Junior Jackson

Stroll on - just to inject a bit of topic here - as far as I understand running rich (or overfueling) has not (much) to do with flames in the exhaust - certain types of race engine do it because they are running really lairy cams with loads of overlap - e.g. when the valve lift is increased (to increase flow) the valves are naturally open a lot longer (they can only open and close so fast without bouncing them in the seats) and therefore the overlap period (the period when both inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time) is much larger. It's inevitable that when you lift hard off at high revs some unburnt fuel will get through into the exhaust and Bob's married your Auntie. Chris.

Thanks for the comments. It'd just be a temp measure whilst the G60 lump gets rebuilt - are there any issues at all with swapping them out? Nothing's every THAT easy for me... Chris.

Anyone help? Just want to know major differences between head and block etc - question is can I swap 1H (former rallye) engine into '92 G60 rado? Thanks, Chris.

RS VR6, do you (or anyone else) know what the rims are on the blue rado (the 16's presumably)? Thanks, Chris.

http://volkswagen.msk.ru/electro/corr94.zip Page 34. billinjahg60, this pic http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download.php?id=29708 shows where the loom plugs into the junction connector on the top rear of the Corrado fusebox. The power (black) and switch lighting (blue / gray) both plug in here. You will need to flip the fusebox down to get at them... The three black (grey looking) connectors plugged in the top are all switched 12v - you can see there is a spare slot for another connector on the left. The lighting block is to the right of it and has the same spare slot (on my '92 G60...) Chris.

Re-reading, I realise you are questioning whether you have the cables swapped totally - i.e. the temp cable running the flaps and visa-versa. If you have it shouldn't matter - the movement at one end is translated into the same movement at the other end - it does not matter how long the cable is in the middle. I still think you should be able to adjust your 'stops' by moving the outer sheath in the clips. Watch the mechanism at the back of the controls whilst moving the offending slider - you should be able to see which one and in which direction. Hope that helps, Chris.

2_Door_fun, if you have the windscreen (top black) cable right, the other two are temp control and vent control - you should be able to tell really easily if you have the cables swapped... If they are right but not travelling correctly, you can usually adjust them by undoing the clip which clamps the cable sheath (at either end) and moving the sheath backwards / forwards. I had to do this with one of mine to get the travel right using late cables and late controls on an early box. I adjusted them at the control end and action is spot on now. Factory as fcuk... Chris.

You animal sir :nono: Piccies finally attached (hopefully..)

OK - update. Old dash is out (in the dark on the street..). You do not need to remove: a) Steering wheel b) Glovebox c) Right or left hand side vents (you will need to pull the ducts off the back and you will probably need to remove them to replace the dash, to ensure the ducts line up properly etc.) d) You can also get away with not removing dash speakers and pull the plugs out as the dash comes out. My issue now is that as the bottom late cubby hole is deeper, (as described previously) the bracket in the dash shell is further back to take the two screws that screw through the back of the cubby hole. This bracket, however, also has a stud which holds the bottom of the dash in place, by bolting through another bracket which is bolted to the floorpan. This bracket on the floorpan, therefore needs to be about 3/4 of an inch further back to accept the late dash. I'm guessing there's a different bracket for early and late models. ETKA only appears to show a 'retainer' for LHD models?? I'm going to measure the exact difference between the two bracket depths on the dash shell and bend the floor bracket for now. If anyone has actually done an early to late full dash swap and could comment I'd be grateful. Pics to follow... Chris.

They are the same at the heater box end but completely different at the control end - see my other post re. early to late interiors... Chris.

Christ - I've written a book... :oops:

Actually - yes you can fit it but you will need to break out the Dremmel :). I have had my dash to bits a couple of times to see if this is possible. At the moment it's sitting in bits and I'm just about to remove the entire dash shell to replace it with a late one. Believe me, if I could get away without swapping the entire shell I would... The late centre console (plastic part that holds the radio, heater controls etc) mostly has the same mounting points as the early one - the heater controls mount to the plastic console only, so Jay's comment about you requiring a bracket to hold them isn't true. The problem, however is that the bottom cubby hole (which has two mounting screws at the back of it) is much deeper on the late console and the bracket on the dash shell is placed further back accordingly. You could, therefore, fit a late console with heater controls and ashtray, cig lighter etc to an early dash shell but you would have to chop the rear off the cubby hole and you would lose the screw mounting points. (As well as losing all of your loose change in the back of the cubby hole... :wink: ) So far I have changed all of the switchgear for late, using the individual late looms all the way back to the fusebox. There is an individual loom for the fog lights and heated rear window switches which plugs straight into the back of the fusebox - get this when you get your late switchgear and have fun getting at the back of the fusebox to remove the old and plug the new in :) Tip of the day is for removing the plugs from the back of the fusebox. Many are single or twin wire plugs, with just a plastic spring clip holding them in, but the loom multi-wire plugs are in the middle of the rear of the fusebox. These plugs have a plastic spring clip at one end and and you can spend a merry half an hour with screwdrivers and fingers trying to get the plug out. If you don't know what's coming next, you will probably do as I did and snap the round plastic pin off the other end of the plug whilst ripping it out. It's only when you study this broken pin that you realise there's a locking mechanism built into the fusebox to hold the multi-plugs in. On the left hand side of the fusebox (looking from the front), there is a small round black button which you press in (to the right) - this slides a bar right across the middle of the fusebox and allows the multi-plugs to be removed when their spring clips are operated. Arse. Once the new plug is in place, the mechanism needs to be pushed back across from right to left, to lock the plugs back in place. If this has been covered somewhere else I apologise - the grief it has caused me is unbelievable. Upshot is that I have full late switchgear with full factory loom and connectors. Apologies for no pictures - that would have made the day even longer... I have also swapped the early heater controls for late - all that is required to do this is the controls themselves and the slide cables (the heater box ends are the same on both, but the late cables have the round 'wound' ends at the control end, as opposed to the 'bent' ends on the early cables). You will also need an electrical connector for the blower switch as this is very different on the later models. The two bottom cables are easy to get off at the heater box end (with the dash in place) - the third one (the vertical one) is bloody hard - I had to remove the bottom part of the ducting to get at it and still had a right job. As an aside - the late heater box has a different design - the top vertical 'windscreen flap' cable is fixed 'upwards', instead of 'downwards' as on the early boxes, which would make it easier to access. I hope this makes sense - difficult without photo's I know... Anyway - going out now to remove rest of dash shell and swap for late unit - total factory swap then. Out of interest - the headlight switch is a straight swap late for early (same connector) and you can swap late outside vents into an early dash no problem. Also - someone said the early switches would fit into a late dash (or possibly visa-versa..) - they won't. Late switches (heated rear window, fog lights, abs sensor, heated seats etc) are a lot wider than the early and so they are not compatible either way. You could dremmel the late one's into the early dash if you wanted.. :oops: With hindsight, I should have taken some photo's and done a proper how-to but I hope the above helps. If anything can't be understood etc just let me know. Off topic but out of interest - 'proper' late heated seat looms will plug straight into the back of the fusebox to keep things nice and factory - you should have two plugs on the end of the loom - a black wire (power) and a blue/gray (switch lighting). There are two connectors on the top of the fusebox towards the right hand side. One of the connector blocks had three connectors plugged in all with black wires and the other had three connectors plugged in all with blue / gray connectors. Both places had space for another connector so i just slung them straight in and 'factory as you like' ™ 8) (there should be a couple of relays in separate holders sat (clipped) on top of the fusebox - the connector blocks are either between or to the right of these as you look at the front of the fusebox. They are hard to see as the plugs plug in from the rear.) Chris.

Cue Majik with an uprated wiper motor loom. Need more room for relays...

I was waiting until I had done the boot lock (just the same but a bit harder to get the barrel out) to finish this how to, but you might as well have it now and I'll post the finished one later (probably after weekend). Chris.

The even better and simpler way without touching anything electrical at all is to remove the cover from the inside of the tailgate and pull out the small black plastic 't' shaped thing which allows you to manually raise or lower the spoiler. This disconnects the motor and gearbox from the control lines to the two spoiler posts. No loose wires, motor and gearbox will still spin away but no active spoiler. Did this on mine as one side is completely loose and don't want it raising all lop-sided. (Story of my life...) Chris.

It depends on what 4wd system you're using (full time vs part time). The VW syncro system only transfers power to the rear wheels when the fronts slip so under 'average' driving conditions it doesn't sap any power at all. The later haldex type deliver a varying amount of power to the rears depending on wheel slippage, driving conditions etc etc. Just the extra weight to carry around as Paul says. Chris (Two Mk2 syncro's, One eight valve Mk2 GTI, one 91 G60 Rado and a partridge in a pear tree.)

Which PIAA lamps? Halogen, Super white, Superwhite + white, platinum white, platinum competition, xtreme white, xtreme white plus, extreme force, chrome mirror white, plasma spark blue, super plasma, plasma ion yellow or power sport? Also - what wattage are people running? the highest PIAA do is 150/150w. This seems pretty extreme even with an uprated loom - what's the practical highest people are running? Chris.

Any news on the poly mounts development / availability / cost?? Need to get at least front one changed very soon... ta, Chris.

Cool - thanks. I'm going to drain the system, pull the hoses from the bulkhead and try and flush out the matrix and check the valve etc. in the morning. I understand from a quick search that this valve is the mod performed under the recall - e.g. to prevent over-pressuring the matrix. I guess it vents the coolant system pressure off somewhere - will have to follow the smaller pipe to find out where (too dark / cold now... :? ). One other thing - can't find any info on actually bleeding coolant system once refilled, anyone???? Chris.

James - that's what I thought (flow problem). Jim - the actual reported water temp seems fine - just slightly lower than the middle of the gauge, but thanks for the reply anyway. On the right (supply I think) hand hose going from the engine bay to the heater matrix, there is a metal device, just before it goes through the actual bulkhead, with a smaller rubber hose coming fromit. I can't find this on etka, does anyone know what this is? I don't think this is blocked, as the hose is hot at either side of it... Chris.

Hi - 1991 G60 has no blower heat whatsoever (especially in this weather..). Blower itself is fine. Of two pipes that go from engine bay through bulkhead, as you look at the bulkhead from the front of the car (e.g. from the engine bay), right hand pipe is steamy hot - left hand pipe (i.e. drivers side) is not even lukewarm. I'm deducing from this that the matrix is blocked and looking for some confirmation?? My reason for asking is that I have never known a matrix block on any car (split, yes, burst, yes) and I don't know what would actually block it. The cooling fluid is clean and has been changed regularly as far as I can see. Is there anything else that may block before I rip the dash out (i.e. pipework etc)?? The return hose appears to go into a metal hose and down to the bottom of the block - would it be worth taking this metal pipe off to see if this is blocked first? Any advice gratefully received, Chris.

Hey - my kind of engineering :lol: Was after solid front mount but may wait a little while yet... Chris.

No info? I can't believe nobody has done this - maybe it's just me! Chris.

Sorry - having re-read my original post, I didn't word it very well and i realise that it could have been taken either way... I have an 08/91 G60 (pre facelift - probably one of the last one's..) and like g60greeny I would like to fit the later style dial type heater controls. I have read all of the posts about the use of passat controls to replace Corrado late style controls etc, my question is if I get hold of a set of dial type controls (Corrado / Passat / Whatever), are there any changes at the airbox end or will the cables swap over? Would it be easier to get some heater controls with cables attached and attach them to my existing airbox? Thanks for the replies, Chris.

Hi - I have searched but cannot find a decent answer - is it possible to swap later dial style heater controls for the early slide type? I am guessing not easily - would swapping the whole airbox be nescessary? Thanks in advance, Chris.