Henny

did you take pictures and contact the police at the time of the accident? These could help you in your claim... If you have a police incident number, call the local station and explain that you'd like to talk to someone about the case and explain about the insurance. If you can get a statement from the police stating that the accident was the fault of the scooter rider's inappropriate speed and get it over to the insurance company, then they should stop payment and be able to flip the blame back onto the scooter rider... :) However, it's worth checking your insurance policy wording to see if there's a clause that says something along the lines of "The insurance company will decide as to blame, and that decision is final"... Swiftcover has something similar, which means that if you don't agree, then tough... :( I got stung by this one when I had a bump in my Passat having taken photos of the bump which proved that the other guy must have been speeding, but they simply didn't want to know and just threw this clause at me saying that they'd already made their decision that I was at fault, where at worst it should have been 50/50... :( I now read my insurance policy documents properly and have handed back and cancelled one policy within the 30days allowed due to similar clauses... Good luck. :)

mine was a hard line... it was covered in muck and obviously hadn't been inspected at the MOT the car had just failed... Needless to say, I won't be going back to that garage!

Had similar with my Passat... it failed its MOT on a couple of front suspension arms (no surprise there, it's a B5 and they ALWAYS need an arm at MOT time!!! ) but with no other advisories. I changed the arms in my garage, reversed the car out of my drive and the pedal went to the floor with no braking going on! Yanked on the handbrake to stop on my drive and just made it! When I looked around the car, the solid pipe on the driver's rear axle had a 2" split in it and obviously hadn't been inspected as is supposed to be part of the MOT test! :( I think I'm just VERY lucky that it didn't go while I was driving it on the road.... scary stuff when you think about what could have happened! :|

just don't let it sit not getting used... it hurts more in the long run! Sell the 'rado, get something family friendly, then in a couple of years get yourself another 'rado.... it's what I'm kinda planning on doing.... ;)

Yellow Corrado (think it was a H plate) on the A56 Chester road heading towards Trafford at about 8:10 on Thursday evening.... I was in my A6 going the other way while you were sat at lights at the Davyhulme road junction opposite Gleaves tools... Anyone here?

Woah! Just cottoned onto the fact that this thread is over 8 years old! Hadn't realised that I'd owned this car that long! :oops: :lol:

just don't use hammerite or any other oil based paint! any oil/fuel leak/spill, and your block instantly looks cr@p as the paint falls off! There are quite a few good engine lacquers out there that aren't expensive and do a nice job... :) Depending on the colour of the car, I'm quite partial to either a red or blue block, just to have a little colour in there and make it a bit more obvious someone's spent some TLC on the engine, but then, I've painted the last 4 blocks I built black! :lol:

Thanks to Dox for a very pleasant sale of my Corrado rolling shell... Lots of communications (and a couple of meetings!), no quibbles, and always arrived at the time he said he would. Thanks mate, you made it very easy even though I felt very sad inside... :)

Well, it's the end of an era... first time in over a decade that I've not owned a Corrado... :( She left today to go to her new home and receive a little TLC (And a new engine/gearbox/interior etc!)... Sad to see her go, but happy she's (hopefully!) going to make a come back of some description or other... 8) oh, and the bloke in the pics is the van driver... I've no idea who he is!!! :lol:

Bump for the gauges/dash centre... :)

Thanks Marni! Brakes sold, paid for, and collected... 8)

that's only the bottom half... if they've smashed it off, the odds are that you'll need the top bit too! My advice would be to take up Jim Bowen's offer, and then if it's not required, you can pass it on to the next poor soul who needs one (or send it back!)... :)

Thanks to Marni for a nice easy sale of my Brembo brakes... good communications and turned up when he said he would... Good to meet you matey, and hope you enjoy the brakes! :)

lol! Cheers Stone... no problems with you as a buyer either! :D Quick to pay and nice comms too! :)

Pics of brakes... :) Disks will be skimmed clean by an engineering workshop before selling, but you can see they don't need a lot from these pics... :) (unless marni does buy them tomorrow...)

marni? I've just replied... :) Ashtray, Have a look at the 4th post down in this thread for pics of how they looked on the car... :) As for postage costs, I'll have to phone a couple of couriers tomorrow as they'll all be shut now, but I'd imagine it'd be somewhere between £50 and £70 for delivery of the 5 wheels (4 with tyres), bolts and spacers...

yay! Suppose that means I'd better get the 'ssat shifted so we can get at the 'rado then! :oops: :lol:

Just to formalise this, Marni has first refusal on the brakes subject to the P&P costs (which I'll get for him tomorrow) being acceptable to him. (I've replied to your PM) Redfox? It depends on the design of the wheel as to if they'll fit... ET35 16" Borbet Cs won't fit without a 10mm spacer, but ET40 will with the same 10mm spacer... this is due to the design of the wheel and the spacing between the inner face of the spokes where it joins to the barrel of the wheel. Without seeing the wheels, I couldn't even guess if they'll fit over or not, as I've seen 17s that won't fit, but yet some 15s (Compomotive MOs for example) do! Dox? Car is now ready for you to collect... (I'll text you too!)

don't think you need disks to put the wheels on do you? Still, doesn't matter either way as I'll stick it on stands if you've got some disks to shove on! :) I'll let you know, but thur/fri morning sounds realistic at the moment... :)

Yup, will give you a yell either tomorrow or Weds to confirm... Made up the blanking pipes for the brakes and have started to strip them off, but ran out of time this morning to get them off completely... Once they're off, it's all ready for you to take away... :)

DVLA only need to be informed of any change of engine number, engine capacity and the actual colour of the car, unless it's changed so radically that you can't tell what the car is, in which case a conversation with DVLA is probably advisable (like that monstrosity of a Corrado that had the MKIV Golf front end grafted onto it... :( ) Things like having your car wrapped in a different colour are a very grey area, as technically you should inform DVLA of the change of colour... Your insurance company needs to be informed of ANY modifications that alter the way the car will handle, accelerate, brake or look... If not, you'll find that you're driving without valid insurance and could be in very hot water if you are involved in an accident... :|

The 8V pistons won't work with a 16V head, although the head will bolt onto the block. To clear the 16valves, the pistons need to have cutouts in them to allow clearance, and the 8V pistons don't have them, so you'd need custom pistons (although you could use 4 S2 pistons if you can find some). To do a 16V G60 is a LOT of work.... you need a shed load of custom brackets, a custom inlet manifold, pistons and lots of other bits too... Not a job for the feint hearted, but one that can produce a lot of power if done well...

Right, Had a bit of a think on this whilst trying to learn how to use a Mac in a windows environment (don't ask!) and I've drawn up the following list of the electrical bits that could be damaged by doing this that'd actually stop a VR6 from starting, what (at least, what I think! :lol:) would be the likely outcome/s should that be the faulty bit, and some possible tests... Battery -> Nothing electrical works ;) -> Try another battery! Fuse box -> Various things don't work (or nothing works!), or work when they shouldn't, or give out smoke/burning smells and/or flames! -> You've already got a new fuse box, so this can be counted as tested! Wiring -> Various things don't work, or work when they shouldn't, or give out smoke/burning smells and/or flames! -> Auto electrician time, or break out the multimeter and wiring diagram to check all the wiring... :| Alarm/immobiliser -> Engine won't run. Depending on how the immobiliser has been fitted, could be no starter, no fuel or no spark, or any combination of those... -> Auto electrician time... Ignition switch -> Engine may or may not turn but won't fire, normally with no spark and no fuel. Or, may begin to run, then die when the key is released. -> Try a new switch, they're only £20 and a new one can be used to test without removing the old one ;) Relays -> Fuel pump relay will result in no fuel, you won't hear the fuel pump prime. X-Relay and ECU relay will result in no power to the ECU, so no fuel and no spark, OR may allow the engine to start but then die when the ignition key is released... -> check relay operation on all 3 relays, check for 12V at ECU and 12V at fuel pump, both when key is on ignition and when turned to start position. ECU -> Could give no spark, or no fuel, or both, or WAAAYYYY too much fuel... -> You've already swapped this, so count this as possibly tested. Coil and Distributor /coil pack and crank sensor -> no spark, or very poor spark -> You've swapped the coil pack, but you need to check the crank sensor to make sure it's signalling properly... break out the multi meter! Fuel pump -> no fuel and no sound from fuel pump at any time. -> test by bridging fuel pump relay and sending 12V straight to the pump Starter motor/solenoid -> Engine won't turn over -> test by putting 12V to the solenoid ENSURING THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR!!! Injectors -> no fuel, or not enough fuel if the coils are damaged, or just possibly waaaaaayyyy too much fuel if they've jammed open! -> Check resistance/impedance of each injector against a known good injector Other things that may have been damaged to watch out for that may make it run (or appear to run) very badly: Aux water pump, all temp and pressure sensors, dashboard instruments, idle stabilisation system (not sure how this works on a VR6 :oops: ), fan switch,

ignition switch... they're dodgy as hell from the factory, and the extra load that lobbing 24V through the system whilst popping ECUs etc will almost certainly have cooked that too... They're about £25 from the stealers and someone helpful (*cough* :lol: ) wrote a rather good guide to how to fit them that's on here somewhere! ;) Oh, and check the injectors... I can't imagine that the solenoid coils will have liked having 24V shoved through them either!

Had a good look for the lock mechanism and barrel last night and can't find it anywhere... :oops: I know I've not sold it yet, so it's probably in my garage somewhere, so I'll have another look over the next couple of days, but it may be worth your while taking StoneJag up on his offer so you don't get stuck without the parts you need to fix your car... Sorry... I'll keep looking and let you know if I find it... :(