corrado9a

hi all I have been searching for a couple days information regarding swapping the gearbox from a VR5 engine into my VR6. The problem is I haven't even found information regarding the box type,let alone ratios, Does it require a new gearbox mount, custom transmisions etc... I don´t know if anyone here has made the swap, but if you can share any info it would be very very welcomed. thanks

yes, i am using it and I am extremely happy with it. Used it for over a year and not the slightest issue or complaint Keep in mind though that this kit reduces the side movement only. I am also using a neuspeed short shifter that reduces the front/back throw and both together makes a night and day difference. It is slightly heavier to shift but precision is perfect, and throw is minimal, although the gear speed change is now limited by the box it self, synchros meshing and all.

an now greetings from Spain :) i lived in SD for 6 yrs, great place to live and even better to own a vw, lots of parts and great prices, combined with the best weather and great roads around. I will be in SD next month visiting some friends it really feels like a 2nd home to me. enjoy the corrado ownership and living with a G ladder

great to read that. I will try hopefully this summer, but seriously for the price of a flight with Easy jet or RyanAir it can even be cheaper for me to just buy you a ticket than to put gas in the car for the weekend. carefull what you offer as you may have to back it up... :) Cheers

Hi guys I am looking for the installation manual for the installation of a stage 2 kit. i want some light on the braketry and the plumbing, in pff, Jpeg or any electronic format thanks a million in advance BR

I have heard that story about ABFs as well but i have seen many many ABFs swapped (fully with electronics) and none of them made over the standard 150hp

if you have a fitment guide would be very usefull for me as well. Can you pdf it? thanks a million

Hi mathew yes, classic heater core matrix split. If carlos can not provide the U-bend you can probably source something workable from your local "ferreteria". i would be sure that you can find plumbing bends in the correct size. good luck

I have one in use and i love it, but bear in mind that it reduces the side to side kit not the throw movement.

what little i can add about the seller I have bought from him the lip and a scuttle panel. The parts where perfectly boxed, arrived on time through USPS guaranteed international in perfect condition and quickly and dealing with Dogger was one of the easiest ways to spend my money and not worry at all. Top guy, great product and a great seller. In my list of top shops to buy from.

for a daily driver i got myself a red washing machine, ups i mean a 3 cylinder Toyota Aygo. average fuel consumption in the city is 5L and afer that, driving the Corrado feels like a rocket. That also gives me time to save money and use it on prepping the car for the SC. My view is get a daily as cheap, safe and durable as possible and then forget the days when you get pissed at the corrado for all its faults or age problems.

Yo dont need the Throttle Body. All you need is the complete manifold (with the flap and actuator working), the control unit, the solenoid valve, the vacuum tank and the vacuum lines. A nice to have bit but not included in the kit although sometimes included in some 2nd hand sales is the chip programed for the manifold fueling. enjoy

yes, some friends and me saw that car few months ago, we then the guy saw my car and decided he did not wanted to sell and seems like it is back on sale again. I may even have someone interested. shall see... car is real good with minor points.

i forgot this thread for a couple days and missed all the action. :) Is good news to know that it was the oil cooler aka heat exchanger. It is very common to find they are broken. My car turned oil cooled after a track session once. Its has taken ages to fully clean the watter passages... I think you owe me a beer now... by the way: " There is a British mechanic used by the club here in Spain just 20 miles from here and he specializes in head gaskets so thats where i will be going in the New Year...." who are you talking about.

Hi Mathew i dont know from which stealer you got that quottation but , take the car and run the other way, FAST. Usual VW quotes for this job are about 1300-to 1500 euros, and local shops can do that even cheaper. Nevertheless, I highly doubt that a HG would leave a pool of coolant over the garage floor, not even if you left the car parked runing the nuts off it for a loooong time. With the engine runing for little time to get in or out i dont see how a HG would pool coolant. I concur with check the crack pipe, the thermostat housing, with the little hose, and also the oil heat exchanger. If this last part is cracked it will pour oil because it runs higher pressure, in the watter and thus the mayo in the water water bottle. I can even bet you 20 euros for it :)

It could also be something as simple as a bad plug wire, old distribuitor or faulty coilpack, if you get a radom missfire, then the unburned fuel would be noticed by the lambda sensor.

my problem got solved when i rolling roaded the car and got a new map. It still comes up every now and then but that is related to a small hiccup that teh car has at 1200 rpm every now and then Your problem coud be related to using your old gaskets where you have an air intake leak after the MAF and that couses the mixture to go lean and then adjust and then go crazy because it can not adjust well.

I have been using the Neuspeed short shifter for over 3 yrs now. It is a whole assembly brand new (like the one on the picture) that reduces the throw almost 50%. The shifts are still perfect, although the speed of the shift is always limited by the time the synchros engage. By definition the shifting will be a little harder than stock but still far from hard. All shifters that move the pivot point to shorten the throw will be a little harder to move, and will reduce the throw whatever amount, but will not reduce the side to side movement. For that matter I installed a part from Gruvenparts that does just that, and both toguether go from great to perfect. In my opnion is one on the best 3 things of my car. You must remember though to align the cables after loosing them and using or doing it with the correct vag tool (i took it to a a dealer) to do so improves on whatever we estimated to be good by trial and error by 100%. Do it well and you will never look back

Hi all I am tired of the bolt pattern adaptors i am using. I am currently wearing rh zw1 17x8 et 35. I am using a 15 and 20 mm adapters and the wheels poke out just a little bit, but enough to have rubbing and not letting me lower the car enough for my liking. Couple days ago i picked up a couple of glof gti wheel hubs to look at them and possibly redrill them to 5x112, but the ABS units i got had 3 locking bolts, and also the hub diameter left only little over a mm of material to the outter edge. i think thats unsafe so i gave them away to a friend. I decided to sell the wheels and buy a set of ch in 17x8 5x100 only to find out that they are not produced anymore and the disty here sold his last set just yesterday. i kind of remember reading a while that someone did this modification to run both bolt patterns and i was wondering how he did it. Using km5 hubs, audi 100 hubs, redrilling OE hubs ??? how about the back disc, is there enough material to redrill? its a bummer but all the wheels i like here that can come at a good price are 5x112 so i would love to be able to run both patterns. Thanks in advance for any help, that will be greatly appreciated.

i am running a 16 row thermostatic oil cooler along with the factory cooler, both at the same time. oil temps run pretty similar both in winter and summer, about 102 to 106ºC. yesterday i sepent some time giving the car some love in the mountains and with the cold mountain temps (about 8-6ºC) the oil stayed at 106 while the watter stayed around true 90º (validated with vagcom). i am running the cooler in front of the radiator so is cooling quite all right, specially now. for me there is only one thing to decide about when runing an oil cooler: keep the original oil/water cooler along with the air to water, or not; to run a thermostatic sandwitch is a must not an option.

take a good look at this headers. Spacially if you are willing to spend the money of the SS, this is an even better option. I am using them and they work fit and sound beautilfully, and the quality is second to none.

Well maybe is because most of the videos of turboed corrados or VRs for that matter are on a straight line going wild with revs in first second and only at the end of third gear is when the tires really hook up. And then cars braking down every other week... Now it will be your fault if I consider a 3rd option; travelling up to UK and visit Stealth for one of his kits...

kev, thanks for your reply. You have always come around for me with help. Initially I have not included Turbo in my plans because one of my top priorities is drivability and Turbo maybe too much for a car that lives mostly on long mountain roads and city driving. In these scenarios i rather put all my HP down on the ground than have a huge amount of torque blasting me in between corners. But is even more true that i have never driven a Turbo VR, neither a SC or R32´d car so i am baseing my decisions on opinions of people i dont know over the internet with different set ups and tastes, so i need to take that with a pinch of salt, and turbo can be as usable as the other set ups. I really hope that some more people can chime in here. Herisites had a SC and r32, many others have r32 their cars and could also help with their view, pros and cons. But i understand as well that people do not tend to critisize their mods after spending so much on them. Thanks a lot in advance.

Hi guys I have become to a crossroad and is getting hard for me to decide what way to go. In any case i will win both cases so all i want is the feedback from the people that had driven both set ups, pros and cons and what they think is best at the end of the day. I have a ABV engine with schrick goodies, 268 and intake, metal HG, Metalwerks exaust manifold, 2.5 inches TT cat and back and i just got an OBD set up to transplant to my car in preparation for a VFE stage 3 (from a Golf, 10.5 PSI?) that is been sitting in my house for the last 2 yrs until the car was ready. Well the car was runing nice lately so thats when i decided to move onto OBD2 for the blower, when last week i blew off an oil line and spew all my oil out in the freeway. I stopped the moment the oil light came on so i thought that no harm was done. My wrong. The car is now burning oil like crazy. At this point i have two options the way i see it: 1- Buy a cheap VR6 do the transplant at home in a couple weekends. This option shall cost me about 500-800 euros that is the price of a long block here in Spain and continue with the plan. 2- Find a R32 and fund it by selling all the goodies that i allready have, (SC, Schrick Manifold, 268 cams, Exaust manifold...) and then build it over the next moths. Here i could go 6 spedd or maintain my tranny, depending on price of the complete package. One friend that has done a couple of this swaps would be doing it and me just helping, and that would be a couple K€ more. The car is my second car and i use it for week ends and some days to work so it needs to be reliable as a daily driver and foultless at driving. Otherwise i will not be happy with it. Power wise i am not that concern between 280 or 300hp. Police is really cracking down on speed here so i am more concern in the pleasure of driving a well sorted fast car. Please if you have driven both set ups, please comment what you liked best and why. Thanks a million in advance. Best regards from Spain

duuh I feel now dumb for asking this. should stop thinking so much... thanks for the reply...