Kick Up The Rs

I'm jinxed, My C has a different ign barrel lock to the doors - which i can live with I have RCL so I just have a ign key with my alarm fob. Now, the problem is I have managed to lose all my door keys (i think my youngest has put 'em in the bin). Problem is, on the lost key ring it had all the code no.s.... Cann I get replacement keys from the stealer w/o the key no.s? Does the vehicle sticker in the service manual tell me? If worst case, whats involved in fitting new tumblers to the doors an ign barrel to bring them all in-line? Please help!

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I can feel my engine drop or move when I pull off. I've had a new Febi rear mount, but it didnt cure the problem. The car has also recently (5k miles ago) had a new front sub frame and mount. So should I be questioning the quality of the front mount? G60 btw

Was wondering if the springs from a Ultra GT set can be bought in pairs? Need to replace my -40mm rears with -60mm items to get my car to level out as I've had to raise the rear cup position to clear my bigger wheels 8)

Well, my sender as per my previous post is fitted right on top of the filter housing, IIRC I had to move the oil temp sender to the old pressure switch location as I had clearance issues with the VDO sender being mounted in the original pressure switch position I didn't touch the low pressure sensor on the side of the head. Does this make sense? Also, the VDO sensor low pressure switch contact sense is arse about face - contact closes on high pressure (which is opposite to the orginal contact switch). I just conveniently grounded the old wire to stop the buzzer coming on when I drove off. It's very clever that you can have a low pressure alarm on the filter switch, but not on the head switch, yet the buzzer only errr buzzes when you drive off! The plan is to put an interposing relay in to get the contact sense right eventually. Clear as mud eh?! Will post a piccie if it helps.

Tucked up very nicely behind the fuse box. You'll need to extend it tho to reach the centre console, if you are going there.

When you say twin pole do you mean 2 contacts or actual pressure + contact? I bought the VDO 0-5 Bar dual sender to drive my oil pressure gauge, so I used the high pressure point on the oil filter housing. It's very convenient for the spare blue / white wire that you need the drive the pressure guage. Very OEM 8)

Hi, Was wondering if anybody has an up-to-date (ish) ETKA who can send me a copy of the physical location of the air-con electrical components on a 2000 mk iv Golf GTI 2.0 (APK)?? I do have Etka, but it only goes up to 1998 :( before the APK was introduced. I promissed I would have a look at my better halfs a/c tonight, but I only have the wiring diagram and I can only locate one of the many pressure sensors... A big thanks in advance

Still not the best photos, but car now has RS4 reps fitted. I think they look cool. Only problem is that originally I had the rear suspension on it's lowest cup setting as I felt the car was bit high at the back compared to the front. Unfortunately, I had to lift the lower cups by one setting (10 mm) so the cup clears the tyre (slightly bigger rolling radius) and the car looks a bit high at the back. Will fit 60mm springs on the rear eventually to offset this, but first I need to sort a blowing exhaust (when cold), a new near-side track rod end & some new brake fluid. Oh yeah, and she needs a polish Talk about a labour of love...

What do you class as low oil pressure on a PG?

Have set of 4 Corrado G60 wheels & tyres in excellent condition. Wheels have been recently refurbed (no curbing but one or two wheels have a couple stone chips 3mm dia which I'll touch up) have new centre caps and are shod with excellent Goodyear NCT 2 / touring tyres with no uneven wear or feathering. They come with bolts and lockers. Didn't want to just bang em on the Forum without really knowing what they are worth. Had look on ebay, but I could only find a few steelies. Thanks

Cheers All, I reckon if I move the lower cup setting up one notch on the strut, it will clear the tyre so no probs. And as the lower cup is fixed relative to the wheel I should be OK. I don't mind doing the job myself as I fitted the kit not long ago. The problem is that the car sits very low on the front compared to the rear already (hence the lowest cup setting- something to do with the G60 kit appararently), so I'm reluctant to raise the rear height. Hope this makes sense. Will follow the FK instructions re. working out how much I can bring the rear wheel out by to see if it's sufficient to clear the cup. Love the whole car now (at last) - so I'm gonna perservere...

Not one for being impatient, but can help as I need to get her rolling again before Friday... :( The upside of it is that I don't need a handbrake at the mo. Ta.

Fitted my RS4 replica wheels courtesy of DaveM to my G this evening and they look the dogs. However a minor problem in that the inside edge of the rear tyre is fouling the lower suspension cup of my Wetec Ultra GT suspension. I reckon I know why because the lower cup is on the lowest setting as I couldn't get the correct ride height on the middle setting (it was a 40mm kit, but the front was a lot lower than the rear - hence the adjustment on the rears) Anyway, I have to options, but really unsure which way to go... 1) fit spacers (10mm) to bring the wheel away from the cup. or 2) fit -60mm springs on the rears which will allow me to revert to a mid position setting on the lower cup i.e same ride height but a higher cup position. Any help would really be appreciated. Wheels are 7 x 17, ET35 with 205/40 tyres I think. Oh and here's a piccie to show you how she looks.... 8)

So has anyone tried the BBM cam?

What about the BBM split profile cam? Hydraulic 8V Cam 260°/256°, .419"/.416" lift, Good Idle and torque. Recommended camshaft for G-60 engines, Low Boost Turbos and all other hydraulic enigines. @ $120 --£60 + shipping is it worth a go??? Anyone tried this?

I said it was a daft question! :wink:

Probably a daft question, but I'll give it a go... Is it possible to get an oval exhaust trim that fits over an oval tail pipe to make it looks bigger? The reason I ask is that my Supersprint tail pipe (120 x 80mm) looks a bit lost in my rear bumper and I would like to fill out the rear cut-out a bit more. Possible? Or do I just have an iferiority complex? Cheers

Yes it does, although I did a lot of the work myself to keep the costs down. Find a good specialist and you'll be quids in - pardon the pun

The S2 was my intro. to TVR. Quickly followed by an early Chim, Cerbera and then another later Chim... Only one reason why I now have a Corrado.....KIDS!

A V8S is cool. I loved my S2, but the V8 was the ultimate S! Or go for an early pre-cat Griff... The choice is endless!

Firstly, sorry if I've posted this in the wrong section. Anyway, my wifes Mk 4 2.0 8V golf (2000W) had a horrible low-end miss-fire which was rectified at our local VW specialist by the fitting of a new MAF meter. Anyway, the miss fire has gone but fuel economy has dropped to about 15MPG. :shock: Idle is a bit lower and the cat stinks indicating it is working overtime. The garage who fitted the new MAF now want to charge us again to have another look at the car. Is there anything I can check without VAG COM to see if I can improve things? Any help would be much appreciated. Nick

Looks like the duck is looking for a suitable nesting place inside you wheel arch! Lovely car by the way.

Try ClassicLine (Ian Fray) in Leicester. I used to insure my old Tivs through them and they were absurdley (sp.) cheap. Limited mileage & mirrored NCB though.

So can you get cream shoe polish?? I don't know as I don't have any shoes of that colour??? :wink:

IIRC I posted something on this a while back. Just go for the later (95 on) Chim and you'll be fine.. Thinks like PAS, Serpentine engine (better cooling), later diff, Borg Warner G/box all help to make things a lot more reliable. Having owned an early & late Chim, the differerences are quite significant.