Henny

hummm.... beats the Punto that I'm hiring at the moment... :pukeright:

interesting... how does that work then? :| So, the ECU dumps excess boost through the ISV as the MAP sensor can no-longer read the boost as it's gone past it's upper limit -> gyro valve stops boost leaking -> the magic sensor in the system reads the extra boost -> ECU detects the gyro valve via telepathy and adjusts fuelling accordingly??? The whole problem is that the MAP sensor is a 1 bar (over normal atmospheric pressure) sensor... any boost OVER that 1bar, the ECU cannot deal with so it tries to leak it out of the ISV.... The ONLY way to get around this problem is to fit an up-rated MAP sensor and change the programming on the ECU main chip to take that into account (ie remap the ECU)...

Scruffythefirst, I'm considering sticking in a high-gain Yagi aerial for the wi-fi just for the best in wi-fi range.... :geek:

right, the GPS thing is so that I can have sat-nav and will be either a USB or an internal PCMCIA card jobbie, not bluetooth (as it's not very good) The 802.11G card that's in my lappy is purely for war-driving internet access at wi-fi hotspots. The missile launcher was a thought, but was deemed to be a little too silly, so a HUB may be installed instead to allow more control and better access... Webcam wise, I was considering building in a mount for my fujifilm camera which can be used as a 12Mega pix webcam which, I think, will be reasonable for videos... ;) :lol: I'm also considering re-casing the lappy and building it into my glovebox seeing as most of the casing is largely useless due to it not having a screen anymore... Oh, and I have a USB2 TV card for the lappy too so I can watch TV on the move! :lol: Dunno, I'm still playing with ideas at the moment.... ;)

:oops: got the internal laptop aerial hooked upto an external aerial and got Netstumbler and GPS installed to tell me where all the wi-fi hotspots are... oh, and one of my dash blanks will have a keyboard/mouse connector AND USB connectors built into it... :oops: Geeky? Yup... :lol: I'm also considering putting some web-cams into my car for track day action videos... would that take it to uber-geekdom? :oops:

ah,you're assuming that my car HAS the original wiring for the headunit to stay on with the key in the ignition switch... :roll: It doesn't... :oops: so I don't have that option....

which head unit Dinkus? That's the whole point of the system I'm building... there is NO head unit.... ;) Why have a head unit when there's an amp in the boot anyway and the current head unit I'm using is just a HDD with a simple MP3 playing interface on it.... ;) :lol: Sounds time to lob in a touch screen and laptop and do the job properly... ;) Oh, and my laptop needed internal surgery anyway to remove the smashed screen, so adding in 2 solder blobs onto the switch wasn't exactly a problem... ;) There is a way to make it wake on LAN or modem in most bios's, so there's almost certainly a way of doing it over the serial port, or bodging up some electronics to the LAN port to make it wake up again without actually opening up the lappy...

umm, it's been off the road for 4 weeks at the moment, with a 6 month stint over Xmas and about 2 months in various couple of week stints scattered over the past 18 months I've owned the car... :oops: Yeah, it's annoying... J-DUB spent well over 9 months off the road when the engine originally broke the crank bolt and I built up the 1940cc block...

far as I can see... yup... personally, I'd just stick with one inlet and put a small K&N straight onto the ISV so there's no chance that it'll suck in oily air when trying to stabilise the idle, but that's just me... ;)

make sure that the ISV one is as high as possible in the tank (higher than the oil breather pipe, and see if they can put a "shield" inside the tank between that pipe and the filter so that any splashed oil doesn't get into the ISV feed as you mustn't forget that the ISV needs to be able to blow AND suck air in to work properly... ;)

right, attacked it again this weekend... :| Still not found anything wrong... :( Timing is spot on (cam, and dizzy). Cam is turning OK and it all looks ok, as do Tappets. There's oil getting into the head and it looks OK and is pressurising the tappets which ARE opening the valves OK (I've watched 'em through the sparkplug hole!). Pistons look OK. Valves are sealing fine and I'm getting a nice 9.5bar compression on each cylinder (absolutely spot on the same on all 4 cylinders as tested with my new compression tester! :lol: ) Injectors are firing and I'm getting some fuel into the cylinders. Sparks are fine to all 4 cylinders and at reasonable times for it to fire. Oh, and the fuel IS flammable... pumped some into a jamjar and sparked it to see what happened... ;) :lol: :onfire: So, current thinking is an inlet manifold leak or an FPR fault, although an FPR fault wouldn't affect the first 2 cylinders more than the second two if my understanding of fluid dynamics is correct... :| I've bought a new inlet manifold gasket and am going to remove the pheneloic (sp?) gasket and inlet manifold tonight and swap it for a standard gasket to see if that makes any difference. I was thinking about this quite a lot over the weekend (as you can imagine it's been playing on my mind!) and I had a thought about the old "spray WD40 onto the inlet manifold to find a leak" trick... It wouldn't work on a G60 at idle as the inlet manifold is under constant POSITIVE pressure... IE if there's a leak, it'd be BLOWING air out of the manifold joint, not sucking it in, so WD40 wouldn't affect the running of the engine at all... This is the only thing I can think of that would affect cylinders 1&2 and cause them to mis-fire.... if this doesn't work, it's going to a garage to see what they can do, and I'm going to a different garage and buying a Passat TDI instead of this POS Punto hire car! :lol:

yup, 5th and mate pushing all their weight on the brakes worked for me... ;)

iow_corrado_g60, that'd work fine... essentially that's what you're already doing on a standard car with standard pipework... the only thing you'd have to be bloody careful of is that you don't let the oil level in the catch can get too high, else it'll flow down the pipe to the ISV and stop if from working!!!

You have a serious vacuum and boost leak. The reason that your brakes feel heavy is that you have no vacuum assistance from the Servo due to the leak. Check all of the pipework in your engine bay carefully to find the leak. DO NOT drive your car until you have sorted this problem as your brakes will be dangerously un-assisted and not working to their proper efficiency... :|

Stan 24v, I will post some when I actually fit the thing... at the moment, it's a pile of components and wiring sat in my old bedroom at my parents while I try and work out WTF is wrong with the engine... :( triggermyson, yup... use the laptop's powersaving to do the tricky bit of getting it to turn off after you switch off the ignition/leave the car for you... ;) Don't forget to relay the power feed from the 'leccy window brain else you'll pop the fuse when you're listening to your tunes and open the window! :lol:

Right, power wise, use a feed from the electric windows via a relay... that way, it's and ignition live but, also allows you to keep the PC on after you've stopped the car until you open and close the drivers door... ;) Hybernate's easy. Set the powersaving options in the bios to hybernate after a minute (or however you want) when not powered from mains... that way when your ignition (or window!) power cuts, the lappy powers itself for a minute and then hybernates itself... ;) I've rigged up a second power switch to mine (don't ask, it's not pretty! :lol: :twisted: ) which I've added into the dash so that I can simply tap it to un-hybernate the pc when I get back in the car... takes about the same amount of time as starting up my current car stereo! :lol: I've got a lilliput screen (same as the one in the dutch Corrado earlier in this thread only in black) which I got off Ebay from the US for about £130 delivered... it's not the best TFT monitor I've ever seen, but it's perfectly good for use in a car! :lol: It also has a remote which you can program to do odd things too... ;) If you've any other questions, pop 'em in this thread and I'll see if I can answer 'em... 8)

mine used to hit 23psi on the old head... ;)

fuelling problem?

should be the same... the metering head is the same on Golf and Corrado KR engines...

can't remember if it's clockwise or anticlockwise to be honest... :oops: It's been a while.

NO. a Giro valve is a BAD idea FULL STOP. With a Rallye ECU it would still try to vent boost after it hit 1.5 bar rather than 1 bar so you'd be in the same situation, just at higher boost. Same applies with a different map sensor. If you aren't making 1.5 bar with a rallye ECU, then the ECU won't try to vent so you don't need the giro valve. If you find that you have a leaky ISV (it does happen) it's better to repair or replace the ISV than sticking in a bodge valve which is basically what the giro valve is... ;) G-Werks is the UK distributor for BBM so can supply any of their kit... I'd be interested to hear what Darren would say if you asked to buy on of their re-route kits though... ;)

some have a tube, some haven't and some have had it snapped off... There's an allen headed bolt down there (4mm IIRC) to adjust the mixture...

they shear off with age... There's 2 parts. the big bit with the spingy bit in it and a threaded collar... Simply replace both. ;)

Phil's car's the same colour H-YYU is supposed to be: Pearl Grey

I like those options, although I feel that 4 has entertainment potential and should at least have a webcam pointing at it at all times... ;) :lol: