catch_twotwo

Yeah pop over and we'll go through them... although my hydrolic lift is in Austria (which is a little further ;) ) Anyway, you'd be better finding somebody local that knows more than me (not hard to do) Start small and work up. Blue and Black temp sender are things I'd even let my girlfriend do......

:lol: Hope they get pulled over and the cars checked ;)

Surely the cig adapter that has a 5v USB on it should already have the require circuit to reduce the voltage..... :?:

If you suspect it then remove the fuse and see ?

I was the same last year (not much better now to be honest) but it gets easier as you go along..... Clock change is a peice of cake. 6 screw and a couple of cables. Still, if you're headed to a garage with a list from here, then it's gonna cost. Most of the parts are better replaced than tested (old parts, not too expensive) I had all the sensors associated with water temp replaced, and a new heater matrix for only about €200. Fitting was a little more though ;) - Blue temp sender (new clips and O ring) - Black temp sender (new clips and O ring) - Radiator thermostat and holder (on water pump) - Fan temp sensor (on radiator) Still, it could be none of these.... but at least you'd know in the future that these aren't the problem.

I'd get some new clocks in.... just to check if everything is going wrong on them. Have you checked the fan thermostat switch on the radiator as this is what will get the fans going when the temp rises. The fan after the car is off runs from a different circuit I seem to remember.

When it's cold or hot ? I'll do some checks tomorrow evening when I can get to the car.

So done some searches and read some things, but wanted to ask a couple of questions to those eduicted folks who've done things with the Knock Sensor before. I've setup the knock sensor to 15nm but still after a long run it pinks when the engine is shutoff. One of the problems might be that the torque wrench I have is huge and needs 2 adapters to get the right fitment on. So anybody know what size bolt is on the knock sensor and if I can get one to do on a large torque wrench (1/2 if that helps) Also in a few posts I've seen people saying to check the timing. I've not got a timing light or any fancy tools, so is there anything I can do to set this without professional help ? Maybe this is somehow connected to my erratic idle problem... I've set the idle by removing the blue temp sender and reving over 3k 3 times. Then set the idel screw and repeated. Set the idle to just under 1k and reconnected the blue temp sender. So while driving sometimes it idles at 750, and sometimes at about 1400. When I come back and reset the idle again to just under 1k, it happens all over again. Any thoughts ????? Thanks for the help in answering another stupid question....

215/40 would probably be the way to go. I've got these onmy 9Jx16 Borbet A and the speedo is spot on (5 kmph out at 120 kmph)

Are you sure that the temp senders are working ? Cheap enough and only 1 minute each to replace.

G60SC_Stoney, can you do me a favour and measure from your SC to the hose and maybe tell me the length of your RSR outlet as well.

Which ones... this was the only peice that looked like it would fit. The other one is too short isn't it ?

Thanks for the pics guys... my pics are a little bad as the car is in a dark underground garage but I hope you can see what's up with mine in comparison. I've put a red line in where each of the tubes ends without the extra part that was retrofitted. As you can see it's a couple of inches.

I'll post up a pic when I get a chance, but we're not talking a couple of centimeters gap that could be sorted by starting from the other end. It's probably more of a fitting issue than an issue with the kit though, as maybe the run is incorrect of the mechanic has mistaken 2 tubes and fitted them the wrong way about. So any pictures just so I can compare my install with something else ???

I got these a while back from Darren down at G-Werks and although they're now fitted the length of the tube from the charger to the standard IC comes up short. The first mechanic said they didn't fit, but then again the man was an ass (worked for VW so that was only to be expected). However the second made them fit although not without having to add a section of hose to the kit to make things fit. This I suspect is giving me a boost leak as there's just too many links in the tubing for my liking. I'll get a pic of this up tomorrow I hope once I can get into the underground garage and take some snaps. I'm not sure if the shortness is because I have a RSR outlet, or if things just aren't fitted right, but I have all winter to toy with things (I have a nice list) so thought I'd get started with this. So... does anyone have a picture (or 10) of this kit fitted (pref. with an RSR outlet as well, but not required) Here's a link to the BBM kit for those not in the know.... http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/Inte ... p_Kit.html Also does anyone know the width og the following .: - Hose input into the standard IC - Size K&N filter required for the ISV if I remove the boost return and don't re-route it Thanks....

If you bid you buy... that's the way eBay works. Sounds like you're going to have problems with them though. Any idea on the offset and width ?

Just tell him you'll collect in person and pay cash if the kit is good... If you've got his name and address you can get his phone number online most of the time.

Mine just went to bed tonight..... I'm already itchy. Still it's not midnight yet so still time for a quick thrash ;)

Looking good..... Pity about the clam though :lol:

I thought you'd bought these already on the bay... if so then you're already the proud owner of a set of 18's Sandy: What ET and width are yours ? as this is what the problem will be.

*disclaimer* Please note your charger will require a rebuild each time you refill your fuel tank. More often if possible. :lol:

It's the width and offset (ET) that make arch rolling / extending a must. The tyre gets smaller as the alloy gets bigger to keep the same (or close as possible) rolling radius.

It's all down to personal taste.....

Weights are different across the range so I doubt you'll get an exact swap. If they do a different set of coilovers with a different reference number then it's for a reason. You might be able to get the springs changed, but for the cost and hassle you might as well go for a decent kit.

Always make sure the brakes and suspension are up to sctratch before doing the power.... I'd start with replacing things that are old and liekly to fail (temp senders, old belts, etc...) then looks at the brakes / suspension. Better to have a solida base for future work.