Henny

mk2_20vt, yup, that's why I changed the (£60!!!) wiring loom to it... there's deffo 12.8V and a switched earth getting to all 4 injectors...

woah... why am I getting seriously tempted to make J-DUB 4x4 with a G60diesel engine?!? ;) :lol: Good work there fella... can't wait to see the completed work... 8)

side repeaters? have you got LED bulbs anywhere in the indicators?

problem with my car is that silly little problems seem to cost a sodding fortune to fix... :(

Lippy, if you go past Nether Alderly Mill (where I got towed home from) you may well see some broken branches lying around... ;) :lol: Keeping the faith's not the problem, I still love working on the car and love driving it when it's working, but I simply don't have the time now that I'm about to get married and working towards another promotion at work... :|

biggrim, nope, tried 3 batteries on it and the one that's normally on there is almost brand new and big enough to power a truck! :lol: It really is just not firing on cylinders 1 or 2.... to the point you can take out the spark plugs and it'll actually run quite well, but if you remove the plug lead for either 3 or 4 then it won't go... It does highlight just how well balanced it is though I suppose! :lol: m3evo, tried that too, no air leaks... Thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming... 8)

...and the bad side of that is????? Suppose it'd cause me all sorts of phonecalls from listeners being the senior engineer for the northern arm of a radio group, but, hey, if I'm not gonna get caught speeding, it's a small price to pay! ;) :lol:

yeah, but they were Brand new red tops and have only had around 20K miles of use... :| What I can't understand is why 2 injectors would go down at the same time... :| I'll post up my findings from tonights session tomorrow, but any thoughts would be most appreciated in the mean time... 8)

it's a totally different beast... much more torque all through the range, much more power (approx 20% increase over my previous RacePowerMotorsport ported head!) and much more insane to drive! 8) Deffo worth it... 8)

:oops: Ah, I've gotten draw through and blow through mixed up... :oops:

OK, so I've known that my fuel pump has been weak for a while and have had a replacement one in the boot of my car for a couple of weeks while waiting for time to swap it over... :oops: Anyway, 2 sundays ago I was driving home from work, sat at about 40mph in 5th when the engine starts mis-firing... "ah bugger, there goes the fuel pump" thinks I... :roll: So I pull over into a lay-by and the car's idling, but sounding like a sack of....... Popped the bonnet and pulled off plug lead number 1... no difference, so it's not firing on one... put the lead back on and try lead 2... same again, no difference... :huh: So I try 3 and then 4 and she almost dies when I get those ones off... "Hummm" thinks I, so I pull off 1 AND 2 at the same time to find that this makes no difference to the mis-fire and that she's still running like the same sack of.... So I've lost BOTH cylinders 1 AND 2... :? :crazyeyes: So, the Very Very nice man from the AA comes out, check spark on all 4 cylinders and there's a nice bright spark. Checks compression and it's identical on all 4 cylinders, although he reckons it's a little low for a modern engine (yeah, it's forced induction you muppet, of course it's a little low... :roll: ) it IS identical... One tow home later I replace dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads and plugs to find that she fires up perfectly and runs on all 4 cylinders.... ...for about 5 seconds and then drops to running on 3 and 4 only... :( OK, so I change the fuel pump and fuel filter and..... no difference... :? So, at this time, I know it's got a spark at the right time on all 4 cylinders, I know the fuel delivery is OK to the FPR and I know the ECU is telling the injectors to fire as it's running on 3&4 quite sweetly when you consider that it's not firing on 1&2! So, I decided to have a look at the wiring to the injectors and "hey presto" the wiring loom's fooked and very nasty looking... :oops: Another £60 at VAG later and I've got THE last injector wiring loom for a G60 engine that VW has (and, from the sounds of things, will ever have! ) so a couple of nights ago I fitted that thinking it's gonna solve my problem.... It didn't... :( Anyone else got any ideas? I'm stumped... Tonight I'm gonna take the injectors out and swap 'em around to see if that changes which cylinders aren't firing, but if that doesn't sort it, I have no fecking clue what it could be... The weird thing is that when you start the car after it's been stood for a while, it fires up happily and runs sweetly for around 5 or 6 seconds and THEN looses 1&2, so I can't think it's mechanical... There's no knocks, bangs, rattles etc, it just isn't running on cylinders 1&2... :?

I'll post up a thread to pick all of your brains, but I'm starting to think that it's blown another head gasket which means that the block will be scrap this time... :( clicky for dead car thread

RFID blocking? Easy! Get a sparkplug, hook up a dizzy with no supressor to it, link the two to power and an electric motor to spin the dizzy quickly and... Voila! No radio reception in a 20 to 30 yard range therefore the RFID won't work... ;)

yeah, that's the latest graph... just wish the f*#@ing thing would keep running for more that 10 days between going wrong... Been seriously considering throwing in the towel recently and selling her on(keeping J-DUB as my project) and buying something cheaper to run... :(

nope... That'd look like THIS

nope, each side light has a seperate fuse.

_leon_, it wasn't that it couldn't draw in enough air, it's that it appears to have been using all of the air that the supercharger could get to it... (Ie boost dropped to zero on the boost gauge being used at the time towards redline while being mapped...) The head is, indeed, one of Darren's big valve CNC jobbies that's then also been tape polished to get the absolute most out of it... I've since chatted to some people and realised that there were some other factors involved in that reading that probably make it a false reading, although it definately was getting close to using all of the boost that my aging supercharge was giving it... 8)

I made a Lupo GTI style one for J-DUB years ago... Have a look in the members gallery for it... I got a plate welded in for H-YYU and had it all smoothed out which looks soooo much better IMHO... 8)

did someone say BARCODES? ;) The key is going to be adding in lots of tiny IR LEDs into your numberplates/ hi-power downwards pointing IR LEDs into the bumpers so that electronic cameras/catseye cameras can't see your numberplates/car... Not illegal (had a solicitor look into this!), not dodgy, not expensive, and will stop any camera with a CCD in it from seeing your numberplates/car... Gatsos will still get you, but Roadangels are cheap! ;) :lol:

The G-werks CNC, BIG VALVE, tape polished head flows more than the eurospec, TSR big valve, Jabba big valve, Racepower big valve or a standard 16V KR head... No head can offer a perfect flow, (the fact it has to go in and out of the cylinders to burn screws that up!!!!) but the full G-werks CNC, big valve, tape polished head is pretty much as far as you can take a standard 8V head without getting into the extremes such as oval valve stems etc which CNC Heads have experimented with and found upto an extra 5low!!! :crazyeyes: G-werks offer several versions of the CNC head and they all flow very well, with the full monty one like I have on H-YYU being the best (obviously!!!) As such, some flow better and some flow not quite as well as other competitors heads... It's all a question of cost and how extreme you want to go... 8) The best thing about the G-werks CNC head is that you KNOW exactly how the head is going to flow before you get one as they're all CNC machined and therefore they're all identical. You'd be hard pressed to get flow details/graphs out of pretty much any other head supplier as most of them are either done by hand, or at most, done to a pattern, not on a CNC mill/lathe to get them to the level of repeatability and flow that the guys up at CNC Heads have managed... 8)

:iamwithstupid: The man above, he talks sense... ;) 8)

ow... that's gonna leave a bruise...

I'm guessing this is a Valver? either way, the clutch doesn't have a cable, it's hydraulic (like your brakes) so it sounds like your slave cylinder has failed - they're not expensive and not difficult to fit, just a little fiddly... As for oil on the plug, do you mean on the top of the plug, just on the threads or on the actual tip of the plug where the spark is made?

if it's a draw-through turbo, the turbo can still be anywhere in the enginebay (preferably as close to the exhaust outlet of the head as possible to reduce lag) and the pipework for the carb feed just comes from there as normal. The idea of a draw-through turbo (or supercharger for that matter) is that they allow air to be pulled through them when they aren't making positive boost pressure so the engine can be normally aspirated until the charger spins up to make boost... You HAVE to use a proper sealed carb specc'd for turbo use though, else it'll just leak the charge from around the spindles when under pressure from the turbo and not run properly...

g60bv, yup, that's identical to the one I've got for H-YYU... 8)