CrazyDave

No surprises really, the fuel rail is from SP. The bit of manifold you can just see it a standard VR lower section cut down and machined flat. The plenum chamber will be made up of laser cut ally welded together with some profiling around the port runners to give smooth flow and sized to give about 0.8 of the engine capacity for the chamber. TB on right hand of the engine to pick up the air from the charge cooler. 8) Glad to hear it's quiet. The Jetex I had fitted before starting all this work was about the limit of the noise I like, just fussy I guess. Just noticed my turbo manifold is going rusty, be grass growing on the car next it's been in the same place for so long :lol:

Fine, just updated with this weekends efforts, getting close now. Just needs two little 'L' brackets from the studs I guess. Another job for the list! I got myself one of those 'O' clip crimp kits before I started this project. The plan being to get rid of all those spring clips.

Finally got the exhaust and wastegate finished today, just needs TIGing together. Started on the inlet pipework. Tacked up the sections for the turbo outlet around the engine bay and down by the gearbox. The charge cooler will sit down near the gearbox running towards the front of the car and picking up on the inlet manifold (still TBD). May move the battery into the boot, not sure yet, depends on space. Finished the sump and drain pipe off, all fitted back on now. I need a few more bits of pipe to finish the inlet side, and yes I'm keeping the standard airbox, should nice and quiet. I may drill the bottom out and fit a pipe into the wheel arch via the carbon canister hole? Removed all the turbo and manifold etc and lagged all the rear of the engine bay, brake pipes, steering rack, column gaitor etc (didn't get a pics of this though). The 'bay' with quite a few bits chucked back in to look at clearance. Air inlet needs a few bits of pipe to finish. Downpipe with external wastegate pipe fitted. The rest of the 'zorst' with v band section for cat. Boost pipework and Tial BOV, the only noisy bit! Stainless heat sheild for turbine side of turbo. James Yep, making my own manifold seemed like a good idea at the time, but now I just want it finished! Especially after reading about another VRT running 8) .

Close call then James. Remind me to double check all my fuel hoses etc before I get mine running for the first time. Don't fancy a near miss, and definately don't fancy a fire! How did you fit the heat shield to the manifold? I had a look today but no obvious way of doing it? Power sounds awesome, I can't wait!

You shouldn't need a pressurised system unless the cooler core is seeing air temperature that'll cause the water to boil (100deg C or more). That said, if it gets close you could get local boiling on the surface of the water side of the cooler and that would be very bad. I'm going for a big front rad and some good size pipework with a header tank as big as will fit within the wheelbase. That most likely means in the boot. Cos the front is full and hot!

I had this problem with my VR. See here. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48571&highlight=tensioner Hope this helps :)

OK, I've been looking at lots of production turbo engines on test beds this week. The turbo oil drains on quite a few of them are into the sump, and a few (a real beauty of a V6 twin turbo 480hp) are really low in the pan, with no oil smoke problems. So I'm pretty happy with the location of mine now. Time to crack on with the inlet pipework. Finish the exhaust. Get everything TIGed together and build it all up. Still got to order a charge cooler and bits. Then I've got to design and build an inlet manifold. Lots of ideas, just need to crack on with it all!

Good and bad then James, I've been out working for a few days. So missed all your fun and games. Didn't quite realise how big a job the matrix was. Good job though 2hrs!

I mean use the washer bottle, but with inlet and outlet pipes fitted for the charge cooler and the modified impeller pump that you use. Keep the bottle topped up and use higher than normal screen wash concentration to stop it all freezing. Should be enough volume in the tank including the pipework and extra rad? Just sized up for 2.25" pipework and have most of the bits ready to go on the car. So think I'll have to stick with the 4x10.

Great for the recent weather though :lol:

I've been looking at the 4"x10" for my VR6T. Still got to measure up to see if it'll all fit in! Also thinking about using the washer bottle as a combined water tank? Any thoughts?

The ISV would help the cold running, a little extra idle air to prop up the extra rich mixture. I'm going to try setting warm idle speed with the throttle stop and then use the ISV to increase the idle air if needed. Should help with cold running. This is just a stop gap until I get my DBW (drive by wire) sorted. Cold running is always going to be fun as most rolling road places don't have a climatic chamber to setup the cold running. So it's a lot of patience, trial and error. The MS forums and mega manual are a big help with this stuff as they have a great guide to cold running theory. Glad the DTA is working out Kev, it's a cool piece of kit that's for sure. 8)

As Gazza points out, not only do you have to sort out some wiring, MS has numerous software versions. The MS_Extra hi res code is pretty the one to go for, gives much better running and as long as you have high-impedance injectors (most VW ones are) this will be fine. I used the glens driver board for my ISV, it did need a further mod but worked out nicely for fitting. You can just fit the tip122 transistor to the V3 board and that will do the same thing. Trouble is when I read all this back it still sounds confusing? Maybe some drawings will help. :)

And I was just about to suggest that you sell me your 7psi spring! Double DOH!

But then I'd need a really long drill bit and I ain't got one of those either :lol: Cheers Blue95 I'll have a look. On the cat front, I had a site visit to a leading design and manufacturer of cats yesterday. Apparently you only need 3" of cat length to pass an MOT. This will remove enough CO and HC to meet it easy. So it's bandsaw and welder time! The length is for getting the NOX levels down which isn't an MOT requirement. 8)

Been ask several questions by forum members lately, so I thought I'd change the title of this thread and update it a little. MegaSquirt will work fine on pretty much any car. It's design takes into account a large array of sensors and types by changing a few links and components on the main circuit board. The manuals are very extensive and can be confusing because they have so many variations of configuration. So to try and narrow it down a bit for anybody thinking about doing this, here goes! Although this example is based around my experience of converting a VR6 with coilpack. It will also work with the following. VR6 with Dizzy Quite a bit of confusion on Vortex etc about fitting MS to these. The dizzy only has one trigger on it's wheel. So you get talk of making a new six slot trigger etc etc. The dizzy signal is used as a cam sensor, just like the separate one on the later VR's. MS can be fitted straight onto a dizzy car. The crank sensor can be connected directly to the MS and the dizzy will distribute the spark as normal. Connect up the fuel injectors in firing order. Connect the outputs for the fuel pump and motronic relay. Throttle position, coolant, inlet air all connect directly. 16V The standard dizzy can be used. The trigger signal can be connected to MS without a problem. Some work will be needed on the fuel side. Pretty much all Corrado's are based on K or LE jetronic (correct me if I'm wrong), so they have a metering head and lots of mechanical pressure regulating stuff. For MS you'll need to sort out new fuel injectors (digifant would be ideal or 20vt etc), a fuel rail with pressure relief valve and throttle position sensor. Audi quattro's are a good source for the throttle body with potentiometer, or some auto models of Passat. ISV will connect with a driver board. G60 These are pretty straight forward as they have digifant already. Engine sensors etc etc all connect directly. Still need a potentiometer throttle body (eg Passat etc as above for 16v - Cheers GazzaG60! for spotting my mistake.). Time permiting I'll try and get a few sketches together for different configurations. Thats it for now. 8)

Cheers guys :) Seen some nice short 'sport type' cats today. Standard fit on quite a lot of modern Audi V engines, going to try and get some part numbers. But some of them might not be available yet? Development engine stuff. The Corrado cat is just far to long, no room to get it in with the downpipe orientation. Even VW struggled looking at the angle of the lower three stud joint. The oil drain isn't ideal cos it may get some oil washing around when accelerating. I can't get my normal drill in behind the engine with it in place and I don't have any air tools (those nice short air drills). Can maybe borrow a right angle drill which would do the job, something for the future? I was thinking of re-positioning some of the probe bungs. I noticed the VW one is at an angle of about 45 deg to give better cable clearance. Seems like a plan for a least one of them.

Progress this weekend: Re-Fitted front cross member and slam panel. Fitted turbo manifold (after machining work) & turbo. Tacked up downpipe ready to get tig welded. Fitted bung into sump for oil drain from turbo. Pleased with progress so far 8) Oh it was cold this morning! Front panels refitted. Nice shiney panels. Powder coat came up really great! First downpipe bits in place. I wanted to get the bellows as close as poss to the turbo to isolate the engine movement. It's not that clear in the pic but the bellows stops short of the gap for the steering rack and then sweeps through with a 45deg bend. The proposed location of the drain oil line. Not as nice as the block location but above the max level of the sump and well clear of the vertical movement of the driveshaft. Have to see how this goes. Ready to TIG together. Oxygen probes x 2 and Bosch CAN based EGT sensor. Cat has been removed but space to fit one with band clamps. Planning on getting rid of the idle stab valve and using this drive by wire TB instead, need to come up with an interface board to drive it.

Cheers Kev, glad to hear the Helix is working out. Pedal does feel really nice on mine, but can't drive it yet for obvious reasons. I think the PWR coolers are being used by Storm Developments. The bigger 6" - 8" units are much better for minimal pressure loss. You are correct, the losses across them are higher, due to them being length ways rather than sideways. Sideways would need more water flow across it to maintain the cooling for the air velocity and the narrow path, hence big pump and tank. Chargecoolers are the way forward for me. Compact, efficient and minimal extra weight and pipework volume. Just finding something suitable for the application is proving to be fun :)

That looks like the right kind of kit, be nice if the hose entries didn't enter at 90deg to the core but for £160, not bad. These things are a bit steep really, it's a core with some end caps welded on thats been pressure tested. How hard can it be? Ben Mmmmm Turbo Power!

Looking at these http://www.chargecooler.co.uk, not perhaps as nice as the Schimmel stuff but costs about nearly half as much. Go for a big one though to min the pressure drop and max cooling effect.

Strange that? Still as long as nothings touching. Guess you could always give it a bit most boost to compensate! :D MS bits from the Glens Garage in the states http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/index.php you can get bits from the UK, but the guy doesn't have a website, just email. I'm running a coilpack but dizzy would easier as it needs less mods to the standard V3 board. I could send you a shopping list if you like. All my stuff is posted on here if you havent seen it already http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49561&highlight=megasquirt. Give me a shout if you need any help, I might even build one for you if you twist my arm enough? Real good progress this w-end. Gearbox was a git to get back in, oh for a workshop and a ramp :( but it's done now!

Loads of progress (well for me anyway) this weekend. Head all back on with steel gasket and spacer. New timing chains and tensioners all fitted. New Helix motorsport clutch fitted and gearbox back on. Front slam panel, oil cooler bracket and cross member prepared for powder coating (going tomorrow). Aux belt tensioner fitted new bearing, £6.50 compared to £85 from the dealer. Vibratechnics rear engine and gearbox mounts fitted. Head fitted ready to be torqued down with new ARP head bolts. Side view of head ready about to go back on. I decided to fit the head first and then do the timing chains. I suppose you could do it the other way round but didn't want to risk getting the cam timing wrong. Vibratechnics rear engine and gearbox mounts. Essential for keeping everything in place when producing 350 horses! Helix uprated clutch (pressure and friction plate). Pedal feels pretty much like standard but should be good for the extra power. Next up: Fit the turbo manifold and turbo. Sort oil drain from turbo to block. Fabricate the downpipe. Fabricate a short inlet manifold... Fit oil cooler. Fit charge cooler and sort plumbing. Sort inlet pipework and other assorted finishing off. Never ending list that keeps getting longer.... 8)

Bloody hell James, getting a move on!! Nice job too! Like the pipe around the cables idea. Going to make a start on my downpipe next week. Mines all back together now head, chains, clutch, gearbox etc. Oh and my cams still line up with the spacer in???

Try working on an Audi S3 or any transverse 1.8T engined dub and you'll welcome the acres of space a VR T has by comparison! Good work Mr Brown....so many turbos.....:lol: Good point, and I'll be getting the full cam belt experience on my 1.8t very soon! A mate of mine did his 1.8t Octavia in a day. Which compared to an 8 or 16v is crazy.