CrazyDave

Nothing done on the C today, but I did sort my dads MkIII GTI 2.0 8v. Cam sensor out of speck in VAG COM is caused by the intermediate shaft timing being out on late 2.0l 8v engines. The distributor sensor is used as a trigger for cam position (the four slot rotor only has one tab). It also has a crank sensor on the flywheel. Now the problem started when the main dealer in Shrewsbury fitted a new cam belt and got the cam timing and the intermediate shaft 1 tooth out :shock: This is quite easy to do if you use the flywheel mark for the crank position. Don't use the flywheel TDC mark use the little arrow and the notch in the crank pulley and the arrow and the OT mark on the cam pulley and the rotor arm in the middle of the notch in the distributor housing point to no.1 cylinder plug lead. Problem solved, goes like a rocket and no cam sensor fault code. Moral of this story, even main dealers can get it wrong, never assume anything! :roll:

Nice one Ben, good to hear you're carrying on with the project. After seeing the Storm guys at the forum RR day the Rotrex charger is a nice piece of kit and is a great way to go. Keep going that last bit, it'll be worth it! I for one can't wait to have a look around your motor at a meet sometime this year.

Thought about doing a parts list.... then decided against it cos it would have a bottom line! I'll get finished and see then. Not done much today. Started cleaning all the bits and removed a few valves from the head to have a look, no nasties found yet. Spent most of the afternoon trying to find out whats wrong with my dads 1998 Mk3 Golf GTI 2.0 8v. Keeps throwing a cam position sensor fault? My Jetex bits should be here next week, so I can make a start when the head is back on and all the other little jobs are done. As usual it's not always what you know but who. I had considered breaking out the old welding skills and getting a TIG set. But having spoken to a guy at work, he made a quick phone call and set me up with a guy who does TIG all day and makes custom exhaust manifolds for touring cars and rally cars, and his workshop is about 2 miles away! :lol: So I plan on cutting and tacking the sections together with my MIG in situe and then sticking them in the boot of the 'RED SHED' and taking them down the road for welding. Payment...... a case of Strongbow! Sounds like a nice straight forward way of doing things. Not perfect, but as you say it works. Gives you a chance to do some local running in and sorting minor niggles. :shock: Nick, defo get it looked at. I was amazed how bad mine was. But it's probably lack of use and short trips that does it. Sorry about the turbo stuff. I blame that haywire bloke :lol:

I like modern diesels, much much better than a few years back (remember the old Ford Escort / Mondeo turbo diesels with loads of lag and the 500rpm of power). Still one thing that drives me nuts..... the noise at idle, especially when cold. Honda seem to have this sorted. My neighbour has a visitor from time to time who drives a Civic and you'd be hard pushed to tell it was diesel. The BMW's i've tried are fantastic, 6cyl 4cyl. Prefer the 6cyl cos it actually sounds good. Had a collegue who had a bill for a set of injectors on a 6cyl......£1200! I had an Audi 2.0l TDI 140 with DSG box for about 2 weeks at work. It was great fun. Quick and lazy on the motorway, lively and fun down the lanes. 45MPG all the time, 60mpg if carefull. If you have to do lots of miles diesel all the way. But I'm a petrol head at heart.... bring on the Bio-ethanol!

Sorry, I'm being clever again! I've got the old N75A from the wifes GTI wired up to the squirt. And in one of those, the VR6 was meant to have a turbo moments (like the exhaust heat sheild cutout thing), the standard loom has a connector for it. That connector on the breather pipe with the dummy valve is now wire for the N75 valve! Oh boy, what a lot of catching up to do! Not likely this century me thinks LOL! What ECU mapping are you using? Got a subsription from the wife for Chrimbo. I knew she was the one for me when I got a Mk1 Golf front wing and a pair of axle stands for my birthday one year! That mag is cool! Sorry it's one of those dreams I have where my car has 400hp but still does 45mpg! No the main reason is for idle with big injectors. The pulse width gets so short that the fueling becomes inconsistent. But in sequential you'll only have 1 injection event for each cylinder, then all on for max hp. Oh, and good luck at Stealth on Monday! I'll see if I can get a over that way during the day?

Buying turbo bits is a great way to spend money. And they are so pretty! Mapping might be a bit out in the 2-3.5k area. Depends when your turbo spools. The VF chargers are very linear and don't give much boost low down but the turbo will. Might be worth considering a rising rate regulator. Ask Kev, cos he's running something similar. I've been looking at Emerald ECU's lately, pretty good and do sequential injection. DTA is the dog's and a good price if you speak to the right people. LSD and brake are high on my list before more power. No point having it if you can't use it and stop.

Thanks for the link James, still can't get the hang of searching sometimes. Going for some serious power then 8) . I'm sticking with 8 psi for a bit just to get things settled in. Should be good for 1bar up to max engine speed though, plenty for FWD.

ATP have been really good, Schimmel too. Top service+++++ Kev's original jacket was from http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/, but not sure about the new one? I have polished the GTI since these pics, and even the rusty bits shine now! I'm off to read your members gallery now, goin turbo??? EDIT: No gallery.... That's one big turbo in your avatar. GT40?

Cheers James, I'll try and find one.

CorradoVR6-n.o.s, £45 + VAT, who was that from? I've just removed the standard fan tray from my VR. It is bl**dy heavy!

A few more pics of todays efforts! Enjoy. Ain't she a beauty????? :shock: My daily runner for a few months, looks like a nail, drives like a Volkswagen! Looking good so far. Nice and clean inside rocker cover. Not bad in here either. Quite dark coloured coke on the pistion crowns, but no rimming in the bores. Looks like the anti-freeze has been a bit weak with a previous owner? Some surface rusting due to not enough inhibitor. For all those people who ask when to do VR6 timing chains.... er about 70k miles mate! This is the top guide and it's knackered!! No noise from the chains or anything. OK so it's not in bits, but it's not far off. New top timing chain, tension strip and guide ordered. The tensioner bolt was change about 5k ago. I'll sort the lower chain when I do the clutch (which could be very soon when the turbo goes on! :lol: ). Check out the forum knowledge base for all the info if yours needs doing. This had me really worried. No.1 piston has a scuff mark on the crown (top right not very clear in the photo). But after a bit of thinking I realised it must have been the screwdriver I shoved into no.1 plug hole to find TDC! :lol: When I removed the poly belt from the alternator, I found that the tensioner was really noisey. When the car last ran I suspected the alternator, but thats fine. New bearing for tensioner (£6.70 according to the forum knowledge base). VW want £70!!! The water pump is a bit stiff, feels like the bearings are going, so a new one has been ordered. That's about it for now, waiting for some bits before assembly starts. PS Kev, I just got a catalogue from Speedflow, wow they are good. The information in that booklet is spot on. Everything you ever wanted to know about pipe fittings, hoses etc. Just goes to show, when your looseing faith in UK suppliers, up pops a really good one! Full marks Speedflow! Think I might have to invest in one of those turbo jackets. Who is the new one made by?

The workshop was a bit of a joke :lol: Its just my computer desk with a soldering iron on it!! I love those American DIY programs when the talk about the 'Shop'. Cos everybody has a lathe, milling machine, TIG, MIG, bandsaw and 3000sqft to play in! They do like to do things in a "big" style though don't they! I don't even havea garage or shed! Do all my "not too messy" work in the living room :lol: Oh noooooooo, no shed! Couldn't manage without a shed, even if it is just a little one. :(

The workshop was a bit of a joke :lol: Its just my computer desk with a soldering iron on it!! I love those American DIY programs when the talk about the 'Shop'. Cos everybody has a lathe, milling machine, TIG, MIG, bandsaw and 3000sqft to play in!

We seem to be blameing the roads in this country for all our problems with accidents etc etc. New speed limits here, there and everywhere. But it's not the roads, or the fast cars, it's the bloody people driving them! I present exibit A! 'Stands down off small wooden box and wanders off'

this is an Autosim. Part of the company I work for builds them. Very handy bit of kit! It's kinda like a Stim board on steriods! Nice bit of kit! I did think about doing something in Matlab or Labview but the reward for the effort is minimal, get it on the car and go play. But be careful and find somebody to either drive the car or drive MegaTune, cos trying to do both is pretty tricky, and yes... I've tried (bloody stupid I know!) I'd love to show a picture of my workshop but it's a real tip with bits of Corrado and turbo stuff everywhere..... but hey I guess that's just the sort of stuff you guys and gals are into! :lol: Excellent work by the way, keep going!

Cheers :D Although the pics from below took a few attempts to get right. Taking good underbonnet pics is really difficult, it's always dark and dingey and not enough depth of field to get everything in focus. But if it helps anybody else thinking about this kind of thing then it's worth the effort!

I offered all the pipes up during my trial fit and yes strangely enough my feed line is 5ft long should run nicely round the cold side with some P clips in a few places. Did you run the coolant feed from the throttle body pipes? Close call with the fire then.... If nothing else get a small in car extinguisher. I always used to carry one in mine and the wifes MK1. Strange things to do perhaps but if you've got it and don't have to use it thats fine by me. Must get one sorted for the C after reading your experiences.

Does the 20v manifold fit the 16v then? And no, you can't have the one off my wifes Golf 20VT :lol: Quite a bit on EDIS interface on Vortex if I remember correctly. Whats Autosim?

Must be built by now????? If you need anything give me a shout, or maybe that'll be the other way round. My mate is about due to start his 16v Golf Turbo! I guess you'll have all the same problems: No throttle position sensor. Distirbutor signal interface. Injector rail and injectors. And that's before you get to the turbo! Should be good though, the 16v turbos I've seen so far are very good. If you want to borrow a stim board give me a shout!

Done a bit more on the C today. The downpipe is off after much cutting and grinding, but I think the cat is OK. I may take the cat off and fit a band clamp straight pipe, then band clamp the cat so I can put it back in if needed for the MOT. I also offered up the turbo and manifold to get a feel for the downpipe. The turbine exit pipe is really tight (as Kev said!), but I've had a measure and offered bits of pipe up and it should go in. It actually looks like the bolt flange is a lower profile than the band clamp, even after allowance is made for the studs and nuts etc which seems a little strange to me? Next job is head off, ARP bolts and compression plate etc, and see what the bottom end looks like..... I hope it's ok cos funds are tight at the minute and could do without having to build a new one (however tempting a 3L bottom end sounds! and it does!). Looks like plenty of room? But it soon fills up! Small contact with standard heat sheild and compressor inlet, should be easy to fix. Turbo in position, the weld on flange is all in place. View from under the car. Different angle under the car. Looks like plenty of room from underneath? V-band clamp in place for size comparision. Looks like the horizontal alignment should be the same for bolt flange?

If you have remove the fuse box cover and the lower shelf (drivers side), then get you head right under with a torch you'll see a little black box with a small black cable going into it via a connector (the cable comes from the ignition key pickup coil). Pull the connector and give it a spray with some electrical contact cleaner, then work it on and off a few times and give it a go. Should start fine and be OK for about 18 months. The alternative is to go to the dealer and spend £200 on a new ignition pickup coil and immob box to get a gold plated connector (the standard ones a nickel-tin plate which corrodes enough to cause a problem). The fuse sounds like something different but it looks like somebody else has had that happen.

Yeh, made a trip up to Midland VW just before taking the C off the road. Jodie sorted it out, a bit of fiddling to get it fitted right but great service. They weren't happy until I was. Shame they're a bit far away for me, or I'd be using them a bit more. Thanks for putting a word in with Jodie, great deal. 2.5" SS Jetex cat back. Oval pipe has a nice standard look about it, but polished and shiny! Fits very nice and only a little bit more noise over standard, should be really quiet with the turbo on. I'll put you on the list for the turbo experience! Along with DaveStorm and Mr Sands.

How old is your VR? If it's a late model with an immobiliser ECU (CP code) then it could be the same fault as DaveStorm and I had. Engine starts fine runs for one second then stops. If you scan with VAG-COM you'll get an 'Engine start without immobiliser'fault code. But you must have VAG-COM on the car when it does it because the fault gets cleared when you turn the ignition off. Easy to fix though if it is? Sunroof may be something else.

ATP have been great. All my orders have arrived within 4-5 days. I did them online through the website, as long as you know what you need sizes etc it's perfect. Quality is first rate. I compared some prices with UK suppliers and ATP seem very good (sorry UK suppliers but some items I checked had the same price in pounds sterling as in US Dollars so with an exchange rate of at least 1.92 even with import duty and postage it's much better value direct from the States).

Yeh, ATP for the silicon bits, good price too IMO.. T-Clamps are really nice stainless ones to ($4.50!). I'll give it a trial fit and see. Can see what you mean, space looks fine until you actually get the stuff in place and in soon fills up. Cheers Kev, thanks for the offer. Bound to hit fun and games at some point, early days yet. Engines only just over 70k, so I'll see when the head comes off how it looks? Quite a bit of oil residue in the breather hose though? Going for a nice mild 8psi to start with. Although reading about Kev's it sounds like a torque monster from about 2500rpm