Henny

Having a clear out... All parts are in Congleton Cheshire, or Salford Quays, Manchester if you want to collect. All Corrado parts are from a '92 Corrado G60 with the early style interior... Interior/Electrical Prices include P&P Corrado early dash center with vents, and drivers side vent/switch surround (great condition, with no broken clips) - £25 Corrado Window switch £5 Corrado Window switch surround (double) (x2) £5 each Corrado Window switch surround (Single) £3 SOLD Corrado Spoiler manual switch + Surround £10 Corrado Sunroof switch £10 Corrado Electric Mirror switch £7.50 Corrado Electric Mirror switch without knob (x1) £5 Corrado ABS Light £15 Corrado Cooling fan relay (ABS version) 1H0 919 506B £10 Corrado Indicator/Wiper stalks £15 Corrado C/L pump + Housing + Strap £20 Corrado Handbrake cover trim (Grey)£5 Corrado interior door pull (pair, black, early, slight damage to bottom where you lever them open) £5 for the pair Corrado Rear View Mirror £5 Corrado early interior light (4 pin connector) - (x2, 1 has broken clips, the other is fine) £7.50 for the intact one £4 for the other one. Passat B3 center sunvisor (above rear view mirror - clips onto Corrado sunroof motor cover) £15 SOLD Corrado Sunvisors + clips (pair) £15 Corrado Coat hooks (pair) £5 Corrado G60 sunroof motor 357 877 795 £10 Gearbox bits Prices include P&P Gearshift weight (Cable change box) (x2) £10 each Gearbox inspection bung £5 SOLD Corrado G60 gearbox lower inspection panels 2 pieces £5 SOLD Engine bits Prices DO NOT include P&P G60 Exhaust manifold £25 G60 Rocker cover - Aqua blue inc oil splash plate £15 SOLD G60 rocker cover breather outlet (Square, not UFO) + pipe to connect to boost return £10 G60 ISV including both standard rubber pipes £20 G60 P/S pump £15 SOLD G60 airbox to charger hose (x2) £15 G60 Corrado airbox (modified - Bottom cut to improve air-flow into box) £15 G60 starter motor excellent condition £40 SOLD G60 starter motor slightly rough looking condition, but worked fine £30 G60 coil £15 SOLD G60 dizzy + Clamp excellent condition £40 SOLD G60 dizzy + Clamp rough looking condition, but worked fine £25 G60 side water flange (non genuine, but brand new) £5 G60 bottom metal water pipe (the one that feeds the radiator) £10 G60 block metal water pipe £10 SOLD G60 P/S bracket 037 903 245 £7.50 (one SOLD) G60 knock sensor (nearly new) £10 G60 C/O pot £10 SOLD G60 Cambelt pulley (not sure which one) 037 109 111 £5 G60 cambelt top cover 026 109 123B £5 G60 Charger bracket 037 145 812 £10 (one SOLD) G60 Charger bracket + tensioner arm + tensioner without pulleys £25 SOLD G60 Charger top belt cover £5 SOLD G60 Cam cover to Fuel rail brackets (pair) (x2) £5 G60 HT Leads (x2 sets) £10 Corrado G60 Charger to block support bracket £5 Brake bits Corrado G60 ABS Servo + Master Cylinder 358 614 105 £25 (not inc. P&P) Corrado G60 ABS Servo vacuum pipe including valve with both nipples intact £15 Other, none Corrado parts Prices do not include P&P Power Steering rack 1H2 422 061 £45 MKII 90 spec steering column surround (both pieces) £10 MKI Golf Zender 3 piece boot spoiler £65

Bit of a milestone passed on the work today... 200,000 miles! :) She's still running well and I think is probably the most versatile and most reliable (he types, touching wood!) car I've ever owned... so that's almost 80,000 miles I've put on this car in just over 4.5 years, with only normal servicing, tyres, brakes, a few front suspension parts, a fan and a rear wiper motor needing to be changed (other than the rear door that was accident damaged!) not bad at all...

I'd go one further as I wouldn't really class K-Series as engines to be honest... :norty: cleaning the expansion tank in a dishwasher works well... I've been advised not to do the cap by a mate who's a mechanic in the past, can't remember why though... :roll:

inca was a '91 only colour... with this being a K plate (93) it'll be aqua blue pearl effect... Sweet looking car anyway.... 8)

oh my word... I'd been thinking about the posibility of doing a V8 S4 conversion to a Corrado for a while now after seeing a site where a guy is sticking one in the back of a Porsche 356! I'd wanna go 4x4 though, so I'll be looking at your site closely... :) Great work! 8)

yeah, you don't need the K&N... that's a vent pipe from the fuel tank... there's a handy little hole in the inner wing that you can feed it down into from the bay so that it vents to atmosphere... in over 8 years of running my G60 I never had a problem or any smell of fuel caused by having binned the carbon cannister and having threaded the pipe into that hole... :) There's a thicker pipe that needs to be plugged which, if you blank it with a short pipe, will cause a rather irritating whistle... simply leave a 12" bit of the original pipe attached to it and put a bolt in the end of it with a jubilee clip to seal the pipe onto the bolt. This will stop it from whistling... :) Oh, and if you go to a motor factors and get a diesel blanking plug, this will seal the nipple on the back of the throttle body perfectly and look neat too! ;)

deffo bin the carbon cannister... as long as you blank the pipes off properly then it'll run exactly the same as it does now... It'll also allow you to cut a hole in the bottom of the airbox to take advantage of the large hole in the chassis leg where the cannister used to be... ;)

I had a MKII with the wrong switch in it, and it bugged me once I noticed that it was wrong enough that I replaced it with a correct one, but was intrigued enough to find out WTF the switch with the wrong symbol was out of by looking up the part number.... :ubergeek:

That looks sweet, but had me somewhat scared for a minute when I saw your reg plate... :eek: Looked again and it turns out I've got it's (very slightly) younger, darker sibling! 8)

actually, it's not off a golf, 'cos the bulb icon would be the other way around (the switches mount portrait, not landscape in a golf).... it'll be out of a Passat which had similar switchgear, but mounted landscape as they are in a Corrado... mode>

cut it out and fit a TT/motorbike style filler... not to everyone's taste, but much easier than trying to repair the rot there...

I like that pic henny :D :thumbleft: Is that a Rieger front bumper? Makes the front of the car look out of propertion compared to the back. :( Yeah, it was a Reiger RS4 ABS bumper... I sold it not long after these photos as I decided that I didn't like the way it made the front look too heavy compared with the rest of the car, and I didn't want to start putting body kits on her to even it up... Great bumper though, let loads of nice cold air into the front to hit the Golf G60 intercooler... :)

and this one of my old G60 (RIP) doing 140mph at Bruntingthorpe.....

can't find a better resolution version, but I really like this one...

1.00) Are you sure that's the TDC marker and not the 6degree BTDC mark? If it's the zero mark, there should be a 0 just under the lip to the left of that photo... easiest way to tell (Before you take the cam-belt off!) is to turn the engine by hand BACKWARDS a little to see if you can see the 6deg mark appear, if you can, then turn it back to the zero mark... :) 2.00) stick the car in gear to lock the crankshaft pulley (with the wheels on the ground of course!) or put the car in gear (with wheel bolts through the disks if the wheels aren't on!) and get a mate to stand on the brake pedal to lock up the crank... ;) 3.00) yup, that's the bugger that snaps... :( Replace it with one off a MKI Golf GTI 1800 (DX engine code) which has a standard hex head and ISN'T a stretch bolt... you won't actually have to undo this to change the cam-belt, but it's worth changing it while you're in there... BEWARE, it goes in F***ing tight, so you may not be able to undo it or tighten it up to the correct torque unless you have a big assed torque wrench... 4.00) a standard socket out of your Halford 150 piece socket set will get out the 12 point bolts... have a look and you'll find that they're 12 sided sockets... otherwise, get yourself down to Halfords and go buy a 12sided socket (think it's a 19mm from memory, but get confirmation before spending money!!!) 5.00) just undo the nut, the tensioner won't spin as the bit the nut tightens onto is fixed against the engine... the hole through the tensioner is not central, so if you loosen the nut, the pulley can be moved to add/remove tension by turning it on it's pivot. I tend to use a thin old screwdriver which I've bent to pull the tensioner up and hold the tension on the belt while I tighten it... 6.00) The mark on the tensioner/bottom pulley isn't all that important if you've got the flywheel mark lined up already... with the toothed belt setup I used to have, I didn't have a mark on the bottom pulley, so it isn't essential... ;) If you want to line it up properly, there's nothing to stop you doing that once you're ready to bolt it back on again... 7.00) the 4 bolts through the tensioner and bottom pulley are not in a standard pattern... one is offset slightly so it WILL only bolt back on in one orientation... ;) 8.00) There is a mark on the dizzy... I can see it in your pic! at the top of the pic right in the middle of the rotor arm, on the edge of the dizzy body, there's a thin groove... that's your marker... :) HOWEVER, if that's how it's set at TDC, your timing is set to TDC, not 6degree BTDC... :| Make sure (again!) that the mark on your flywheel IS the TDC mark, and not the 6degree marker! 9.00) AGAIN, check the fly marker... ;) 6 degrees is about a tooth on the cam... :censored: As a check, if you take off the rocker cover (ball-ache I know!) then there's a single mark on the back of the cam pulley which should line up EXACTLY with the top face of the head and give you a much better idea as to where the cam is timed up to... I'd bet it's one tooth up from where it should be... ;) good luck!

yup, that's correct...

Yup, I did exactly that in my first C which was an H plate valver... you'll need to get a space saver AND the carpet though, as the carpet is shaped, unless you're just going to put a board in to put your build on I suppose... I don't actually carry a spare anymore, I just have a can of tyre foam and an AA card... cuts down on excess weight in the car, and means I can put other things in the spare wheel well! 8)

There's several boot configurations, and they depend on both the size of the tank (ie, is it an early car - 12G tank, or a late car - 15G tank) and the size of the spare wheel... Early small tank with space saver = totally flat boot carpet Early small tank with full sized alloy spare = medium hump Later large tank with space saver = small hump Later large tank with full sized alloy spare = BIG hump Pretty sure that's accurate anyway... 8)

MKII Golf TDI rear mount... ;) Much stiffer, and cheap as chips... then fill that full of stuff if you want it even stiffer... :)

nah, I don't like it.... :wink: Honestly, I think that it cleans the back of the car up loads.... I had mine welded up when the car was re-sprayed.... With regards to the problem with water on the screen when trying to reverse, I have a silicone blade I keep in the car which I give the rear window a quick swish with when I get in it, then the Rain-X that it's treated with keeps it clear the rest of the time... :)

it depends... :? Rallye golfs were a smaller capacity unit and often had different injectors to the Corrado G60 engines, so the map won't quite be right for a Corrado engine... It'll run, but it may either run rich, or lean at different points in the fuelling map and rev-range depending on which flavour engine/ECU the Rallye in question had (and there's a couple of flavours I know of!)... The MK2 GTI ECU won't work as they're Digifant1 not Digifant2 as needed by the G60 engine... MK2 Drivers weren't injection, so won't have an ECU as such!

that's gotta be one of the last registered G60s if it's on a K plate... looks nice... 8)

sounds like a boost leak... check around the boost pipe connections in the engine bay with some soapy water while the engine's running and see if you get bubbles... bubbles = leak = loss of boost = running rich... If you don't find any leaks, then it could be that the blue temp sensor has died... with the ignition off, swap the blue and black sensor's plugs over, then try driving it... if it's any better and the water temp gauge doesn't work (at all, or just goes full scale), that's your problem, get a new BTS and you're laughing... Other things it could be are: Charger being unhealthy; lambda sensor having failed; vacuum leak (especially from the pipes at the back of the throttle body); and cam timing having jumped a tooth (when was the cam-belt last changed?)

Yup, any old insulated fuse holder will do... mine's got a 1A blade fuse in it as that's the type the rest of the car uses... ;)

oh, and it's worth checking the multi-plug for the MFA stalk anyway, but as you can't alter the clock with the buttons on the cluster either, I'd go for the multi-plug being ok... ;)