Henny

yay! my vote yesterday knocked the Corrado into the most sub-zero position! 8)

yeah, the engineering firm I use have this completely over the top attitude which results in anything they do being as near to perfection as they can possibly get it... hence why I'm happy to pay for their services! :lol: They're not the cheapest place around, but they're happy to do the silly little jobs and fabrication that I need doing for cash and at bugger all notice... 8) The scales they have does 0.5g increments and the pistons all read the same weight when weighed individually, although when all 4 were on at the same time, it went up to 0.5g over what the combined weight should have been when you added up their individual weights... I suppose that technically, theres potentially more than 0.5g between the heaviest and lightest when you work it mathmatically, but I can't be arsed to work out the standard deviation and all that crap, I just know that they've as close as they're gonna get! ;) :lol:

they're often used in 2.0 G60 conversions, so they're not particularly weak... ;)

if it's from a golf 16V then yes, it's the same (it's the same KR engine)... if it's an 8V golf, then I'm pretty certain that it's not the same as a 1990 will be digifant and so have a completely different ISV from the valver lump... I could be wrong on this, as it's from memory and it's a few years since I had either a valver or a MKII GTI 8V.... :|

on the 4 cylinder cars, the front radiator support, both front subframes and engine mounts are common to Golf MKII as well... other than that, the body panels are Corrado only...

there's over 100 on the other thread wanting these.... ;)

yeah, it's interesting to read about the oil squirters and the other little bits you've done to make the whole project work and why you've done them.... 8) If you got the pistons to within a couple of grams, then that's pretty good for a home-brew jobbie and I'd reckon will probably still be smoother than factory... 8) Mine were kinda done over the top when I got them machined to clear the oil squirters as the engineering shop who did it specialise in model diesel engines and aeroplane parts so there's under 0.5 grams difference across all 4 pistons! :crazyeyes: :lol:

NVmyVW, yup...

ZippyVR6, dunno, I just got advised by my mums mate not to do it 'cos she'd fail me! :lol: :oops: If you're serious about it, give 'em a ring and see what they say... you'll probably find that you're tied in to a contract with them for a few years after you pass the test so they can get their moneys worth out of you, but after that, you can go free-lance and set up your own company which is where the good money comes in... 8) Good luck with it anyway... 8)

stevemac, that's not entirely true mate... Blue-printing isn't just weight matching... it involves making sure that all of the ports (be they air, water or oil ways) are the correct sizes and are clear of any casting marks as well as making sure that all parts are identical in weight and being dynamically balanced... this DOES improve power as well as making the engine smoother as it allows the engine to be as efficient as possible... simply blue-printing and balancing an engine can improve a standard engines power output by upto 10% ! :crazyeyes:

chrishill, kind of, only somewhat more difficult with an instructor pretending to be a learner, and a couple more questions... ;) I considered it myself a few years ago, and then realised that I'm not exactly a highway code following kind of driver and that there's probably no way I'd pass the test! :lol:

G60-R, head liner's not too difficult in a passat estate. as people have said above, remove the A B and C pillar plastic trims and the trim over the rear hatch then take the headliner out of the rear door (actually easier than in a Corrado!) If you get down to Halfords, you can buy a heated rear window repair pen... it's basically a permanent marker which conducts electricity... you'll need to steam up the rear window and put the rear heated screen on to see which bars aren't working... you then need to find where the non-working bars are scratched and repair them with the pen... They come with instructions, and if you're VERY careful you can do a VERY neat and practically invisible repair to the elements... 8)

you need a new cable mate... the hook on the end is bonded on and if it's come off the cable's fooked... Also make sure you buy a new rubber grommet for the pedal. It's the rubber bit that the hook goes through which is attached to the pedals pivot... if it's worn (which it will be) then the hook will keep on popping out of the pivot leaving you with no accelerator pedal again... ;)

it's a star drive headed screw... you can get them from Halfords for about £2 each as a 1/4" drive socket, or buy a complete star drive allen key style set for about £15... 8)

dutch, I know mate, don't fret, I didn't take it the wrong way... I was basically getting at the same point that Dr_mat managed to make in a much better way :oops: The Corrado has a fantastic "feel" for the driver... update the suspension and you're back on a par with most modern day cars of a similar class... I know that's no longer stock Vs stock, but 14 year old suspension Vs brand new ain't exactly fair either... ;) Take the cost of a new car (or even just a chunk of that) and throw it into buying and modernising a Corrado and you've got something a little special 8)(hence why I drive what I drive! ;) :lol: )

...it's seriously not easy to pass the driving instructors course... a LOT of people think they can do it, but it's suprising how difficult it actually is to get fully qualified... My mum's best friend is now an instructors instructor and has recently had to fail one of her friends who's been driving for over 25 years with no accidents of convictions... IIRC you only get 2 chances to pass the test, so, if you do go for it, make sure you're utterly committed and you LISTEN to what the instructor tells you and learn from it, else you could find yourself out of pocket... Also, have a look around your area in the phone book and see how many driving instructors there are... it's quite a competetive area to work in, and you'll find yourself having to work very long hours...

dutch, mine's not exactly stock... ;) I know what you're saying though... suspension and chassis technologies have progressed massively in the last few years, so the 20 year old design of the Corrado chassis is starting to show it's age unless you spend some decent money on it... They still handle VERY well compared with most cars though and it's still one hell of a blast blatting around a track in a Corrado regardless of its age... 8)

Sympathies to you Chris... I had my first Corrado do this on my parents driveway... down the drive, through a wheely bin, through a fence, over the road and up the drive opposite, then rolled back down their drive and ended up in the middle of the road with the alarm going... :| :crazyeyes: Again, mine was the victim of handbrake failure due to naff calipers which had heated the rear disks on my journey home and then let go when they cooled down and contracted back to their normal width... :roll: Hope it all gets sorted out with the minimum of pain and expense... 8)

good to hear Paul... It's nice when you finally realise that there's a simple easy way around any problems and that all the work you've put in hasn't been wasted... Can't wait to see you and your car at some of the tracks next year... 8)

I've done Santa Pod a few times and been to Curborough and Bruntingthorpe as well... I was planning on doing a few more track days this year, but with having J-DUB written off this time last year and getting engaged this year, things didn't come together in time to make it happen... I should be taking H-YYU around a couple of tracks next year if I can get the cash together for a decent suspension setup to make her handle a bit better... I dunno how quick the 1940cc engine is on a 1/4 mile as she was a tooth off on the cam when I ran it in J-DUB and had a dead lambda in H-YYU so was running rich as hell... :( Roll on next year when she'll be fettled and treated properly again - thrashed to within an inch of her life regularly! :twisted: :lol: That's what I built the engine for at the end of the day... 8)

You may wish to give these guys a ring... Trent Developments 552 Hartshill Road Hartshill Stoke-on-Trent Staffs ST4 6AF 01782 638327 Great for Carpets, Carpet sets, Sound Insulation, Vinyls and Headliners, Adhesives. - Recommended by a mate of mine who builds quite a few kit cars... 8) Can't hurt to call 'em and see what they sell... ;)

which engine?

I can't see how a cambelt can affect a water pump... they're not connected at all... the only thing that you have to do anywhere near the waterpump is to remove its drive belt to take the cambelt off... :?

Yandards, it'll be a fecking mile out mate... the bonnet frame is completely different between the 2 versions...

I'd have the toe-rag too... the Jetta's very good too though. 8)