dil

Just put an order in with dubpower for a set, I hope they are better than what I currently have, as 2 have snapped at the coil pack end leeaving a tiny bit hanging on inside which has the circlip.

have you guys any recommendations on a replacement set of leads? thanks Dil

did you guys wire in the clutch pedal switch, is it important? I have weird over revs between shifts, and reading on vw vortex i think this down to a faulty one of these or in my case a lack of one of these

thanks mate for confirming , i was gearing my selfup to take that front end off.....again.

does the intake manifold mate up flush to the block when bolted down or does the rubber gasket sit inbetween causing the intake to slightly away from the mating face with the block?. when i put the intake back on after refitting the exhaust manifold the way the intake sat has always concerned me

ok , i think i may need to check my plunger is working properly, it only seems to operate under sharp stabs of the throttle in the upper rev range, does this sound normal? anything in vagcom to allow me to test it on the move?

based on the video below of 30-100 acceleration starting in 2nd gear, try and ignore the slack up shifts , would you say that the engine is producing fairly linear power throughout the rev range? Notice any issues? Trying to determine if I should be noticing vvti switch more than I do .

cheers will defintly keep you inmind, how come you decided to keep yours , i'm pretty sure we spoke last year and you were looking to sell, or was that someone else......

ok, i'll be happy if i make standard as it is, good to know that remap can release a few more ponies. Speed signal is now sorted to the ECU, i'm not entirely sure what else hasnt been spliced in that should have been , but i'm working my way through it. have a mk2 waiting to do with the same setup , so learning lots from the teardown of the mk3 and the info in this thread.

MKIV, so decat and manifold has negligible impact on these motors ability to produce more power? i need to see if i can get the following to work at some point 0-60 and quarter mile http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/acceleration.html bhp & torque http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/examples/Block_120_Tutorial.xls

I've also had to ditch the ECU that i had , k-line had been disabled, and just made problem solving a real issue. The Car runs 90% fine on the current ECU which reported all the previous faults, but that ECU is still looking for rear lambdas, the new ECU is having all those errors plus rear lambda coded out, so i'm hoping this will sort out the missing 10% of performance. anyone had their cars rolling roaded on standard ECU power config? I'm off to a rolling road session on sunday , just wondering what numbers I should expect to see out of my car if its running reasonably well....

Sam, I ditched the single lambda setup and had bosses installed in my dubpower manifold, i now have 2 pre-cats and 0 Post -cats, which i believe is the norm for such conversions.

so it turned out to be a lack of VSS signal back to ECU. Fixed this and rev limit/safe mode hasn't kicked back in.

guys so i ditched the single lambda setup as the car just wasn't putting out what i felt was a decent power. The car now feels rapid but...... i've ran vagcom on the car and i have the following errors, one of these or maybe all of them is causing the car to go into safe mode, i can clear the codes down on the move and the car comes out of safe mode but then shortly goes into back safe mode. Any idea which of these could be the cause of the car going into "safe mode"? VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Saturday, 20 April 2013, 10:31:31:0 Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 CP Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1 6463 Software Coding: 0000132 Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 VCID: 5BC9146FDA3D 5 Faults Found: 17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit P1426 - 004 - No Signal/Communication 19475 - Valve for Exhaust Flap 1 (N321): Open Circuit P3019 - 004 - No Signal/Communication 17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Open Circuit P1433 - 004 - No Signal/Communication 17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit P1432 - 004 - No Signal/Communication 16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Implausible Signal P0501 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

What do u think about the condition of these plugs anything to be worried about , 2nd from the bottom is very crusty ,

does anyone have this part # for a 95 VR6? cheers

Update: I recalled on Friday that all this lot started after I replaced the blown aux pump fuse So I took this fuse back out have done at least 100 miles since and no loss of coolant. So I'm not sure currently if the leak is at the pump or one of the pipes leading off it but its all good for now.

thanks for the replies, checked the oil cap this morning after refilling the bottle and a spirited drive to work, no sign of Mayo but i had lost half a bottles worth of coolant again. Car doesnt over heat, no misting up inside. Given your advice. I'll do some investigation over the weekend. Check dipstick for mayo. Check for wet car parts inside. Check for leaks around the pipes in the engine bay.

this weekend i opened up the bonnet to notice my expansion tank empty, filled it back up, drove to work, got the coolant warning light on the way back home , filled up the bottle again, drove to work in the morning opened up the bonnet to check the coolant level and i'd lost half a bottles worth over 20 miles. i've got a small amount of mayo under the oil cap , should i expect the worse?

its a mk4 R32 engine, age unknown, the car was already built when I purchased it, i'm know educting myself in readyness for a mk2 r32 conversion thats waiting to be started. I'm getting a steady flow out of the return water pipe, which i had assumed means the pump is fine?? the rads warms up , both bottom and top pipes warm up to the point they cannot be held for more than a few seconds by hand. The fans tend to pulse on and off when they do run, i have checked the fans by bridging connections at the fan switch connection block and they work fine on both speeds , so i think either the fan switch is knackered or my controller is knackered, the electric pump is working. correction i only have one lambda connection in the link pipe, nothing in the manifolds. When i recently ordered the manifold for the mk2 conversion Peter from dubpower also commented that two in the manifold were not required and one in the link pipe was all that was needed, we still got the two in the manifold due to reading that this is what was required in a setup. Below is a pic of the lambda plug, it has 6 wires intotal i think

I recently swapped out the stat in my r32 and now i've got a massive air lock or i have been super unlucky and my water pump has gone , as my coolant temp is up and down during any journey, so need an oil temp reading to give me some comfort. whats the consesus on how many lambdas are required for optimal running, as mine only has one in a dubpower manifold using standard management tweaked for one lambda , i've read that this isn't ideal, the posts were quite old on vwvortex, so not sure if this still stands true.

i enquired a month or so ago , £30 for the knob

ah ok, so in the housing is the same as the oem system found on VR6, i would have thought that this would work great , is it the use of a Tee thats messing with the reading you are receiving? would the use of one of these adaptors for the sump be an adequate solution, i dont fancy drilling a hole.... http://www.rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensor-adaptors/oil-temp-pressure/oil-temp-sensor-sump-plug-adaptor-m14-x-1.5mm

did you guys fit the oil temp sender in the oil cooler housing?

quick question i've never been able to scan the engine using 409.1 but i am able to scan the ABS unit, is this normal for an r32 conversion using mk4 loom? I am using an ebay jobbie cable (blue one), but it works perfectly on a vr6 golf. what i have tested Port 4 Earth?yes Port 7 Live?yes about 9.3 volts Port 16 Live?yes about 12.5 volts from what i have read these bunch of wires at the top of the fuse box are all OBD related? I assume one comes in from the ECU and one out to the port?