Henny

changing the manifold is a bit of a tricky job unless you've got the head off (then it's easy!) so £110 isn't over the top IMHO.... 8)

how wet was the road you drove down? could just be road water evaporating off the radiator... Check the coolant level in your expansion tank to check it's not dropped any and keep an eye on it until you're happy it's not dropping any and that it was just rain water steaming off the hot radiator... ;)

As Phatty says, it's just a metal pipe to replace the plastic one between the metering head and throttle body on K-Jet cars... looks nice and shiney and that's about it...

tempting.... Mine's been ported to within an inch of its' life, so can't be taken any further... Wonder where I can get one from and how much it'd be... :?:

GSF do 'em... phone 'em and tell 'em what your car is and they should be able to tell you which one you need... 8)

normal coil looks like a redbull can kinda shape. Elecronic coil is more of a box shape normally.

8) Good luck! 8)

G-Werks one (yeah, I know I'm starting to sound like a stuck record, but his stuff IS good! :lol: ) is deffo worth it... it's on my shopping list if I can get hold of some money... 8)

sounds like it could be the good old ignition switch as most of what you've replaced are electrical based which will be suspect in faults like those caused by the switch... ;) What, exactly, does the car do/not do?

Having seen the quality of the cage in that blue 'rado, I can testfy that it's a quality show cage... 8) ...I have no idea how good it'd be as a REAL roll cage, but as a show one, it's nicely made, fits well (dunno how hard it was to fit to the car though!) and looks very, very smart... 8)

sounds like it'll be a monster, and knowing you, it will live up to how it sounds... ;) 8)

dinkus, they do fit... I've seen a VR6 with an early bonnet before.... I don't want to think just how little clearance there is, and I hope they had good stiff engine mounts! :lol:

1.8 16V is a bit more involved as they tended to have mechanical speedo so the wiring loom the dash is different as well as the engine loom... It's not impossible though, there's several people on here who have done it... 8)

the head that Rick quotes hasn't had the hand taping that mine has... I have the graphs in my lockup somewhere... Like I say, mine was the full monty, big valve, hand taped CNC head and, from memory, the exhaust flowed the same as the standard valver head... :)

I'm still running my JMR solid front mount and have had no problems over 30K+.... I did replace all the rubbers on the front subframe and both rear mounts when I fitted it though... 8)

if you do go with Crashers advice (and it's good advice in my eyes) consider getting a CNC ported head (G-werks is a retailer)... Rick Wood racing who does the CNC heads has a normally aspirated 16V KR engine running one of these heads with just fuelling and cam mods pulling 219BHP! clicky!

drop Kevhaywire a pm, pretty sure he's down your neck of the woods and knows of a good refurbisher... 8)

standard 16v head doesn't flow more than my CNC head though and is a damned site harder to fit... :lol:

That's exactly the point I was getting at, but based on a standard engine... 8) The standard engine benefits from a flowed head (I know, the head I swapped off for the CNC one was bought for my standard engine before the crank bolt snapped and sent me spiralling into the depths of a silly power rebuild!) but, as per the original point of this thread, a bigger valved head releases MORE power than just a ported polished one AND provides a better basis for extra future modifications... ;)

Wherever the existing oil temp sensor originally goes... ;) remove, add T piece, connect original and new oil temp sensor to T piece, connect wiring. Job done. 8)

Blue_Joe, no, you totally missed the point in my last post... I went from a standard valve head to a big valve CNC head and gained the extra 30+bhp... Ignore the rest of the mods that have been done to my engine as they didn't change, the ONLY changes were the head and matching G-werks cam to gain that 30+bhp... I'm not saying that if you bolt on one of daz's heads, you'll gain 30bhp, but you will definately see gains over a standard valve sized ported/polished head... 8)

m10x1 *cough* clicky *cough* This one will allow you to unscrew an existing sender, screw in the adaptor and then screw 2 senders into the adaptor... and all for £5.92!

it IS the gear ratios... 16V will hit 60 in second, G60 needs third which adds on around a second to the 0-60 time... IIRC the valver's 0-60 is very similar to a standard G60s... Don't forget though that VW quotes its figures with half a tank of fuel, 2 passengers and luggage in a complete showroom standard car, unlike several other manufacturers who strip the car out and run it on vapours to make them seem as fast as possible... ;) Mid range though, the G60 shows its true colours and will leave a valver in its dust! 8)

Just swapping the head off my engine (standard valve sizes, but with RacePower having ported/polished it) for a G-Werks CNC top of the range (big valve, mega ported and polished) and matching cam, I gained over 30BHP... That's a real world figure as it was the only changes that I did at that time to go from 217bhp to 252bhp... There may be even more to come as I've now got a fuel pump which is giving decent pressure :oops: and an exhaust which isn't as restrictive and isn't going to melt like the miltek one I had before did... :|

Lippy, I don't work for them anymore, they sold the station I work for (and my services) a couple of weeks ago... :| Rado is coming along... should be running again sometime soon, but my wedding's taking up all my time at the moment... only 24days of freedom remaining! :|