it again. Rob

You may well need a third arm and a breaker bar for that job!

Errrr yes that would be the way i AM DOING IT.....What I sould have done 3hrs back was dropped the sub frame! Now with my new third arm I am wining! Cheers for the help

Yep that is the way I am doing it. Ta muchly. Its a task and I don't want to do it again! Pulling the head off is easier!!! Rob

I agree it should be obvious but not so... It can fit either way but it was just one of those moments when under the car and you think ah! I shall proceed as I am with the split facing towards the front of the car and the groove will then I believe let the hook on the collar slide in. Ta for the reply

Hello all. This is dumb question...I know. Removed roll bar yesterday threw the old bushes away! Can't remember which way round they go... Is the split in the new rubbers to the base or to the rear? I presume to the base as there is a groove in the rubber to slip the hook for the coller in to? Cheers Rob

Indeed I have and it was no better.. Its a nightmare really. Much investigation is needed before doing this. The more you read the more it may not be woth doing. You only get the affect you want at night with the headlamps on. Otherwise its electrics time and new bulbs and holders. Still have no idea whay I can't get the black bacground and red display.

Hi All...Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh What! :censored: No matter what I do the display glows red and so do the numbers? What happened to the black background. I have looked, searched and read loads of info and been through LCD link and also read Grade A's write up... This post on fortitude with no responces is exactly my problem.. Fortitude So frustrated that I broke a chunk of the stepped edge of the small LCD :bad-words: :censored: :epicfail: Spare set of clocks from the loft come in to play. So what am I doing wrong aside from snapping glass

Ta for the reply. Yeah the 2 holes for the edge screws were a bit short. Well one was short as one will obviously be fine. Nothing a jewllers file couldn't sort. I rekon a thicker screen seal wouldn't go a miss.. Still it does look so much better thsn the original item.. Or rather half an item that I had. Cheers Rob

Hi all.. Have been out this morning fitting bits to the C. New heater vent seal and the like. Now those are done I have just dug out the SWG single piece panel!!! Not the best of fits. Screw holes don't line up with whats in the body. Sure I can sort those out with a dremel. When fitting thre panel do you remove the blower vent/ECU rain cover :shrug: Or leave it in place and force the scuttle down! Ta muchly Rob

It does indeed look like a lift pump. Some cars came with a 2 pump system. My 91 G60 has a single pump unit. A very solid bit of kit. Not at all like that. The single pump unit is a semi sealed unit that has (by all accounts) has no servicable parts.. Mine has the Pierburg pump there is a VDO unit that is a replacement but you will need a new fuel level float arm as your standard 1 may not fit it.. I pulled my pump the otherday as I'm having a little trouble with it.. Very expensive to replace! As everything is that has VW followed by G :eek:

Hi.. Rod bolts are splined so they grip the the piston con rod and the cap.. As you tighten it stops the bolt spinning so you can reach torque. As you can see the standard and ARP are different. The ARP has bigger more agressive splines and also has em in the centre of the bolt. Its the splines that worry me.. They wil need to be pushed through the metal of the con rod and cap.. Ie cutting in to it.. If I open the ARP pack and they are wrong I can't return and get the correct items.. So I need to know.. Bit weird that the ARP pack sez Rabbit engine IE golf. More shots of the days work to follow..

Hi I was wondering if your engine survived this bottom end re-build? I am (this morning) in the process of fitting new shell bearings and such to the yellow peril. The ARP bolts do indeed have bigger splines! Did they work out or not? I have been asked not to open the pack in case they are the wrong bolts then they can be sent back for the correct items. Pack No is VW Water cooled - Rabbit engine.Pack .No: 1004 - 602 I have checked the ARP cataloge in the states and along with Rabbit it sez Corrado all models?? Ta muchly. Rob

Undo the two hoses that pass through the bulkhead and use a short length of copper pipe to connect em.. Heater mtrix is bypassed, Job done

A random question but relevant to my current job.. Oil pumps for the G60.. Does anybody know the differences between the various VW oil pumps that all look the same. The only thing that seems to vary on a visual level is at the drive shaft some have a blade end and some have a splined end.. The bodys and many of the pickup tubes seem the same are there differences in the amount of oil that they pump by the use of different gears? I ask as why o why is a 60 pump so expensive?? Others are not.. Examples below....

Ta for the reply. Cap bolts are con rod bolts. As for the pump. I have found the Corrado 's always seem to have low oil pressure I have had 3 G60's and put pumps in two of em. So as I need new bearings thought I might see if the mythicl high pressure pumps really exsist. Ta muchly