Henny

:lol: reckon that'd work as a defence for speeding? "Well, your honour, I saw this bloke with a gun jump out in front of me so I ducked down low in the car and ended up running him over.... How was I supposed to know it was a speed gun and he was a police man??!" :lol:

compression test will tell you if you bent valves as if they were hit by the pistons, they'll have damaged the stems and won't seal properly anymore... As VEDUBBED says, the pulleys should NOT wobble... if they do, then they need taking off and inspecting to find out why they are, and replacing if buckled...

define boost return kit.... That's the problem, there's 2 different kits that people call "boost return kits" BBM sell one which re-routes the ISV feed so that it attaches back to the pipe which feeds the throttle body rather than the one that takes unused boost back to the supercharger... this is the one which does a similar job to the gyro valve and should be avoided if you like your engine not running lean. G-werks (amongst others) sells a boost return deletion kit which simply removes the pipe which takes the unused boost from the bottom of the throttle back to the superchargers right inlet. This kit includes an air filter for the ISV so that it can vent to atmosphere, or suck in air from the atmosphere when it's acting as an idle stabilisation valve, a long pipe for the oil breather, and a blanking plate for the side of the supercharger. This kit stops hot boost and oil vapours being fed back into the supercharger and is DEFINATELY worth fitting if you can put up with the extra noise it allows the engine to make... 8)

jazzdevil, yes, it would... Think how you'd feel locked up in jail after some poor sod on a motorbike hit it and ended up getting seriously hurt... :( I can sympathise about the chav-speedway thing (where I used to live was like that, especially as the pub I lived opposite became Chav-Central so the muppets used to blat past it as fast as their 1.1 engines would push their fibreglass monstrosities) but there are legitimate road users who could also get hurt by things like that... Better to get a flourecent jacket and a waterpistol/gun shaped thing and jump out from behind a bush as they come towards you aiming it at them a-la speed trap styleee... ;) :lol: Do that a couple of times to random chav cars and watch the average speed past that point plummet! ;) :lol: :twisted:

hall sender is inside the dizzy and is the bit which tells the ecu to fire the coil to send a spark to the plug... Unfortunately, AFAIK, it's not replacable without changing the dizzy, so it's not cheap... :( Give Daz a ring and he'll know how to test it to proove or rule it out as the cause.

I do have a spare block though... ;) Don't think this car's dead yet... ;)

goodridge, yup, same sh!t, different pipework... ;) :lol: NOT to be confused with a boost return modification/deletion kit which doesn't mess with the ISV's bleed ability... 8)

could be coil, more likely to be hall sender from the descriptions you've given so far IMHO...

Thanks to G60-R for the pulley in all it's gaffa tape and bubble wrapped glory.... :lol: 8)

peteTDI, yup, that's the way I'm thinking too.... it's going into my local trusted garage soon... :( If it is head gasket, then the odds are that the block will have to be scrapped as it'll be related to the heli-coiled bolt hole letting go... :(

milk bottle, petrol with a dash of sugar and a rag... add a match... claim on their insurance... That's the kind of level I'm at with mine now... :( Personally, I'd never take my car to VW anyway as most of them have no idea what a G60 engine is, never mind how to fix one... Get it over to Star and see if they can sort it out... ;) Have you cleaned your CO pot just out of interest? Wondering if it's oiled up inside which is causing your overfuelling... just spray it with some carb cleaner and dry it off... ;) iow_corrado_g60, we've spoken already... ;) :lol:

CoxyLaad, it's mechanical... there's a block on the side of the head which has a bi-metallic strip in it which enriches the mixture... there's also another switch which enables the 5th injector for a few seconds on start up...

G60 engines ARE interference engines, so there IS a possiblity that the valves have met pistons... :( Best bet is to stick on a new belt and new pulley bolt, time it all up again and then turn it over by hand without the sparkplugs in to check for resistance anywhere... Then stick the plugs back in and see if it runs... you could well have been lucky... 8) As for timing order, Remove ALL sparkplugs. Put a screwdriver down spark plug hole 1 to find out where the pistons are in their stroke. Turn the engine so that they're all around halfway through their stroke. Then time up the cam to roughly the right place, set the intermediate shaft, and then do the crank turning it so that number1 cylinder only travels UP in it's movement (ie, 2 and 3 DON'T go up) if you have to turn the crank backwards to do this, go past TDC and then turn it the normal way to time it up... 8)

GazzaG60, nah, it's a single driver... only 2 wires which are then split to all 4 injectors which rules out all of that mate... I've also now tried my other G60 ECU with my old (pre-CNC head) chip in it and that makes no difference... :( VEEDUBBED, Tappets normally make a noise when they fail don't they? I suppose it could be that, I'll check it this weekend, thanks... 8) I've stopped using second hand stuff on my engines/running gear as it's caused me too much hassle over the years and so if I can afford to replace with new, then I will, but thanks for the tip... 8)

sorry, meant to reply to your PM but just keep forgetting... :oops: The gyro valve is designed to stop boost from "leaking" through the ISV at hight boost levels... unfortunately Dr Bosch designed the ECU to VENT excess (ie, over 1bar of boost) through the ISV as anything over 1Bar, the ECU can't measure and so doesn't know how to fuel correctly. By sticking in a gyro valve, you're making the ECU think that it's successfully vented the excess boost where infact it's still getting into the cylinder where it will make the car run lean, pink and (thanks to the knock sensor) cause the ECU to knock back the timing causing you to lose power just as you would when the ECU vented some boost... only difference is that the way the ECU is designed to overcome the 1bar limit means that the engine DOES NOT run lean, where using a gyro valve means it WILL run lean while at high throttle which is where expensive damage can happen VERY quickly... The net result in using a Gyro valve is that you gain NO real power increase (unless your ISV is utterly knackered) and you run the risk of melting you pistons... Removing it's a bit of a no-brainer when you realise how the ECU is supposed to work... ;)

:iamwithstupid: 215 40 16s also fit and won't mess the speedo up... 7.5x16 is deffo the best handling package I've tried on my Corrados... 8)

yup, just found the same with H-YYU in that she's got a metal pipe attached to the caliper itself which then attaches to the flexy... it's an age thing I think as H-YYU was like that where J-DUB wasn't... It should fit with no problems though... my Brembos went straight on, so the connectors are all the same... :|

depends on the caliper, some pads have 'em built in, others need a seperate part which is normally available aftermarket...

bcstudent, and we have a winner... ;) Yup, bighands, you've just successfully set your engine up to fire at TDC, not at 6 degrees... :roll: Time to get a timing strobe out and set it up properly again.... ;)

peteTDI, there's 12.8V to each injector with a good switched earth there when the injectors fire too as tested with my multimeter... there appears to be fuel getting into the cylinders, but how much and when I don't know... :| corrado_16v, it's had a replacement set of leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm and plugs on it since it started playing up... the spark is nice and bright on all 4 cylinders, so it's definately not a spark issue... Last night I attacked the car with a multimeter and some tools (always dangerous! :lol: ) All 4 injectors are giving exactly the same resistance when tested individually which is spot on spec. When all connected to the loom they're giving 3.8ohms which is bang on spec. I've swapped 'em over so that 1234 are now 4321. Weird thing is that the fault is slightly less based on 1 and 2 only - it's still predominantly missing on 1&2, but it runs smoother than before when you take 3 or 4 off... I'm gonna book it into my local trusted garage for them to do leakdown tests etc to see if they can work out WTF is going on 'cos I'm now utterly stumped, but, as I'm working on the assumption that the man from the AA actually knew how to use his compression tester, it could well still be a head gasket fault... :( It's not gonna make it to Tatton at the weekend though... :(

aren't G60 rods solid too where the 8V rods have an oilway in them to lubricate the wrist pin bearing? That's part of the reason the G60s have an oil-squirter to lube the wrist pin.

The brake pad anti-squeek spring (I kid you not) has either not been fitted, or has squashed down so that it's allowing the pad to vibrate against the disk causing the squeek... You can normally get around it by putting some copper slip on the back of the pads (NOT THE BIT WHICH TOUCHES THE DISK!!!) and on the edges where they touch the caliper to help stop it from vibrating and causing the squeek... 8)

eh? how does that work, Foggystorm? The relay works on a bi-metallic strip which gets hot when current flows through it as the bulbs are on... it breaks the contact as it bends which lets it cool and thus make the contact and heat up again causing the bulbs attached to flash... If a bulb on the other side has failed, then it has no part in the side which is flashing too quickly and isn't part of the problem...

are those figures at the wheels or at the flywheel? Don't forget that during the recent high temps we've been having, most Corrado G60s have lost a lot of their power due to the woefully inadequate intercooler becoming heat soaked... the results you get on one set of rollers on a hot day will be completely different from the set of results on a cold day where the car will be boosting much more efficiently... 8)

*goes off to look at the £500 golf syncro he spotted for sale the other day...*