2_Door_fun

This is a very very common problem on G60's previous cars I have had and my current one are no diferent. I have no idea why. As you have done my fan as on old car is on a dash mounted switch. I can short the fan and it works fine. maybe its something to do with voltage at the switch not enough to click the circuit over. many new thermo switch's and none of em solved the issue. The rads were not blocked. The later c's have a relay block near the water res.. None of my 60's had this. Guess they were to early for this bit of electrical work. No idea if jerry rigging one of these in would help???? As for the stat..yes that to is a pain. As Supecharged sez what colour is the tank cap.. Get a new one they are Blue. The old ones are prone to falure. It only fts one way round so its in or its not. Fit it and run the car hard it will force the water round. Fill the engine from the top hose or from the small hose to the cooler. This will force water further in and round the block. I also pulled the hose to the matrix and filled that. I have even been known to suck on the top hose and pull water all the way through the system... :gag: running the car at revs does force it through the engine. failig that drill the edge of the stat with a 1mm bit. This will stop air locks at the stat. more on fannige problems here

Got the dizzy out.. Stubby screwdriver under the base lip and it can be levered out with a bit of a fight.

Evening.. If you have already fitted a new atarter to the car and changed the bush then it should be fine to leave the current one in place. They do wear but usually its over many years of use. Ie ten year lifetime of a facory starter then its time to change the bush. As regerds the copper bush its a bearing for the motor armature. It helps support the shaft and is a perfect fit. Its also an inerferance fit...Ie it needs to be tapped in to place with a suitable impliment..You need to remove the old one as they are usually worn thin. Get a broad flat bladed screw driver jam it in and twist. It should break it free. Don't do what I did recntley :nuts: click herefor a read :cuckoo:

Been doing muchos on the car of late.. So I have got hold of a brand new Distributor, fortunate as the old one is shot...So how does one fit the item. Had a look in my Bently it tells how to set up the timing marks and then it drops in to HAYNES terratory!! It sez 'Fit Distributor' :scratch: I remove the adjuting clamp at the base and then is it just a good pull???? The new one seems to only have an 'O' ring is it just the clamp and a good seal that holds it in place? I have given it a good pull :norty: but no luck. Seems well attached to whatever is down there.

Whipped off the inspection plate after I got in from work tonight.. No cigar I'm afraid :( Just not any space between the flywheel n the bell housing. So its pulling the transmission on Saturday morning.... Unless their are other ideas?? I don't think I can leave it bouncing around in the bell housing. More to come..

Will she favour the 'reaching the bush from the front, using an extendable rod' or the 'removing the rear inspection plate and sticking a couple of fingers in' route? :norty: :scratch: I believe the rear inspection plate is always available as it always should be. I find that its always best two go for the two pronged approach when in these situations. Using the extendable rod from the front and teasing from the rear you always seem to get what your after that way. :grin:

I can see you doing it Cillit Bang style Shouting "Hard to reach? You need......." Its copper, pain really guess cos its an oil free bearing. Your grabby thing ..Does it have a camera n light? Endoscope style Lol..

Oh mate if your correct and I can get at the offending item...Hell you can come round my house and :norty: my sister....... I shall report back this evening. Game on

Evning all. Arghhhhh. Was fitting a new starter motor tonight. Removed the old gearbox bush well it virtually disentergrated as I prised it out. Went to fit the new item it drops of me finger tip n drops into the bell housing!!!!!!! :censored: What do I do....Do I leave it :eek: Or do I slide the transmission acros an inch n see if it drops out....

Hi Smiffy, Indeed The pipework yeah I did see n think Space Shuttle main engines :D Bloody nice car though my friend.. Love the colour sets the wheels off a treat.

Greetings. Nope just the bolts n the cross head screw holding the brake duct in place and the bumper will pull away. As for going to more depth yes you can do this on many cars. The IC can flow more air but the IC is not as eficent at cooling the air. The slim chracteristics of the G60 or rallye IC enable the air to be spread over a large area with little depth. This enbles more eficent cooling. All a bit spody I know but there you go.

Afternoon....Just (heavy night last night) Well if your going for an IC of other shape n size look at these posts... Intercooler link Intercooler Link 2 Always good to have the photo's they do say a thousand words.. Removing the bumper is a doddle. First sit at front of car and find the opening to the drivers side brake duct, there will be a cross head screw holding it in place. Spin this out or as you pull the bumper it can crack the plastic. Jack up the beast slide in under and find 4 17mm bolts..2 each side They have a smaller bolt between them...DO NOT REMOVE THE SMALL BOLT.....OR THE ENGINE WILL FALL ON YOUR HEAD...Basically the small bots hold the front cross member in place. The two big ones spin out easily just use a good socket. The Pass side are easier to get two. Often the drivers side brake duct needs to be undone and oushed to one side to get at 1 of the two bolts. Once these are out pull the bumper towards you and there you go. As for removing the front slam panel.. Its easy remove the headlights grill n bumper. There are about 10 bolts that are 10mm heads. Two at the base of the poanel the centre leg as it were. 1 each side where the bumper wraps round, two each side below the headlights, each side down the side of the lights inside the engine bay and two each side at the top of the panel near where the bonett slam pins slot home. Thats about it I think? Happy chopping n cuting my friend.

Evening.. I had a little more fun fitting mine but I reckon I was being tender to the old girl. In the end I just got stuck in with the old angle grinder. I wanted to retain the front tow eye most just cut it off and do with out.. I thought it may come in useful one day!! With luck I hope not. The Rallye is basiclly the same core ize as the Golf G60 but the inlet is different. The IC pipes can be sourced from Samco as a 3 piece kit. Charger to IC inlet then outlet to hard pipe and then an elbow that fits to your custom built inlet pipe holding the CO pot. As 'Just say Meth said really' The pipes can cost as much as your IC ad then you need t source a rallye U or fabricate you own set up. All in all bloody good fun fiting it. I'm nver happier than when I'm cuing and fitting. Then the car goes back together an nobody is none he wiser. I shall be welding the cuts I made to the Tow eye set up this weekend. Will post more shots as n when. Glad ya spotted the 'How To' I didn't !!!!!!!!! :D

greetings... yes the fitting of The Rallye IC will finish this weekend.. Claimed a 'U' bend gasket from flea bay last week. thats fitted and the IC is fitted off to get a cast 'U' bend this week n a yellow IC silicone hose kit....Then get a couple of pipes bent to shape n a CO pot holder welded in and vroooooooommm... oh need to re-route the oil cooler pipes so they come up under the lower plate and its all back as it was.. Hmmmm then its Big brakes time and a respray yaaaaayyyyy. Summer is coming and I have a yellow G60 :D Hay Cheesey did you check the knowledge base? There is a How to fit a FMIC there.......Oh the irony aye Andy lol..... :D

I think the Reiger 3 slat looks different on a VR6 and makes the VR6 look different.. I have often thought this, I reckon its cos the VR6 is a 'Fatter' car. The bonnet curve n heavier wings don't give it as sleek a look as the earlier 4 pot cars. Its prob sitting pretty well, maybe best to look at other Vr's to compare like for like.

Hi.. no I actually made two small L brackets in alloy and then riveted them to the lower panel on the slam and then drilled the two plastic tabs and screwed them in to the alloy brackts!!!!! I mean do I lie about my own work!!! This helps to stop the grill flapping and holds it in place which is the point of your post.. As for the headlights slight trimming and they slipped under the wing edge. No problems after that.

See mine here. Near the bottom of the post. look for the crash photo's Yellow G60 You can just see two small supports at the base of the grill. These are two small 'L' brackets pop riveted on to the front panel.. Also the top of the grill was drilled and 4 screws going along the top of the slam panel. Stll none matters now as the car ws smashed up two days later!! She nearly back on the Rd. New grill everything heading for a respray next month.

Oh good. I have been wondering where that is supposed to slot in for ages now!!! Its amazing sometimes I do loads on the car n pay mega attention and all goes back in perfect.. I swap an engine mount pay no attention and im left with a bracket hanging and the question...'Where is that supposed to go??

Hi mate.. Its like any other fit for an exhaust.. You can sort it by pulling n fiting clamps n straps and the like. As for getting in to shine it up...Well you could remove the bumper no big deal just a few bolts n it slides off or you could do as most of us hve..Get a dremmel and tube of Autosol and get it polished. The Dremmel is a great tool and really is part of the 'Needed' toolkit for adding and removing items to your pride and joy. It will come with small polising pads and its size will allow you to do the pipe wih the bumper on.

Hi. To be honest we could do with a couple of good shots of the actual hoses n how they are routed..My C once failed on the hoses having to much free play and not being correctly atached to the shocker tubes....Able to foul on anything !!! Go figure.. See here for the post and photo's

Greetings Adie of the Flusted... yes the yellow corrado with half of the isle of white bolted to it is still in repair. The plug has popped due to the coldness here and the aparrent lack of anti freeze in the engine... It not been on the rd since June at least n has had water dropped n added many times.. I guess I just didn't put enough AF in it. So reckon the block could be a duffer?? Or did the plug popping save me ass! Ta bud Rob

As it sez.... Walked up the drive tonight n saw a tell tale pool of wet concrete!! N thought O S**T... :shock: Sure enough a core plug was found under the car... So is this a good sign? Ie better than the block splitting :( So how does one refit a core plug obvious I tap it in but does it need sealing ?? Ta all.

Waheeeey its in... It was the tow eye just needed a little more taking off. The inlet was just holding up the pass side leg from dropping in to its mount hole. Just me being a little cautious with the old girl. So game on its time to buy a U bend n some pipework to be bent to shape... Best to see if teh fan cowl will go back in place or I'm fitting the Spal fan with no cowl!! I shall be welding the Tow eye mount up this weekend n cleaning up the weld. Soon it will be off to the sprayers for a new full coat of Nugett Yellow :D Bling

morning morning.. Cheers for the shots.. looking at your build n mine I don't feel so ban now Lol :D HEHE ahh a driver after me own heart...I love it when the neighbors walk past!!!! All seems very much the same when looking at the clearance at the charger return pipe area. I did think about removing the rad peg but your idea seems good. What did you use to weld the peg back on? I think maybe I need to remove a little more metal from the tow eye to get the IC to sit true and in its own space kinda so its free to move a little not forced in when I attach or try n avoid anything. Still can't believe I missed that 'How To' in the Knowledge base !!!!! I also saw that if I use a longer screw I can attach the rad n IC together at the battery side. So all in all I'm relieved it seems to be going to plan.. As for the tab for the slam panel...yeah that came off with the grinder. yeah that U bend is nice GWerks also do em in Supercharger section. I did think about Silicone n stuff but I reckon the real thing is better. Just a money pit is the G60 but its my money pit hahahahahahahahha Cheers for sticking with the questions Andy More pictures to follow Rob

Hi Andy. Here ya go few more shots, As you can see the Pass side peg on the IC is not in its hole and the Drivers side Rad peg is not in place either.. Also The Rad fan n housing is removed. If I get the IC peg in the mount hole I'm propper forcing the Rad up against the Battery and the Return system?? If I take the rad of the pegs then the IC sits OK? The front shot is with the Pass side peg still out of its mount, but as I said the fan is removed and the cowl. They seem to hit the starter n stuff??? All other build ups I have read show the IC going in with a little work n yr away but the job so far has been interesting. Maybe the IC is twisted but it seems not to be when I took a look. In the Wikki write up that the man of G has written he mentions removing a 'TAB'??? What does that mean cutting off one of teh rad pegs as you have done?? In answer to your question on a U-Bend I was going to get a 180 hose but looking at it I think I'm gonna get the real Rallye outlet and do it propper. Cheers for the replys Oh g-dub cheers for that on the biiiiiiiig rad I took a look for one wow its massive. Does that fit in the Corrado??? Theres hardly an room now Lol Rob