Henny

OK, anyone know where you can get one of these phenolic spacers for a G60 engine? Kinda been after one for a while after reading a document about them and keep on banging my head against walls trying to get hold of one... :|

ah, that's JUST the switch part... you may also need the big bit which it clips into which is the bit I also broke and makes it up to around £25... ;) :oops:

here's a pic of H-YYU BEFORE her respray...

check your engine mounts... could be a combination of several mounts having let go letting the engine throw itself around in the engine bay... also check your wishbone and steering rack bushes and top mounts.... if they're shot, they could cause this kind of sensation... :|

Gwent VW or Venom motorsport are probably the two usual suspects for stuff like this... 8)

there's a company selling digital display boost gauges on Ebay... I just got one and have dismantled it as I'm going to be fitting it in a slightly different way from the 52mm round mounting they intend you to use! :lol: you could buy one of these, butcher it a little and fit the LED display into a dash blank if you had time and a bit of patience... 8) Ooooh... LINKY!

g60greeny, Audi A6 (although it may be too big!), Citroen XM 2.1 TD, Ford RS 500, Isuzu NPR Diesel Large , Volvo XC 70, VW Golf II G60, and VW Golf II Rallye G60 all look to have a good size to them, they've all got the inlet and outlet on opposite sides to make pipework easier, they all look to have decent sized inlet and outlet pipes which seem to point in the right kind of directions that you'll need to be able to make up the pipework to fit them and are all reasonably common so shouldn't cost the world to get hold of... Of course, these are all my opinion based on the info on that site, and would all need some carefull measuring to confirm if they're possible/practicle to fit or not... 8)

new switch is about £25 from VAG... broke mine installing the gearbox into H-YYU :oops:

if it's showing --- on either temp setting on the MFA (oil temp or outside temp) then the wire to the sensor is disconnected/broken or the sensor is broken/missing.... 6mpg sounds like either a faulty vacuum sensor on the back of the clocks, or a slight leak on one of the vacuum lines (probably the one to the clocks)

it's a cable tray to stop the ABS cables from snagging on the back of the disk... 8)

seeing as this is a false call, I'll lock this one up... 8)

dealer... they're a funny wattage and if you don't get exactly the right one, it'll either be WAY too bright or WAY too dim... ;)

no, only the blue/white should be disconnected... the other should go onto your oil pressure switch

wonder if I'll be able to swing one as my company car by then?!? If it's in RX8 territory then I should be able to! 8) 8) 8)

Yup... what Olly says is true... it's a spare, probably for the optional oil pressure gauge, but no-one's ever confirmed that... 8)

you need to take the instrument cluster out to replace it as it's on the back of it... not too dificult.... should take about an hour to remove, change and re-fit... :)

kev? buy a door switch from Halfords and add it to the boot so you can have a light.... probably easier than messing with the original POS... ;) :lol:

I'll agree to disagree about the OEM stuff... you can hardly call my 1940cc G60 engine OEM and it REALLY likes the Golf G60 intercooler that's on there...

ba-dum-tish... :roll: :lol: Kev? it's internal to the mechanism IIRC... :(

flusted, from a late MKII Golf? I tried that ('cos I had some on my Driver going "spare" ;) ) and they were different from the ones on my 'rados... :|

Shaggsy, If it gets wet, the intercooler gets MORE efficient! 8) It's just the same as the radiator on your car, only it cools the AIR going into the engine, not the coolant going around the coolant system on your engine...

aposegil, not entirely true matey... There's 2 (genuine and none-chav) reasons to add bonnet vents to a car, and it's all to do with where they're placed and how they're designed as to which reason they're there for... 1) To draw IN cold air to a specific part of the engine bay - for example a forwards facing vent over a cone filter or over the back of the engine bay to draw air down over a hot turbo and exhaust system when the car is moving. 2) To draw hot air OUT of the engine bay - for example a backwards facing vent to draw heat off a large turbo/exhaust system Both have very specific design characteristics to make them work properly, efficiently and not just get screw up the normal enginebay thermal and air flows... The way the Golf and Rallye intercooler works is that it sits directly in front of the existing radiator (which is obviously getting enough air to cool your car down preventing melt down - if you don't believe me, put a sheet of tinfoil over the front of your radiator and drive around for 10 minutes! :onfire: ) The intercooler is designed to only slightly reduce the airflow back to the radiator and seeing that the intercooler temperature should never be anywhere near hot enough to HEAT the radiator up any, only a VERY slight increase in radiator temperature results from fitting the intercooler there. You also benefit from having not altered the aerodynamics of the car, or changed the airflow and thermal flow through the engine bay. The dubsport 20V is an exception to the norm. It's got an engine which really shouldn't fit into an engine bay that small fitted which is making BIG power and therefore generating a LOT of heat. Dubsport found that on IDLE the heat built up so quickly that they needed a way of venting it upwards, (with heat rising and all that) hence why the back of the bonnet is lifted... this does practically nothing to alter the way the air flows through the engine bay when the car is driving, but makes a HUGE difference when the car is sat around with the engine running...

The Golf one on my G60 when I ran it at Brunters in J-DUB was positively COLD to the touch (uncomfortably so!) after a couple of laps of the track and 2x 140mph runs down the straight... Now that it's in H-YYU with a standard bumper rather than the RS4 bumper I ran on J-DUB at the time, there's no temp increase at the throttle body (had an inlet thermometer installed as I switched between the 2 bumpers) Don't forget, the Golf G60 one is based on the Rallye core, just with better end caps, and that was designed to be used in the Golf Rallye during competitions across deserts and the like... The Golf Rallye hasn't got that much more front end venting than the Corrado so inlet temps are always nice and cold when using this intercooler... VW spent a LOT of money and time researching and developing the Golf and Rallye intercoolers... it's not just a design someone welded up in a backstreet garage to fit into the space! :lol: The Forge ones are also very good (as are the Allard ones) as the companies are set up specifically to make intercoolers, I just question if they're actually any better than a genuine VW Golf G60 or Rallye one from a flow, efficiency and fitment point of view... :)

slightly different fitment Daz... The 'Rado ones are also a slightly different shape...

dazzyvr6, yeah, I was thinking the same mate... try that with a pug or a shitroen and see what's left after one hit... :|