CrazyDave

Hi All, thought it was time to put a few pics on. Mainly because I remembered to take some not long after cleaning the car! Recent Midlands meet in Coventry. Megasquirt fitting. Future Stuff! :lol: :lol:

Fitted a MegaSquirt standalone ecu to my VR in preparation for the turbo. And it ran.....after a bit of head stratching :D

Nice one. It's a good choice, the last one I drove was a turbo about 4-5 years ago and it was really quick... if a little soft round the corners! Enjoy!

I agree, make the most of it while you still can. If I end up paying extra tax to have a 'gas guzzler' on my drive then I'm going to make sure it really guzzles! VR6T here I come!

Alfa gets my vote. But the last guy I know who had an Alfa had to have two new engines in 3 years. So be prepared for a few trips to the dealer.

Mmmmm shiney C... Looking nice Jim! DOH missed out on the Meguiars. I've started using them in the last few months. Really good. Just chuck em in the wash after use. Anybody tried the Quik Clay, I was amazed how much sh!t they fetch off!

Every day for travel to work. An assortment of pool cars at work. Including an A3 2.0TDI with a DSG gearbox. Would love a DSG in a Corrado (future project maybe). Golf 4 GTI for the family car. Maybe my dads 16year old Mk2 Golf when the VR6T project really starts.

G60Jet Mmmmmm....... more power! Don't tease us any longer.

I'd disconnect the battery, and connect an ammeter in series with the live lead. Then pull all the fuses one by one until you see a big drop in current. Sounds like you've got quite a big drain going on so shouldn't be to difficult to find.

I used brake cleaner on mine, work fine and was much better at idle, slow speeds etc. But I have the later thin film type not a wire. So be very carefull or you will need a new one.

What controls the 5th injector at the minute?

Hi All, not been on for a while, thought I'd give you progress so far. MegaSquirt built up and tested on the bench. Old Motronic ECU providing donor connector for patch box on car. I'm going to use all the standard sensors (even MAF will be wired as a fall back sensor). Throttle pot goes backwards apparently (ie 5v to 0v ish not the other way). Main engine control will be via MAP sensor and engine speed. MS supports all the stuff I need, closed loop boost control, wasted spark, water injection, charge cooler fan control, closed loop wideband, closed loop idle control etc etc Plan now is to get it up and running on the standard car to test how well it works (or doesn't). Injection is by bank, not ideal for emissions but should work well and won't have to wait for cam sensor sync like on sequential when starting. The Megatune software is very good (I've spoken with several guys who develope calibrations for current Bosch systems and it appears that most things are covered with MS). All told it owes me about £200 so far plus my time (a few days or so). Future... this little lot needs sorting! Nice wheels Kev, been looking at lots of wheels lately cos the brakes I want won't fit...

The board itself doesn't look like it has been hot. Usually if the solder melts due to component heating the board would be pretty well cooked and brown. Looks like it might be vibration, as those components don't have any silicon or glue to hold them. So maybe over time they shake loose and fall out. Maybe......

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1264409 Vortex guide to chains see section 48 for replacing the tensioner.

The tensioner comes as one piece, the picture shows the centre part removed and the brown seal has a lump missing from it (middle of the white scribble, sort of black dot - sorry the pic is a bit fuzzy). Best bet is to remove the one from your mates car and pull it apart. Inspect the brown seal for damage, it should have a nice even sharp edge all the way round. But before you start, make sure you have a 6" deep tub of some kind to fill with clean engine oil. Because before you put it back it needs filling with oil and all the air / bubbles etc need bleeding out. Do a search, plenty of guides around for this. But basically you have to immerse the whole part and work the plunger in and out to get it about half way out. It's a bit trial and error and it will pump up on it's own but it needs enough to keep the chain tension while start for the first time.

Some pics of my faulty tensioner. Now I don't know if these are the same on the later engines but should be similar. This is what the complete tensioner looks like. And this is the piston when removed. Note the split in the seal. The large bolt lives on the right hand side of the engine at the back, probably under a few plastic covers. Hope this helps?

Sounds very unusual... I had a timing chain rattle on my 69k mile Corrado. When I removed the tensioner and removed the plunger from the big bolt head part, I noticed a very small lump was missing from piston seal. So when the engine had been standing for a while you could really hear the chain rattle on starting and about 1200rpm when warm. Worth a quick check, just make sure you bleed it properly before you put it back in again. Lots of guides if you search on the forum. Anyway I replaced it with a new part and it's been silent ever since.

I remember having a similar problem on my old mk1 Golf road rally car. The pulse pickup in the dizzy just started falling to bits. The wife and I had just finished 140 miles of competetive driving (me at the wheel, her on the maps), just driving to the finish and it start popping and banging and running really rough. I stopped to have a look and it stopped. The guy behind in an Mk2 Escort stopped and said he thought somethng was up when he saw 3ft flames coming out of the exhaust!!! Anyway wiggled a few wires on the dizzy and it started and ran fine. Got to the finish, drove 160 miles home, no problems. Next day it started playing up again. The guy who looked after it for me knew straight away what it was. If you find the little black connector on the dizzy (about three or four pins). The sensor is on the inside of the dizzy behind this plug. You'll need a pair of circlip pliers to get in. Remove the cap rotor and the little plastic shield. You should be able to see the rotor trigger wheel (ally thing with four blades). Look for the black U shaped thing that sits under the rotor. Mine had all fallen to bits and was loose. Best bet it to find another one at a scrapper if your is the same. The rotor comes off by removing the circlip and very carefully pulling it off the shaft. Be very careful not to bend it. A small screw holds the sensor in place, remember how the wire route inside the dizzy. Put it all back together and check the timing.

OK, done a bit of research on this. It seems that if you just unplug the sensor it'll disable the closed loop control. Give it a go. :wink:

It ain't going to like having the o2 sensor tucked out the way. When it goes into closed loop (engine coolant warmed up) it'll start trying to trim the fuel based on the O2 readings. As I said before I'm no expert on valvers but I think you need to get the sensor back in the pipe or it'll never run right.

I had a similar problem a while back with a Golf GTI (digifant). When went round the houses, changed plugs, cap, leads, ignition barrell etc etc. Turned out to be a bad connection feeding the injectors. Just as the main loom splits out on the right hand side of the engine (a big sleeve if I remember). The insulation had split and the water got in and cause a high resistance that got worse and worse. Some days it would go like a rocket but damp cold days it would pop and bang and almost stop usually when warm. Do you know what injection system you car has? If you've got Digifant then a scan probably will be no good. Have you checked the switches on the throttle body? or do you have a pot?

Yeh, the PPC article was a good read. I must go and get a copy cos I read the article in WHSmith very quickly. AFAIK Megasquirt does these modes for injection: Simultaneous - All together Alternating - used for V engines split into banks of cylinders Staged - 2 sets of injectors into the same with the second set coming in when needed for extra fuel. But the hardware only seems to have 2 injector outputs, so I don't think you can physically get any more individual injector drivers without extra hardware. But if you know any different please let me know. I have some ideas on how to do it but it would need another board to sequence the crank and cam sensor signals to get the injectors syncronised so they fire at the correct time. But this would only use the pulse timing from the original 2 injector outputs Oh... just found the settings for anti-lag. Mmmm flames!

Did seem to be dragging on a bit... Do you know anybody running a system on a VR?

Oh yes, pretty much all of it will, so I'd get some antifreeze while you're at it. Not sure on price, maybe check GSF or stealer if you are in a hurry but they may have to order in.

It's right at the bottom of the rad on the right hand side, just above the bottom hose.