Henny

used to drive the G60 for the 64 mile round trip to/from work every day (and sometimes at weekends too!) but now I have the passat TDI, I use that instead both to keep the miles off the G60 and 'cos it's costing me around a third of the cost in fuel! :lol: Miss driving the G60 home from work though... the M56/M60 can be quite a nice playground to annoy porsches and the like in the evenings on the way home... ;) :twisted: :lol:

this almost happened to me on my maiden long voyage in J-DUB on the way to Inters a couple of years ago... Felt a bit of a wobble from the steering so pulled over to find that all 4 bolts were only just held in... :crazyeyes: jacked her up, tightened the bolts, dropped her back on her wheels again and continued on to Inters... Bit scarey when you look back and think... hummm, just before that break in the journey we'd been sat at a nice 80->95mph and what would have happened if the wheel came loose at that kinda speed... :|

Ah, man, another one bites the dust... :( Looks to have survived reasonably well though considering what you hit... if you're after a good shell to swap the bits over onto, drop me a line... ;)

FMIC every time.... (Mine's a Golf G60 one too...)

7.5x 16 should be et 30 on a 4 stud 'rado... (don't ask about how many sets of Borbets I've had... :oops: )

I think they take credit cards directly now... I had to do a bank transfer when I bought mine, but it was all nice and smooth... They've been around long enough now that they have a good reputation... 8) Mine's still being investigated to find out what's up with it... :|

buy an OEM one.... they're a little more money, but deffo better quality... You may want to get one from GPC though to save a little money... ;)

the bar-tek ones are excellent... I've used these on both J-DUB and now H-YYU with no problems at all... 8)

yup, I've got some on H-YYU (they were bought for J-DUB) The ally boost pipes are a very good fit, and are very nicely made - I bought the non-polished ones, but they were very clean and would have been pretty easy to polish up if I wanted to... The silicone pipes are excellent too... I've also got their U-bend to golf intercooler pipe on my car and the clamps they come with are very high quality... They are really easy to deal with and I found them to be exceptionally helpful - when I was stuck for a part they pulled out all the stops and really dug me outta the hole I was stuck in... 8) Basically, I'd use 'em again any time... 8)

rub the flat bit of the block with a little sand paper... that'll make the numbers show up much more clearly... ;) 8)

think you also need a THICK head gasket else your compression will allow you to run on diesel! :lol:

furrynuff... I tend to get the GSF ones now as I replace them whenever I do a headgasket change, which has been far to regular at the moment... :roll:

yup, hence GSF... ;)

StuartFZR400, think it's an old Merc... I take it he actually lost the police then and they only found him afterwards? Looks like he was trying to say "nah, wasn't me guv, must have been someone else with my numberplate in an identical car!" when he's sat talking to the copper while having a fag... :lol:

engine code for a G60 is PG Tell them it's the BLUE water temp sensor and the BLACK water temp sensor that sits in the front coolant flange on the head... if they can't get it from that, ask to talk to their supervisor and advise them to sack the muppet who can't read ETKA 'cos it's a piece of p!$$ to find from that! :lol: :twisted:

rad switch is about £8 IIRC, blue/black temp sensors are less than £25 for the pair.

yup.... if there's power there and the thermo switch has been changed for a good new one, then the fan should kick in at both speeds... If is still doesn't, it could be a dodgy resistor pack within the fan motor which, unfortunately, isn't changable... :( Blue temp sensor just tells the ECU what temp the engine's at. Black temp sensor is the sender for the dashboard temp gauge.

Sounds like the fan's not kicking in... Check the radiator fan switch, fuse in fuse box which controlls the fan (or check the 2 by the expansion tank if you have ABS)

check your fuses! I had loads of problems which ended up taking out the headgasket on H-YYU.... all 'cos of a dodgy fuse which ended up blowing and stopping the fan from cooling the radiator... :( Anyway, gauge on the left shows COOLANT temp, display on the MFA shows oil temp. Water temp should stay around the middle of the gauge's scale (most VWs gauges are calibrated so that's the normal range) 110 is WAY too hot for normal running... your fan should have come on WELL before then, and if it hasn't it needs investigating ASAP.... Good luck!

If you're gonna do it, use the GTI K-Jetronic fuel pump as it's more than man enough for the job (if it's a new one! original ones will be well weak by now!) Wiring can be a bit of a nightmare depending on how early a MKI it is... if it's a later one with blade fuses instead of bullets, then it's a bit easier and you can get conversion looms which plug into the existing fusebox to connect to the G60 engine loom... Personally, I'd sell the 'rado and source a G60 engine/box for the MKI instead of breaking a good 'rado, but that's just me... Worst thing about MKIs is that you have to lift the car on to/off from the engine so test fitting and the like can be a bit of a pig... (I built a MKI 16V so know what an arse they can be to work on! )

the knock sensor is basically a microphone that listens for knocking from the engine... banging it and making the engine change note proves that it's working ok... as long as the engine settled back to it's normal note not long after you knocked the sensor, you'll be fine... 8)

:oops: mine's still off the road.... broken again... :oops: She'll be better and faster when she nexts hits the road though..... ooh yes, Henny's been playing again... ;) :lol:

I gave up being paranoid after the 3rd time I had to take it off the road for over 2 months due to something going wrong... now I just accept that it's gonna go wrong at some point, so I hammer the hell out of it until it does! :twisted: :lol: :oops: Running 250bhp out of a supercharged 1.9 is never gonna be as reliable as when it was a standard 150bhp 1.8, but hey, it's a hell of a lot more fun! :lol:

I always thought that mandrel bending tight turns actually restricted air flow more than cutting and welding sections of pipe to make the bend? :|

pretty certain that you need to remove the tow eye on the drivers side and the box section that this is held onto to fit the sprinter intercooler as it's a bit of a monster sized thing...