CrazyDave

The knock sensing on the board is only single channel at the minute but it could be made double channel for the VR dual knock sensors. I've already got ideas for a customised VW orientated expansion board. The knock is really sensitive, you can see it in the logging picture (red line in the bottom trace on page 1). But I've got it disabled so it doesn't mess with the timing yet. It is adjustable via a pot on the board for activation level, so that's something else that needs setting up. Hopefully it won't be quite as twitchy when setup correctly. Seems to be plenty of knock settings in Megatune / MS, even lower the boost control target on knock sensing.. But I guess most of the stuff on the Glens board would be needed by some: Boost control 4 x outputs for things like cooling fans, tacho signal Water injection valve anti lag switch for nitrous Nitrous solenoid Dual VR sensors Launch control switch Second EGO sensor knock sensor table switch EGT And I would like to mount the whole lot in a waterproof box so it can live in the normal place.

Nice one! Are you still planning on doing your own code? A friend of mine is building a really silly 16v Golf with nitrous (on a really tight budget!). So his will be the next project. Like you say quite a few bits to source but should be good. His will be done with a custom loom without any need to swap back. I still need my O2 sensor sorting. Anybody know the ECU pins for a late model CP Motronic. The Bentley I have seems to be incorrect? The tacho signal was also wrong it's on T68/22 for my ECU. I have a wideband O2 to put on, that will do narrowband emulation, so I can still swap back. Just been a bit cold and wet for exhaust jobs. Your not kidding! I messed about for an hour or so the other day on the ISV. But I found some settings for a bosch ISV on vortex, haven't tried them yet but I'll let you know how I get on. I'll do a diagram of the how the settings affect the idle curve, that should help. The looms is a good idea if you're doing a complete rewire. The Glens Garage extra board has EGT, Knock, and separate baro sensor and the spare outputs are all out on connectors with drive transistors for boost valve, water inj, so I went for that one. Bit of a squeeze in the MS box though!

Thought some of you might be interested in how the Megasquirt installation has been going. MegaSquirt ECU is now built, bench tested and on the car (VR6). Because Megasquirt is a generic system it has loads of hardware configuration options which is a bit daunting to start with. Here is a list of the parts I used: MS V3 kit from Glens Garage with 250kPa MAP Sensor. MS2 CPU MSnExtra Daugther Board Idle Valve Driver Board Simulator Test Board The kit comes complete with all the parts you need. I choose to build my own but ready built units are available for a bit more. Some mods are required to interface the coil pack on a VR but all pretty straight forward. OK so I built it all up, pretty easy but deciding build options before starting would have been a good idea. All worked first time, apart from the extra board which had a small solder bubble on a track that was a real git to find (shorted out the power rails). First real problem, I'd figured that if I got the latest hardware and software then all would be great. Wrong. The extra software only works with the early processor. If I'd noticed the small print earlier it does say.. DOH. So ordered an MS1 processor (£10.. really breaks the bank this stuff). I'm using the MSnExtra code which has lots of nice features and uses pretty much all the memory of the MS1 processor. Anyway cutting a long story short it's all working. Boost Control (open and closed loop), Wasted Spark Ignition, ISV (closed loop), Water Inj, Charge Cooler fan control, closed loop wideband etc etc All told it's set me back about £200 in bits and a or two day to build it. The car wiring has been done with an old Motronic ECU box to provide a patch panel. The connector was stripped off the PCB and the Megasquirt cables glanded into the side. The main reason for all this was to preserve the cars original wiring and provide fallback to the Motronic during the early stages (I use this car every day for work). I can change back to Motronic in about 3 minutes! The MS is in the glove box. After fixing a few wiring mistakes the car ran, but no idle valve so I had to hold it on the throttle. I managed to fix this by changing one of the resistors on the idle valve driver board. The ISV on the VR is energised to close (ie backwards!). The dash tacho also didn't work but I hadn't got the right ECU pin so that was easily fixed. The car now starts and runs on it's own. The idle hunts a little due to my settings, but I've had a read up on all the different parameters and will have another go soon.

Yeh..... I'm sure the architects had something in mind when they designed it? Legs akimbo perhaps :roll:

I was expecting a bit more of a battle. Maybe down some back roads would be more of a challenge. The A3 2.0TDI we have at work is well scary down the twisty stuff, it rides the bumps and pot holes so well. The C is just to damn hard and low for that kind of driving. And the grip levels are unreal, the ESP is pretty trick. But the best bit is when you're hard on the brakes just before turning in and the DSG box does soft downchanges to stop the front wheels breaking traction. It's so easy to drive quick!

Good thinking! But the one way valve in the vac line before the servo would give incorrect manifold readings (only vacuum). I needed a manifold line for the Megasquirt last week and ended up coming off the test point on the one way valve, couldn't find anywhere else?

I'm thinking of doing my chains / tensioner when the head comes off for the compression lowering gasket, so I'll let you know how I get on! Oh and a clutch too! Take the spacers down a bit at a time and you'll be fine. As my engineering teacher used to say 'It's easy to take it off but you can't put it back on'. I know a man with a lathe. If that's any good to you?

I think the sensor your looking for is built into the instrument cluster (if it's the same as Mk1 and Mk2 Golfs). It's a manifold pressure sensor that's used with engine speed to give a rough MPG or Lts/100Km. The only thing I'm unsure of is that having spent quite a lot of time under the bonnet of my C lately I haven't found a vacuum line that feeds the sensor?

Blimmey mtc r32, how much lower do you want to go! Did you get your timing chain done OK? Can you get your C on a ramp and have a good look at the clearance. I would guess that with coilovers your pretty close anyway.

I had a guy appear in my rear view mirror today in a MK5 GTI very close and acting all aggressive. So when I cleared the island and onto a dual carriageway, I gave him a quick lesson (in the VR normally aspirated but absolutley standard style). Then slowed down to have a gloat at the next roundabout! 8) Well p*$$ed off! Anybody else had any nice runnins lately?

Going for a new exhaust soon anyway, so I'll get it on a ramp and make sure it's all well clear of the rear beam. Thanks for the info.

Cam sensor faults needs to be read before turning the engine off when the fault occurs. My car had this problem, and it felt down on power, erratic idle etc. It's fine with a new cam sensor.

I really like the idea of the Rotrex but when I saw the normal list price, I went right off it! The engineering is really nice and the fluid drive works very well and is quiet and efficient but it seems that once again the UK is seen as a place that you can charge much more than anywhere else and get away with it. Result... another sale lost! Anyway, how is it going Ben?

36 Years Old! Could almost be a record on here! 8) Past. 1977 Golf 1.1N Silver. Cheap insurance say no more.... 1983 Golf 1.5GLS Inari Silver (Green!) Oooooh. 1982 Golf GTI 1600 5speed Mars Red. I did 200,000 miles in this baby and it was a road rally car at the weekends! Got to be my favourite until the C. 1982 Golf GTI 1600 Silver. for the wife! 1990 Polo GT. White. 1983 Golf GTI 1800 Lhasa Green. Present... 1999 Golf GTI 1.8T Whatever that metallic dark pearl blue is called. 1995 Corrado VR6 Classic Green.

Ouch!

How? Please tell!

Try Lion Garage, I think they've got a place in Notts. http://www.liongarage.co.uk Notts not listed on the website, but give them a call because I thought they'd not long opened one in that area? Very good though, when I used to live in Hinckley I always took my cars to Lion. Friendly, good service, and reasonable price, and real enthusiasts.

Saw something similar in a very early Porsche 911 (I'm talking 1976 R reg)?

Sounds about right! My friend got Quaife to do his Golf Rallye. Custom ratios and semi-straight cut gears. I was surprised how quiet it was. Mike at Jabbasport had one in his Rallye and that was quiet too. Not like a normal trans but not over the top. The extra cog was quite long for cruising and it fitted in the end of the box with a small casing extension.

They'll run the car with an eprom emulator system, change some settings and do a few runs to see if things are any better. Most tuners have a tune that they start with which is better than standard and make some small changes to suit your engine. Then when that's all done they burn a new chip and put it all back together.

I'd go with dr_mat and swap the injectors. The ECU isn't happy with something. You will have to remove the inlet manifold to get at the injectors but they are easy to swap over, just a few clips and a plug. I would get some injector 'O' rings before you do it and an inlet manifold gasket to replace the old one. Sometimes the 'O' rings split when you remove the injectors. Cheap parts but your stuck without them.

Usually involves pulling the ECU and fitting a socket and an emulator to setup the mapping. Then when finished blowing a new eprom to fit in the new socket. Don't think the G60 (which is Digifant) had much in the way of diags, but I may be wrong. I've got an ECU here from a friend of mine, it was a Golf Rallye G60 running about 220hp and that was setup at Jabbasport. Excellent job, drove like a dream until he ripped the crank pulley key out!

Cheers Kev. I'll kick one off when I get the squirt on and fully running. Still no lambda, ISV, tacho, knock setting up (although it was working in the log file!), Motronic relay, tuning etc etc. Really pleased to hear it run though and so clean and smooth.

Cheers everyone. Some pictures just come out OK. I've a few chips on the bonnet and the odd little scrape here and there but they just don't show up from certain angles. The picture was taken at the new work offices, which is still a building site. Brickies grinding stuff and making loads of dust. And today it rained and turned into a mud bath! So it's not looking so shiney any more. :( Turbo bits are though :D

:( DOH! I felt like that when I backed into one of those low concrete pillars that they put in some parking spaces. VERY loud bang, immediate thoughts of how much bodywork I'd ripped off. Turned out I'd caught it with the front tyre sticking out of the wheel arch on full lock. So no bodywork just £500 worth front suspension work to get it straight again..... And yes I'd had a long day and just wanted to go home...