Henny

the leak could well be upping the temp slightly... Oh, and I usually use a 1/3 antifreeze mix 'cos it never really gets cold in the UK...

The Hub, I've got a set of smoked on order... I'll take the clears if you have my smoked... That OK with you Tempest?

try demon tweeks too, (in Wrexham) http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk

I'm pretty certain that they never did a digifiz option for the Corrado...

D'oh! yup, I got confused due to the 1.988ltr comment... :oops: 2.0 16V CAN be chipped... no idea how much difference it makes though... :|

how much antifreeze have you put in there? A different %age mix could change the temps by that much with no problems...

Wayne's remapping it? It's not a problem with the map then... if it's Wayne Schofield then he's god when it comes to mapping cars... 8) He'll also have kept a copy of the original map and will also have several other maps he's done for other Corrados (mine included, although that's a G60! :lol: ) so if they can't get it back how it was, then it's Dubsport who's screwed something up... :|

astra gte....

2.0 and 1.8 are essentially the same. mounting points are the same, and they'll both fit under the early bonnet (only the VR6 won't) You may need to do some work on the electrics if you want the 2.0 to fit as VW intended, or you may be able to just use the K-Jetronic injection that your car already uses with a little bit of modding and bodging... dunno about the downpipe though...

who's doing the re-programming?

call trading standards... If it wasn't this bad before it went in, and they now can't get it back to how it was, then they've screwed something up and should fix it without charging you for their mistake... ;) Oh, and get it stuck on to a VAG-COM machine to see what the ECU is saying... ;)

dunno where they are then, I've never worked on a VR before... :|

8) with ya there Daz.... ;)

no more nails will do it for you... or a couple of 6" nails will do the same thing... :lol:

You can test the boost on the MFA. use the search for "Hidden AND MFA" and you should find out how to do it... 8)

iandavidcassidy, which engine do you have?

if you're going 4x100 to 5x100 you can do it with adaptor plates, but you need to be careful with the offset of the wheels and take into account the thickness of the adaptors (typically around 20mm)

only place I know is Top Marques in Stoke which doesn't help you much... :| :roll:

the rear disks also are the bearing carriers, so you just buy VR6 rear disks which have the 5 tapped holes in them, with a new set of bearings and they fit onto the same stub axles... It's the fronts which are a git 'cos you've got to change the whole hub as well as the disk... :|

Knackered temp senders... ;)

it increases exhaust flow (decreases back pressure) and can help free up a few horses... It's more beneficial for forced induction (Super/turbo charged) cars though... 8) Oh, and taking the cat off also helps stop your car from pumping out some seriously nasty chemicals rather than a bit of carbon monoxide... (California is about to ban catalytic convertors on new cars after a study showed just how much worse/more harmful the gasses coming out of a cat were compared to the gasses coming out of a non-cat car!)

I've got 7.5x16 on my C and they look great. 8x16 shouldn't be too much of a problem as long as you are sensible with the offsets... 8)

change the rear disks to VR6 ones and then change the front hubs and disks to VR6 ones... Oh, and don't forget to buy new wheel bolts as the VR6 uses 14mm bolts, not 12mm! :lol:

that sounds like the circlip kerrinmay... Lift up the plastic bit which has the Karmann (or Storm if you're a bit like that! ;) ) badge on it and you'll see the shifter mechanism. Pull the lever back and forth and you'll see it pivots on a shaft running side to side, at the left hand side of this shaft there should be a clip to stop the lever slipping off the end of the shaft as you go for reverse, 1st and 2nd gears. Put the car into neutral, and then move it over to go towards reverse, if the shaft completely dissappears into the lever, then the clip is missing and that's your problem... 8)

Any good MOT inspector would spot that the car has a SODDING HUGE ABS pump under the bonnet, and sensors on the wheels and instantly fail the car on non-functioning ABS if you "remove the light unit"... :roll: Also, if you DO have an accident in which someone is injured, your car is on the roads illegally (it's not in a condition to pass an MOT) and you will get royally screwed by the police, insurance companies and the other party and found to have been driving a car which was not fit to use on the public highways... :| Personally, I'd fix the ABS! :lol: Oh, and if I found out about a garage which didn't notice something like this, I'd never go near 'em with a barge pole again, 'cos if they've missed something that big, what else have they missed which could cost me MY life as well as some other poor bugger who happens to be in the wrong place... :|