Kick Up The Rs

Steve, As I only have 2 silenecers as std, would you recommend a paint pot size silencer just after the cat with a straight thru pipe to the rear box?

I've been toying with doing something like this for quite a while... Have a std exhaust - although it only has 2 silencers i.e. the centre suitcase and the rear box. The car has a cat and aurally it's really pathetic considering the output power of the engine. So my plan is to go the Supersprint route but with only a rear silencer (but retaining the Cat) as I understand a dual box supersprint wil be no louder than normal. However, will the single rear box route be too loud even if it's a Supersprint box???

May be easier to use the AutoGlym engine degreaser spray and then rinse with water from a watering can. The results are pretty damn good.

Here's mine... Oh I give up, I keep getting a DEBUG script...

Cheers for the info & advice. Still undecided though...!

I'm considering a twin cone filter set up from SWG. Question is, how noisy are they (or any cone set-up for that matter) in terms of induction roar / drone when just tootling along?? I don't mind a nice growl when I put my foot down, but the thought of a constant drone is putting me off a bit. A bit anal, but does anyone have an audio clip - or just their views to help me make my mind up... Thanks.

Just done the rear one on my G60. The worst part was actually separating the Lamda bracket from the mount. I ended drilling the old nut out due to corrosion. O/S front on an axle stand. Slackend the two big bolts underneath first. Remove air box for better access. Using trolley jack, carefully lift engine to take weight off the mount (I lifted the engine on the rear engine mount bracket). Whip out old one, slide in new one, fit bolts, remove jack & do it all up nice & tight. Feels very tight now...!

I did a similar mod to my old Audi Coupe V6 I sealed the air box an had a forced feed from a pick up out of the spoiler. One of many mods to get some more out of the old lump - the 2.6 V6 engine is almost untunable (ECU wise). Ram air effect is the official term I think

Spigot watch!

Thanks

OK, I'll re-phrase! Where can I get one or is it a DIY job with the old pipe?

Perhaps the man from G can explain...

So what does the 'silencer' kit comprise?

On the subject of intercoolers, we all know how crap the Corrado G60 intercooler is, but why is the same BHP figure quoted for the Golf & Corrado G60 bearing mind how good the Golf intercooler is? Sorry for the hijack

Hmmm... Best get me strobe out again then.

Cheers all, So will a couple of Degs advance give me any more hp or will it just shift the power band down the rev range a bit?

My local guy charges me £40 a panel

Excuse my naivety here. I understood that the timing retard due to knock sensing was quite abrupt resulting in far less less ignition advance than you started with and possibly less than you would have if you, say, started with less static advance in the first place. Does this make sense? Would love to find out how the ingition retard works and how quicly it advances once the knock dissapears.

Well, I managed to sort my G60 pinking last night. The solution - changing from BP Ultimate to Shell V (OPTIMAX) wotsit. What a difference! At the mo, the distributor advance is set at 6 deg btdc and I was wondering how much I can safely advance it and what benefits I will get from it? I plan to advance it in 1 deg steps until it starts pinking again and then knock it back slightly. Obviously, I'll need to knock it back even further when the weather warms up, unless I've fitted a bigger IC by then. Any ideas? Car is running 68 pulley & G-Werks chip Thanks

Yes agree with G-Man The Weitec Ultra kit is brill - not harsh and doesn't bottom out either. 10 out of 10 from me!

Thanks!

Is anyone running a single box supersprint on a G60? I want something slightly more 'throaty' over std, but I doubt I will get this on a twin box Supersprint system.

Getting mixed views on this one. Can anyone tell me the correct torque setting? Many thanks

Well I’ve done a bit of a search and I’ve still got a couple of queries re. Pinking. The car doesn’t suffer from pinking on load, but I can get it to pink if I blip the throttle when in neutral. I’ve checked the obvious - timing, 6 deg BTDC, blue temp sensor, correct plugs etc. and I run on decent fuel most of the time(car also has Gwerks chip & 68mm pulley). However, I recently noticed that the lambda probe wiring was damaged (before I bought the car) and I think the CO mixture may have been trimmed back to get it through the MOT. The emission results show a borderline co reading. I’m not one for jumping in feet first, but I just want to measure the CO pot just to make sure all is in order. So do I measure across terminals 1&3 to get the pot value (550 ohms?) and across terminals 2&3 to get the thermistor (temp) resistance? I have the look-up curve for the latter? I assume the pot value is used to trim (or offset) the temperature reading into the ECU… Cheers all.

:wink: She asked me the other day how much my new suspension cost. I said £65 a corner to make it sound better... It's actually bloody good value, but trying to convince someone who thinks a car is just something to get you to the shops / Hairdressers this is another matter! Back on topic, what does the RSR do sound-wise?