cormjah

Finally got round to fitting today after having your kit sitting on the passenger side shelf or god knows how long :cuckoo: ! I wish I'd done it sooner, quality stuff Dave, super tight fit - YAY!

the problem, as you say, is down to something fouling in the lock mech. I've just done the passat door handle conversion. The slightest resistance (misalignment) and the lock *backs off*. I guess it's some kind of safety feature. Took me a fair bit of fiddling but it all works now. A good test is to take the handle off and try the locks. you can then test to see if its locked proprery by pressing the tab the handle striker hits through the hole the handle usually sits in. if it locks then you know there's a problem with the handle mech fouling the lock. If you're still getting grief, take the door card off and remove the door catch. tale a look behind the membrane on the door at the c/l mech. id it has a good strong pull then you probably bave a problem with the door catch. If not it's gonna be a case of working your way back along the pump system to dig out the fault - I don't even want to think about going there!

Christ on a crutch - after reading this thread my head is spinning! I want to sort my shite wipers out. So, if I've got this right, I need Two tt drivers wiper arms (any specific year?) and are the blades one size? I just bought a new mfa stalk from les bray, would I be better off getting him to sort it out? :help:

1.8 mate not sure when the filter was replaced, it does stutter when it's been parked on an angle, would that cause dirt to settle in the wrong place?

Here we go! The valver was stuttering badly on starting then the revs would die. after a sketchy run home, revs dying at junctions etc, I got back to see the spoiler was still up although i'd been around 30mph for some time. It did the lumpy staring thing the next morning but after revving for a bit then re-starting, it sat at 1000rpm steady as normal? So is it a fuse thing? I saw something about the Lamda probe being on the same circuit which might explain the spoiler? Any suggestions?

get down to hellfrauds, they usually have the tools to extract the unit. either that or a slide couple of big kitchen knives between the trim and the cage that holds the head unit i place. it has about four tabs that are bent down on the bottom and up on the top to anchor the cage in place. it's a bit fiddly but it works! good luck boss.

Hi all. Yonks ago I had some work done on the rado and when it came back - BIngo, the intermittent didn't work! I tried a replacement relay with no joy. I've just ordered a programmable relay from ebay but i was wondering if there might be a fault with the switch on the MFA stalk. Has anybody had a similar experience? Any advice? Cheers

Come on you lot, it ain't *that* hard! I had to get it out when i replaced my heater matrix - now that's a c*nt of a job! I guess the ridge on the bottom is to make it harder for thieves to whip the glove box if you've locked owt in there. I just used a flathead to prise one side out, then the other (whilst pulling up and out). Oh, and a stubby philips head screwdriver is the sh*t when it comes to getting into all those tight corners.

Cheers all, already had a peep at the knowledgebase. Gonna be a long weekend!

Right, this is p*ssing me off! Replaced blower fan fine, soldered (using heat-sinks) thermal fuse in. Now it blows on all settings but 4!? Also, since having the head welded and skimmed, I'm guessing the heater matrix has blown out, since on the *hot* setting fills the car with steam! Anyone got a how to (with pics) for replacing the matrix? Or any pointers for the resistor pack?

hey there cheesewire. It's been a while i know but I've worked out its the injector lines (lol)! i saw some braided lines on some yank dohc setup, as opposed to the solid currved line that run from the injector to the head. any reccomendations for replacing? I think there's life in the lines but I don't fancy gambling and spraying my engine bay with fuel!!

I've found a tidy set of wings and a bonnet, thing is they're ion a g60. ive got an h reg valver. i believe the panels are the same, just wanted to check with those that know before i buy em. anyone fancy pitching up with pearls of wisdom? cheers

does anyone have any advice on where to get hold of the tape/pads that holds the rear surround on? mine's bowing and started to come away o one side (near the lock). It's one of those things that isn't massively noticable but IS REALLY STARTING :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: TO F**K ME OFF!!

not too sure i get the gag cheesewire?! just stuffed the advisory in the glove box and went for a rip. have to dig it out and give it a proper read. there's no reak of petrol so I'm not too arsed for the moment!

cheers for the info david

Anyone got any advice about this? allegedly next MOT these are gonna fail. can they be replaced/refurbished cheaply? aparrently one of em is seized corroded beyond redemption!

not too sure which ones cheesewire willloook into it. cheers for th'advice

does anybody have any advice on replacing the fuel lines on a 91 valver? Just got her through the mot but had an advisory on the lines. is it a pig of a job/expensive? is there a how to floating around somwhere? any advice would be welcome. cheers

cheers all for getting back. it apins me but i guess i'm gonna stick with your advice khurrado and hold out for a valver wing - things never happen quickly when a rado's concerned!

that's the thing stopping me from buying a new wing, not sure about the differences. anyone got a definitive answer? i've seen a few g60s about but i don't want to end up with a lopsided front end!

Hi all. I saw a thing on the forum a while back about rolling your own arches. some wanker flattened out the back half of my front passenger arch ( i wont talk about the ding in the rear - grrr). would i be able to remove the liner and roll it back out? i've tried getting hold of a 91 wing, but they all seem to be vrs or g60s. my valver is starting to look tatty, anyone know someone in the bristol area who could help a rado freak on a tiiiight budget? cheers

Alright there, has anyone got a switch they could sell to me? It's all a bit nuts on ebay. I can pay by paypal if that helps. Cheers - Cormac

CURSES! my valver has come a cropper on the super narrow streets of bristol. got a bad dent with crease on the n/s rear arch just where it meets the back bumper trim. kinda goes with the slightly flattened n/s front now, which was supplied by some white van drive-off w***er! anyone know of a good touch up/dent removal bod in the bristol area? budget is better but would pay a little more for a good job. any tips are most welcome - cheers

My h plate valver has just developed a nasty fault. when the cooling fan kicks in after i've stopped there's really bad vibration. the fan doesn't sound too good at all, a bit grindy. at worst the whole car was throbbing after the ignition was turned off, v worring! do i need to replace the whole fan or is it a case of replacing bearings? it's coming up to 140k. any suggestions? Cheers

anyone got any tips on sorting this out? the rear wiper works, would like to sort the wash out. my mate had a similar prob on his camper with a uni directional valve, where do i find all the relevant gubbins in me rado? Also is it easy to sort out intermittent on the main wipers? It went to the shop with bust ignition switch and came back with only 2 speeds on the main wipers - grrrrrrrrr!